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Need a second opinion, surface prepping. (head to lower intake manifold surface)
I'm currently cleaning off the surface on the heads that connect with the lower intake manifold. I'm well aware that the surfaces need to be cleaned and flat to avoid gasket failure down the road, but there's a specific section near a stud that I've been scrubbing at for the last couple of days with no change. So far I've used razor blades, scotch brite pads, and brass brushes. As far as cleaners go, I've only used parts cleaner and brake cleaner. I've been considering getting a Dremel and a brass brush wheel attachment but I've seen people on other forums opposed to the idea, so I'm conflicted there. The surface feels smooth, my finger nail isn't getting caught on anything, and the wipe downs don't leave any residue on the shop towels so I'm just looking for your guys two cents because I feel like I'm overcomplicating it. Last thing I want to do is park the car again after a couple weeks because the gasket checked out.
I'm in this mess to begin with because the knock sensor sub harness ceased function at 116K miles.
I'd suggest using a scotchbrite pad to clean up that aluminum mating surface. That may seem counterintuitive, but you need an abrasive that won't harm the soft surface, but cleans better than a solvent. Try it dry first, but you can also use a little brake clean to make the pad bite better. Make sure to clean the mating flange of the header too.
Gotcha. I Don't know if it makes a difference or not now but the scotchbrite pads I've been using are the non-scratch pads. I'll give the scotchbrite another shot, I appreciate the quick response.
For soft/sensitive aluminum mating surfaces, I use Scotch-Brite pads (gray or green or red depending on application). Brake clean evaporates too fast for heavy oxidation cleaning step. For heavy oxidation removal, I like to use WD40 or some other penetrant oil in conjunction with the Scotch-Brite, it helps to break down the oxidation. Once the heavy buildup is removed, follow-up with brake clean on the mating surface before installing gaskets.
DO NOT use a dremel or flapper wheel. At the very most I would use some wet sand paper P800 or P1000 and I would go very slowly/carefully, you don't want to create a furrow or dip in the surface. The gasket can only compensate for so much. Even a Roloc Disk meant for soft metals can be dangerous.
I appreciate your guys input. I'll definitely stay away from the power tools on this one. I'm going to pick up some medium or heavy duty green scotchbrite pads tomorrow at ACE and see if I can get my hands on some gasket remover like tuzzio has mentioned. Apparently the blue ones I've been using just don't seem to make a difference.