mnd7775

Haven't used this site in a while so figured to get your guys' thoughts.

Some background. My Z is a daily, in Michigan, yea trust me I get looks in the winter. With that said, after replacing the window motor I've entered the "fix everything before the winter" mode. I drive quite a bit for work, but it is mostly highway. Last year I replaced my brakes (rotors and pads all the way around). When I did that I used the replacement parts from Pepboys due to money restrictions, and honestly I'm not trying to make a silk purse out my Z since it's aproaching 120k.

Project for this weekend: front driver side wheel bearing hub, pads all around (Orilley's ceramics), shims, caliper slider bolts and boots.

Reasons: I hear a grinding noise when going right on curves (left wheel under load?) So I'm hoping it's the hub. The current pads were cheapo metalics, and going to ceramics with a mentality of "when in rome". Last time I changed the breaks, the shims looked meh and one of the slider bolts in the back was rusted and locked wearing the pads diagonally. I did not replace and just sanded lubed and worked it back and forth, so I think it's time to get those taken care of.

Concerns: I don't have the means of going to new disks all the way around, and would like to think the ones I got last time shouldn't be worn. They are forming a bit of a lip on the outside so I'm worried of putting new pads on old rotors and ruining the new pads. Could that happend? Also, anyone with any experience on brake disks warranties? If it's within the time line how could I claim the warranty (this is mostly just out of curiousity)?

Wheel hub, will I have a tough time accessing the 4 bolts? I am ready to deal with breaking them since they are probably rusted shut, but will I have a tough time putting a socket on them? The tutorial barely touches on this so wanted to get some more input.

Lastly, if I get into a bind of a broken bolt and need to drill it out, what are some good techniques/ drill bits to use?

As always, thanks for reading, and thanks ahead for any input. Any little bit helps as I am a parking lot warrior and have to complete any project the same day.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

To start with, unless you are really heavy on the BRAKES, there should be no need to replace either the pads or discs after only 12 months. Second, use WD-40 or other spray breakaway lubricant before you start removing the caliper and wheel bearing bolts. Soak 'em thoroughly (overnight, preferably) and use the correct socket to un-torque them. It's tight, but you should be able to access all for bolts from the back side.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

All bolts are easily accessible with the correct tools.

Sounds like your havent isolated the problem yet. I would do that first, and get the FSM.

mnd7775

I do have the link to the fsm. As for the noise, the only other issue I can think of is the wheel rubbing, but that would mean something like the steering knuckle is bent, or some other piece in the suspension. The wheel hub is the cheapest, easiest, and fastest fix I could think of. If it doesn't fix the issue, a trip to a shop will happend.

Vigman

Before replacing the hub ... test it... Jack the car up and see if the bearing has play..
Nissan bearings are VERY VERY good and have great seals... The outside might look bad.. but if there is no play & it rotates silently & freely your issue is elsewhere. and WHAT EVER YOU DO.. do NOT buy anything other the OE bearings.. the E bay and MOST auto stores have the CHINA variety which are REALLY INFERIOR.. unless you LIKE doing the same job every 5K miles.. ( ask me how I know )......

Mike

mnd7775

So went in a few weeks ago and replaced the hub. Once the brake was removed along with the 4 bolts it was a PAIN to get the hub out. Had to hammer a small screw driver between the hub and knuckle, followed by a bigger screwdriver right next to it and do this around the whole hub, with ample amount of PB Blaster. Took me an hour but finally got it free. Once I held it in my hand and spun the old hub, you could feel the play in the bearing. I'm assuming the seal wore out and the grease escaped. I did buy 4 oem bolts to replace since the old ones were a bit stripped. As for the new hub, I did not buy oem and got one from O'Reilly auto, hopefully it lasts

Vigman

Hope O'Rilley has a LONG warranty... did it say where the bearing was made??