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Maintenance & Repair 350Z up keep and diagnosing/fixing problems

Unusual Burning Smell

Old Mar 30, 2015 | 02:00 AM
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Default Unusual Burning Smell

Hi guys, so I bought my Z ~3 weeks ago and I've been learning manual on this car (not the brightest idea, I know). I've been having a lot of troubles with it at first, but that's expected. Lots of stalling, clutch burn smell, jerking, all things good. However, 3 weeks later today, I've gotten quite frustrated with driving because I no longer have the confidence to drive anywhere.

So I called up a friend who drives an rsx-s to practice with, hoping he could shed some light on what I'm doing wrong.

I've always thought that riding the clutch is staying on the friction point for even half a second, and it's evident because if I do that while driving, there's a strong clutch smell that's noticeable even inside the cabin. But then my friend decided to try my car, just to get the feel for where the friction point is, so he can better explain to me. Here's the problem.

He drives his car, and any other car for that matter, just like how I do. We hold the clutch at the friction point for 1/2 second while giving throttle, and release. Difference is, when I do the same thing on his car, there's no smell. Nothing. So now we're confused. Have I been mislead this entire time by some other mechanical problem that causes the smell? I've ruled out that the clutch is bad because it was replaced only ~13,000km ago. I'm planning to take it to the mechanic soon just to check up on the clutch. In the meantime though, anyone know what the hell is going on?
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 03:00 AM
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You're burning your clutch.

That smell is very distinct I have done it while learning to drive stick in My dad's car.

Hope you didn't break it to where it slips. go 35 mph in 4th gear and floor it, if the rpm shoots up but mph doesn't then it's shot.

You can ruin a brand new clutch in a couple bad driving sessions

Last edited by oldschool350z; Mar 30, 2015 at 03:02 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 07:53 AM
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Exactly what oldschool350z said.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oldschool350z
You're burning your clutch.

That smell is very distinct I have done it while learning to drive stick in My dad's car.

Hope you didn't break it to where it slips. go 35 mph in 4th gear and floor it, if the rpm shoots up but mph doesn't then it's shot.

You can ruin a brand new clutch in a couple bad driving sessions
Not sure what you mean by shoots up as going 35mph in 4th gear, I don't have much power. The rpm does steadily increase, as does my speed, if that's what you meant.

So my question is, is holding the clutch at the friction point for 1/2 - 1 second to take off a little too long? It seems my friend does the exact same, if not longer. Except his does not release the foul cancerous smell.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:31 PM
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Once you get competent with driving stick, and more so getting used to the car- You won't have to analyze the engagement point.

Ideally, you'll be able to release the clutch until you feel the engagement point (the car will very gradually start to creep forward), once there, you can start accelerating as if it were an automatic. Simply letting the clutch out the rest of the stroke at the same time as you start accelerating.

Then you won't feel this "friction overlap" you speak of. What you're describing during your "1/2 to 1 second friction period" is the engine spinning the flywheel against a clutch with only partial engagement. Effectively "burning" the pad material off- hence the smell.

Keep practicing. At first you'll feel like you have to use more throttle when releasing the clutch to keep the car from bucking/stalling, but you'll get the hang of it eventually. Just try to make it smooth with the least amount of gas as possible.

edit: Oldschool is talking about your clutch slipping in gear. If you're cruising in a high gear (say 5th @ 40mph for example) and you stab the gas, the car should slowly start accelerating. If your RPM's start shooting up faster than the car is accelerating, it's indicative of your flywheel spinning faster than the clutch can keep up with (there isn't enough pad material, or the pad material is too damaged or "glazed" for the clutch to hold onto the flywheel)- ie. Slipping clutch.

Last edited by n0smoke; Mar 30, 2015 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dSpaceman
Not sure what you mean by shoots up as going 35mph in 4th gear, I don't have much power. The rpm does steadily increase, as does my speed, if that's what you meant.

So my question is, is holding the clutch at the friction point for 1/2 - 1 second to take off a little too long? It seems my friend does the exact same, if not longer. Except his does not release the foul cancerous smell.
Are you stopping your foot at the engagement point or moving through it while applying gas? Also what n0smoke is saying be smooth and use a little gas as possible.

Last edited by rancor; Mar 30, 2015 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by n0smoke
Once you get competent with driving stick, and more so getting used to the car- You won't have to analyze the engagement point.

Ideally, you'll be able to release the clutch until you feel the engagement point (the car will very gradually start to creep forward), once there, you can start accelerating as if it were an automatic. Simply letting the clutch out the rest of the stroke at the same time as you start accelerating.

Then you won't feel this "friction overlap" you speak of. What you're describing during your "1/2 to 1 second friction period" is the engine spinning the flywheel against a clutch with only partial engagement. Effectively "burning" the pad material off- hence the smell.

Keep practicing. At first you'll feel like you have to use more throttle when releasing the clutch to keep the car from bucking/stalling, but you'll get the hang of it eventually. Just try to make it smooth with the least amount of gas as possible.

edit: Oldschool is talking about your clutch slipping in gear. If you're cruising in a high gear (say 5th @ 40mph for example) and you stab the gas, the car should slowly start accelerating. If your RPM's start shooting up faster than the car is accelerating, it's indicative of your flywheel spinning faster than the clutch can keep up with (there isn't enough pad material, or the pad material is too damaged or "glazed" for the clutch to hold onto the flywheel)- ie. Slipping clutch.
Thanks, and I'd like to think that I understand how to take off in theory. But when I try to let go of the clutch once I hit the friction point while giving throttle, the car does a very harsh jerk. Friend says it's because of too little gas, but I slip out if I put any more gas.

Originally Posted by rancor
Are you stopping your foot at the engagement point or moving through it while applying gas? Also what n0smoke is saying be smooth and use a little gas as possible.
I'm definitely pausing at the friction point. Every time I get a little more comfortable and try to play with it a bit by giving as little gas as I possibly can, or try letting the clutch out in one swift motion, I stall.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 07:06 AM
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rotten egg smell is from riding clutch. don't touch the clutch unless you about to shift. in traffic, leave extra room in front and roll forward so you don't have to stop and go and constantly ride the clutch

clutch slipping = you are in gear and hit the gas...the engine revs up fast but your mph doesn't accelerate as quickly.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by altimav8
rotten egg smell is from riding clutch. don't touch the clutch unless you about to shift. in traffic, leave extra room in front and roll forward so you don't have to stop and go and constantly ride the clutch

clutch slipping = you are in gear and hit the gas...the engine revs up fast but your mph doesn't accelerate as quickly.
This.

Never ride the clutch. you can also adjust your clutch engagement level of you feel it's too high
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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There shouldn't really be any pause the key is to be smooth and fluid. A good practice method may be to get the car moving with no gas at all. This will help you feel exactly where the engagement is just be smooth and you'll have to go slower when trying this. When you're driving normally and you are giving it gas while also working the clutch the rpms should be around something like 1.5k it does not have to be very high at all. I also notice a lot of people will go super slow up until they feel the car start to move then they just fully release it which will of course lead to stalling or bucking again just be very fluid and smooth through the entire process.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:39 PM
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The z is not the best car to learn stick on because of the high engagement.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 04:42 PM
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meh, let him burn it up... his next thread will be "help, burned up my clutch, how much will it be and what should i get"
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by travlee
meh, let him burn it up... his next thread will be "help, burned up my clutch, how much will it be and what should i get"
Or maybe he'll just sell the car to an unsuspecting owner. Oblivious to the clutch burning shenanigans of owners past.

*cough*
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dSpaceman
Thanks, and I'd like to think that I understand how to take off in theory. But when I try to let go of the clutch once I hit the friction point while giving throttle, the car does a very harsh jerk. Friend says it's because of too little gas, but I slip out if I put any more gas.



I'm definitely pausing at the friction point. Every time I get a little more comfortable and try to play with it a bit by giving as little gas as I possibly can, or try letting the clutch out in one swift motion, I stall.
You don't want to do that. Once you start lifting your clutch foot, keep lifting it gradually until the clutch is fully engaged. Holding it at the friction point in order to pick up speed is going to ruin the clutch. If you're stalling when you attempt to keep your foot moving, you're simply lifting your foot too fast or you're giving it basically no gas. The clutch release should be a slow (but not too slow that it takes more than a couple seconds to get moving from a dead stop) and continuous movement.
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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So it turns out that it was actually just me burning the clutch but good news is I'm driving without a problem now

Turns out the entire time, the problem was that I sat too close to the steering wheel. When I do that, my left leg would have to be almost at a 90 degrees angle before I hit the catching point. I moved my seat back and haven't had a problem with take off since. Granted I still use a little too much throttle at times and slip out, but that just makes me look like a douchebag trying to race the corolla beside me I'll take that over noobie manual driver any day

Thanks for your guys' input by the way. Really appreciate it
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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You should be able to get it into third using nothing but clutch (No accelerator)
Used to practice in my old VAG motors, Its delicate and knowing where the clutch bite is.
Throttle should barely be used when moving away.
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 05:31 AM
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try blipping your throttle as you release the clutch. That way your not constantly on power and you could start balancing clutch position with engine rpm.
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