Hi all, this is my first post here having owned a 350Z for the past two months.

I know this issue has been discussed in a 100 other posts but can't find my symptoms described elsewere.

So driving home the ABS, Sliplight, TCS all come on at the same time. I run the Torque diagnostics app and it finds no error. I get home switch car off and next morning the lights do not come on. After about 8km of normal driving/braking the lights suddenly come on whilst I brake and stay on. If I stop and restart the car the lights stay on, if the car is left to rest for a couple of hours the lights won't come on but would appear after some time driving.

Hydraulic fuel is at max...

Any ideas?

and happy festive season to all from warm Malta :-)

 

Welcome- and it's good to hear that at least one Z33 is running around Malta. And while I'm sure English isn't your first language, you'll have to watch your usage- there is no "hydraulic fuel" in your 350Z. Hopefully, you checked your brake master cylinder and saw that it was filled to the max level with hydraulic fluid.

Both TCS and ABS are controlled through the wheel speed sensors at all four corners, so that's the logical place to start. Jack the Z up on a paved and level area before supporting it with jack stands and remove all the wheels/tires. Inspect the wheel speed sensors at each corner and make sure there is no debris or damage to any of them. The sensors themselves may have also come loose or the wiring damaged, so that's the next step to inspect. Any disruption in the signal--at any of the four corners--will disrupt the signal to the ABS computer and trigger the light.

It's important to know that your ABS system is likely inoperative when that series of warning lights are on. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Maybe one of your abs sensors is going. Keep your obd2 scan tool with you and check the code when the lights are on. Not all tools will detect abs faults.

 

Thanks for the quick reply :-) English is actually my first language lol but was writing too fast to bother checking my grammar of course I meant fluid not fuel

Happened again this afternoon. Left home without any lights on then after a couple of kms the three lights came on.

will check the ABS sensors and let you know the outcome.

 

The OBD2 scan tool I have is not finding the fault when the lights come on will jack car and check sensors to start with...

 

I had a faulty sensor in my Colorado and the abs light would come on and the brakes would go into anti lock mode for a few seconds and scare the **** out of me then the light would stay on till the truck got turned off.

I think the speed sensors on the rear of the z are connected to the rear axles.. Dont think you need to take the tires off to investigate. I could be wrong.

 

I believe that is the rear sensors

 

I've had this issue with my 07. It only happened when I was in high rpm, the crank position sensor was faulting out. It was intermittent and didn't log any fault codes thru android torque app.

 

I just changed the crank pos sensor last week. It died and the engine check light came on. I got an original unit from the local dealer, cleared the fault and all was well... till the ABS and the rest lit up.

 

Having an ABS in working order is overrated.


Moving this thread to the maintenance section.

 

Finally managed to pull the code.. C1142 - Press Sen Circuit...

Front pads seem to still have about 5mm life in them, could it be them?

 

could be, just read on an armada forum that sometimes the switch behind the pedal messes up

 

Brake pads with only 5 mm left on them should be swapped out for fresh ones. Have the rotors turned or replaced while you're at it.

 

Correct sized tires? I have slightly smaller rears (235's) and mine does exactly that.

 

C1142 is either the brake switch or the ABS actuator itself. In my experience, it's usually the actuator.

 

Brake pads swapped for new, wheel sensors checked - they look good.... so not sure what's next.

Should I go for the brake pedal switch or the sensor near the abs pump? or is there a way of knowing which is mucked up?

 

is taking it to a Nissan dealership out of the question? if you live where you say you do (had to google it) that may not be possible huh

 

Oh I can but its like calling for a sip from the holy grail to get an appointment with them, so was looking at independent mechanics... but not sure what's the next step now given it cld be the actuator or the pedal switch...

 

it just sucks throwing parts at it without knowing what the actual problem is. i wouldnt think the switch it too expensive, but like I8 said, it may be the actuator

 

Now that's funny.