On the way to church on Sunday, I accelerated then the car began to lose power, it stalled, and stared once but would not restart. Fortunately, I was just down the street from home and pulled it home with my SUV. I looked up possible causes which spoke about cam and crank sensors. I replaced both cam and the crank sensors. Same thing, turns over, tries to start but doesn’t. I even replaced my five year old battery. It’s a 2003 Performance model with 34000 miles and has been garage kept since. Bought her new. There is about 3/4 tank of fuel.

I would appreciate any help. This is my 3rd Z, 260, 300 we’re my previous ones. With the electronics this one is different. And I get no codes. Engine light didn’t come on before this happened.

 

What camshaft sensors, big box or oem?

 

Standard Blue Label which have always been reliable on other products Of theirs that I’ve used.

 

Prob some of your problem

 

The Z does not do well with aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Not sure if this is your problem or not, but I would replace with OEM and then go from there.

 

I removed the Standard cam sensors and will order OEM sensors. I read in a previous thread that Hitachi Sensors is what Nissan used. Is that correct?

 

correct, Rock Auto prob has them the cheapest

 

There have been some updated cam and crank sensors which supersede the old sensors. The new ones are:

23731-6J90D: camshaft position sensor
23731-AL61D: crankshaft position sensor

The new ones have a metal shielding whereas the old sensors are just black plastic. There are likely some other internal changes, but that's how you can tell if you get an older sensor versus one of the newer ones.

 

Does it matter whether I get the new ones or the old ones? The ones that came out are definitely the old ones.

 

The newer sensors are about $100 each from Courtesy. I have no idea on their longevity or whether they will outlast the parts that they superseded. My OEM sensors which were black plastic lasted about 100K miles before they crapped out, but it seems like yours took a dump much earlier than that.

Basically, I'm zero help in making your decision to get the new ones versus the older models. I guess I would get the newer ones? Assuming that is your problem and it's not something else...

 

I think I’m going to have a compression test done to make sure I didn’t jump a tooth or two on the timing chain. Unfortunately I won’t be able to fry this done until December when I get back from GTMO for Christmas. I reset the ECU and the Service Engine Soon light stays on and the only code should keep the car from starting.

 

Do to my schedule I had to keep my 350Z parked in the garage and go back to GTMO. When I got back on 12/21 I had it towed to a friends shop. Within an hour he called and told me it was the fuel pump. $323, parts and labor, my car was up and running. Worth it to me because I had a full tank of gas that I didn’t want to deal with and my side of the garage my Z was parked there wasn’t room to open the passenger door and get at the pump. I have AAA+ so the towing was free. My car has been garage kept since I bought her new in 2003 and only 34000 miles. My friend suggested that if the car didn’t sit as much as she does the fuel pump probably wouldn’t have failed. But I know I have good cam and crank sensors if the replacements I bought actually do fail.