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Holy starting problems batman

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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 11:47 AM
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Default Holy starting problems batman

Tried searching, nothing definitive came up so here we go:

Ok so my 03 350z is finally at the point where I can try to start it. Problem is, it just turns over and over but never fires up. I was pretty sure the problem was the immobilizer so I had Z1 do an OSIRIS reflash and eliminate it. Reinstalled the ECU, went to start it, same problem. The red security light stays on when the key is in the on position. At this point I'm kind of stuck, Ive tried both keys and the valet key with no change.

I'm not hearing the fuel pump prime. When the key is turned to the on position one of the radiator fans comes on but not the other. Checked all the fuses and they all look good. My fusible link has 2 blown fuses which I have bypassed with a bit of wire and an inline fuse, not sure if that makes a difference but I'm planning on ordering a new one anyway.

Basically I need some help from you fine folks to figure out what my problem is. If there's any additional information you need from me just ask. Im open to pretty much all suggestions, I just wanna drive this damn thing hahaha.

Thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Trap Star
Tried searching, nothing definitive came up so here we go:

Ok so my 03 350z is finally at the point where I can try to start it. Problem is, it just turns over and over but never fires up. I was pretty sure the problem was the immobilizer so I had Z1 do an OSIRIS reflash and eliminate it. Reinstalled the ECU, went to start it, same problem. The red security light stays on when the key is in the on position. At this point I'm kind of stuck, Ive tried both keys and the valet key with no change.

I'm not hearing the fuel pump prime. When the key is turned to the on position one of the radiator fans comes on but not the other. Checked all the fuses and they all look good. My fusible link has 2 blown fuses which I have bypassed with a bit of wire and an inline fuse, not sure if that makes a difference but I'm planning on ordering a new one anyway.

Basically I need some help from you fine folks to figure out what my problem is. If there's any additional information you need from me just ask. Im open to pretty much all suggestions, I just wanna drive this damn thing hahaha.

Thanks
i would start here
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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Was my guess as well. I tried switching out the relay and didnt hear anything different. The red light being lit is the most bothersome to me. From what I understand that usually means theres an ECU power or NATS problem. Nats shouldn't be an issue since the immobilizer has been eliminated but I don't know if having the immobilizer disabled causes that light to come on anyway.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Trap Star
T My fusible link has 2 blown fuses which I have bypassed with a bit of wire and an inline fuse
Pics of the rigging please

Fuel pump fuse still good? Its at the bottom of the fuses in the the set inside the battery cover.

No fuel....no run.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 12:55 PM
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Yea checked the fuel pump fuse. I'll post a pic of the ghettoness, give me like 2min.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 01:05 PM
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 02:16 PM
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Spray a little carb choke and throttle body cleaner in your throttle body and see if it wants to start up.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 03:29 PM
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Go to Nissan and get another OEM fusible link. Yes, that can cause ECU failure jury-rigging with a replacement wire and in-line fuse.

You might also want to find out why it blew in the first place.

Last edited by zakmartin; Jan 15, 2016 at 03:31 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
Go to Nissan and get another OEM fusible link. Yes, that can cause ECU failure jury-rigging with a replacement wire and in-line fuse.

You might also want to find out why it blew in the first place.
Local dealership wanted $103 for a new link. I LOL'd and left. Going to order one asap.

Thanks for the help everone, I really appreciate it. If you have any more ideas post 'em up. I'll update on progress when there is some.

Edit: I found out why it blew a while ago. Stupid mistake on my part that has been remedied.

Last edited by Trap Star; Jan 15, 2016 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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I think Z1 sells that oem fusable link for a decent price.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
I think Z1 sells that oem fusable link for a decent price.
Yea much more reasonable. If they have one in stock I'm gonna go grab it today.

Edit: fusible link should be here Monday or tuesday.

Last edited by Trap Star; Jan 16, 2016 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 12:45 PM
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Fuel pump is not coming on. Tried different relays, no difference.Thoughts?
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 01:14 PM
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Does it have power going to it? Might just need a new fuel pump... If power is going to it, if no power is getting their fuses relays ground problem
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 01:09 PM
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Ok so theres a white plug near the ecu that was apparently a bit loose. Finally got it started, hooray, then major oil puddle from the passenger side. Top of the alternator on down, any ideas?
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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VVT solenoid? There bad for leaking if gaskets not perfect. Along with valve cover gasket. Start from the top and work your way down little by little. Also check your oil filter, if it's loose or double gasketed them suckers will SPRAY (ask me how I know)
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by KJFire4Life
VVT solenoid? There bad for leaking if gaskets not perfect. Along with valve cover gasket. Start from the top and work your way down little by little. Also check your oil filter, if it's loose or double gasketed them suckers will SPRAY (ask me how I know)
And how would you know
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
And how would you know
Got a face full when i double gasketed mine by accident.....had a fellow tech start it up to check for leaks and (yeah that was my first week on the job. it was a looooooooooong week)
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