difranchise

Thanks, I will try to look around a bit before I decide. Ill start by picking a size and go from there.

Also, I will heed bgoods advice and check the bushings.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Screw it, put in some aftermarket bushings. Racecar broh.

difranchise

Hey, I am all for upping the cars potential but that link was for Porsche bushings bruh

Is it worth it to put r888's on my car?? I mean, I have never even tracked it???

Sorry for busting up this thread. To continue on subject, I still feel the vibration at speeds above 77, it has not become worse though.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

What link?


And on a stock power 350z maybe. I mean you have an HR. You could make it into a really really fun car with some other bolt ons to take advantage of those tires. The right camber settings and those r888s will hook like a slick on the street. Im sure you can dead hook in 1st, and second with powershifting. If you got a tune and did some exhaust upgrades, moved the rev limiter out and threw on some gears, yeah it could work really really well. Probably would feel like a completely different car.

But, the lifespan isnt good and you'll have to store the tires indoor over the winter.

To me it's worth it... but my car is built and boosted. I think tires are the single best upgrade you can perform on almost any car. Even with stock suspension you'll see a big difference in how the car handles, much more progessive on the limit, and more grip.

That being said, r888's are really quite aggressive for a stock engine, non boosted 350z. If you really enjoy the difference then yeah it's totally worth it. To me the difference in road feel alone is worth the price (as long as i can afford them lol). But again on a stock car.... idk. Everyone of my friends who I suggested try the r888, loves them. Even though we all agree the price hurts.

I would say though, not to go ***** deep and buy some crazy tires on your first go around. I would say try an aggressive sport tire for your car first, use them up and then decide if you're willing to spend over a grand on tires. The re11a is what I suggest you start with. Its a really high performance street tire. Probably the best non R compound tire you can get. It doesnt have quite as much stick as the r888 but its quite good (a friend has them, i was impressed by his car he likes them a lot). And the sidewall isnt as stiff. But you could still definitely track the car with those tires and be totally respectable. They're going to outlast the r888's by quite a bit. Im actually probably going to try them as my next tire, simply so I dont feel like im wasting precious rubber everytime i put around town. The r888's are a race tire. They are so sticky you get rocks and twigs and all sorts of crap stuck in them on the road. Dont get me wrong, theyre amazing to drive (aside from road noise although ny exhaust droned it out completely), they just cost a lot to run.

black38

iTrader: (1)

new tire tomorrow to see if that fixes the issue.

if you want to discuss tires....make a new thread

black38

iTrader: (1)

Little update

Its not the tires (replaced with a brand new set)
Its not the suspension (new shocks)
Its not any of the brake components (new rotorsx2 and new pads)

I'm about to wreck it for the insurance...(jk but the frustration is becoming unbearable)

difranchise

I hope you find it before I find mine. It is quite frustrating.

I still wonder if axle or driveshaft??

Those two I hope not ^^^^

I still have not taken mine to a shop yet.....

Vigman

Ok I have a simple question and pardon me if I missed something....
Jack the car up in the rear. E brake OFF car in neut.
Grab the tire @12:00 and 6:00 ( top & bottom )
Try to rock the tire back N forth push IN at the top pull out at the bottom and reverse.
Repeat at 9:00 and 3:00 ( side to side )
There should be NO PLAY in the bearings.

2nd When you did rear rotors were the flanges rusty?? if yes HOW RUSTY??

ANY runout 1/64th or less will become a SERIOUS imbalance issue the further you move away from center.

Observation here is the key so if your rim & tire combo has ANY runout that's a problem..

Consider the physics... a 1/4 gram of weight static is nothing..... A 1/4 gram of weight spinning @ 80 mph and NOT running true due to inertia is POUNDS of problems. and the FASTER the WORSE. ( ask for HIGH SPEED BALANCE ) and WHILE they are balancing they should be able to see if something is not running true.. To bad your not out here I have rime & tires you could test with.

Also consider you state there is no problem with the suspension but you only state the shocks are new... That's only a SMALL part of the suspension and there are ALOT of rubber bushings in "Z" and "G"'s and most of mine were **** but VISUALLY looked OK..
Ball joints too are suspect...

Drive line U joints??


So maybe some pix of the undercarrige, suspension would be a help...

If it was me... I would replace the rear rims ( from a Z buddy that you could borrow em from ) just so you could knock things off the list...

BTW how are the motor mounts, tranny tail mount... was the car leaking oil getting rubber soaked??

Mike

Vigman

I'm assuming this car was not a salvage ??

black38

iTrader: (1)

All good points, most have been addressed.

1.i've jacked up the car and tried to shake the hell out of the wheels, no play.
2. Rear rotors were not really rusty as all. Small amount of surface rust.
3. im hesitant to get the wheels and tires balanced again...its getting expensive and stupid 5+ times now.
4. I keep seeing things about the bushings. Visually they look ok
5. I'm new to this area and can't find some real wheels to test...its annoying but what do you do.

under carriage pics will be uploaded tomorrow, i have quite a few

Vigman

1) It's not so much of A SHAKE rather trying to detect a very small amount of free play...
2) If the flange was clean and you put new rotors on, great..
3) If I remember there was an issue with th right rear on the dyno.. could you provide more detail?
4) In my G I had 3 bushings that " looked OK " but I wanted to change em out going full urethane... and the minute I removed the bolt the center sleeve dropped out on 2.. and on the 3 the bolt had rusted IN the sleve.. all the rubber was crumbling as well internally...
5) No members here in TN??? That could lend you a hand ... HMMMMM Local Craigs list to get 2 rims on the cheap or wrecking yards?.I'm suprised the tire store ( which I assume knows of this issue ) can't help you out further for no charge...

kyin

I think tranny/engine mounts were mentioned in page one somewhere but was disregarded. In my supra at about the same speed the moreI raised the rpm the more viciously the shifter **** would vibrate. It may or may not be the same issue but I don't think you should disregard the mounts.

black38

iTrader: (1)

I am leaning to it being mounts...but which one.

I dont have any real way to test it and I dont want to pay to change 5-8 mounts (engine, tranny, suspension) when I could isolate it to one mount.

I'm pretty defeated about it and is making me resent the car...o well

Vigman

Well I would do the tranny tail shaft 1st, then the top shock mounts. This would be AFTER having the runout on the driveshaft checked..
you are only allowed 1.5 mm ( .059 " ) PR-5 in shop manual "If vibration is present at high speed, inspect propeller shaft runout
first." How many miles are on the car??

black38

iTrader: (1)

85k miles on the car.

had a wierd thing happen to me today.
Highway was back up and i was doing about 20-30mph in third gear.

I felt this bouncing sensation that i wasn't imagining. would this indicate that my tranny is bouncing under my butt?

It felt like the whole car was bouncing up and down and not just the front or rear end.

I dont have the tools to do bushings.
how many hours do you think a shop should take to change the trans bushing?

black38

iTrader: (1)

So i think i found the problem



time to order some whiteline bushings unless someone like a different brand better

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i mentioned checking this 3 months ago (6/25 to be exact)

Vigman

Whoops ~

black38

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i got it up on a rack today.

None of the shops i took it to said anything about this...I specifically asked them to check these.

but yeah, dumb move on my part

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i have heard of the whitelines failing here lately, but they all seemed to be the black ones. mine were yellow. solids would be an option but it will add some noise and vibration in the back... not horrible but you can tell