Shop snapped Compressor Rod frame stud on my Nismo :-(
So, went to a local shop to get a compressor rod replaced and they snapped the stud that is welded to the frame rail.... On my Nismo with only 58k miles.
The research I have done says I'm hella screwed. I saw a Z fever repair kit available and wanted to know if anyone can help with advice on getting it fixed and if anyone has used this Z fever repair (and yes... I googled the history of that shop)
-NT
The research I have done says I'm hella screwed. I saw a Z fever repair kit available and wanted to know if anyone can help with advice on getting it fixed and if anyone has used this Z fever repair (and yes... I googled the history of that shop)
-NT
I’ve personally seen a reweld of the rod after machining it down from a piece of steel stock. Keep it lubed up with bushing lube or lithium grease.
Seems like you have no choice but to get that from z fever. Good luck man. Let us know how it turns out.
Seems like you have no choice but to get that from z fever. Good luck man. Let us know how it turns out.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,625
Likes: 1,394
From: Aurora, Colorado
I've never faced such a repair, but my question is about the shop that caused the damage. Aren't THEY the ones who are responsible for finding a way to properly repair the compression rod frame stud?
The dishonesty comes in play when I started driving and hearing some nasty noise when braking. This shop replaced my pads while it was up on the lift, although I usually do them. It doesn't happen Everytime I brake, but sounded like something shifting and making a loud clicking noise under load. The shop said could be bad pads. Replaced them and same thing. Replaced rotors and pads, same noise comes back under load.
I lifted the car up and went through all bolts comparing it to the torque specs in the FSM. So then I go to the compressor rod. Torque spec out it at 160ish ft/lb. Using a general wrench, I started turning and noticed it was barely tight... Started spinning with just a small amount of force... Then bam. Snapped right off.
I complained and in the end, I just chose not to let this shop continue with the repair and find a better solution, especially that I track the car and want it fixed to spec.
Unfortunately, it will never be back to 100% spec. Your best bet comes from grinding it down and welding a new one up or taking your luck with that Z fever kit.
I always hate to see people fighting with shops. I'm willing to bet they would fight tooth and nail since, even though it was most likely broken upon return to you, your wrenching on it eventually snapped it.
I always hate to see people fighting with shops. I'm willing to bet they would fight tooth and nail since, even though it was most likely broken upon return to you, your wrenching on it eventually snapped it.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-problems.html
This guy just welded a bolt to the snapped rod. Not the prettiest repair, but you could get a shop to weld this better
This guy just welded a bolt to the snapped rod. Not the prettiest repair, but you could get a shop to weld this better
Wanted to update everyone,
I went to a Welding/Machine place that does a lot of commercial business. They cut a small window to expose the inner frame piece and determined that just tappering the snapped bolt on both ends and welding them back together was the best bet. Torqued it back to 150 ft/lbs and is good to go. Cost was $400.00 and done in a day.
-NT
I went to a Welding/Machine place that does a lot of commercial business. They cut a small window to expose the inner frame piece and determined that just tappering the snapped bolt on both ends and welding them back together was the best bet. Torqued it back to 150 ft/lbs and is good to go. Cost was $400.00 and done in a day.
-NT
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