Having trouble figuring out the cause of these codes. 05 Base I bought with around 130k miles. Car came with the cats missing since they got stolen. Replaced the cats/O2 sensors, Y-Pipe and 3 sensors (2 camshaft and crank) since it was putting out code P0345 but decided to just change them all at once with Hitachi sensors. Started out replacing it with Hitachi CPS0008 (All plastic body) but I kept getting the same P0345 code so I bought CPS0013 (Revised metal housing) and now it's outputting P0345, P0011, P0021. If I switch back to the plastic body sensor then the P0011/P0021 codes go away and only the P0345 persist. I've tried multiple know working sensors and the P0345 just won't go away. Resistance/Ground on wiring harness connectors comes out fine. Body grounds are all good and harness grounds/holds continuity properly to ECU connector. Oil pressure seems fine. There's no real noise coming out of the engine. Clean oil and good level on fluid. Tested and cleaned both VTC solenoids. Ignition timing stays between 13-16 at idle. With the metal body sensor the intake timings read at around -16/-18 at idle on both banks. It's making me think that the chain could have possibly skipped a tooth on the crank sprocket. I do remember the previous owner saying something about the clutch getting replaced so could the flywheel be misaligned? I also have another set of cats since I suspect the ones currently on the car aren't the best if that could be a cause. Any other possibilities before I either drop the transmission/check the flywheel or check the timing chain for slack? Could it be the IPDM/ECU?

 

It could be a timing chain issue, like excessive wear/slop in the chain or if the previous owner messed with the timing case and messed something up.
Where did you source the Hitachi cam sensors? I would question them if you purchased on Amazon or Ebay (lots of counterfeits out there today).

Before digging deep into it, I would recommend biting the bullet and purchasing OEM parts from a reputable source, if the issue persists, then you may need to refresh the timing chain set.

I don't think your flywheel is misaligned, if it was your engine would run terribly rough, struggle to start, and have no power.

Good Luck!
-Icer

 

I got the sensors from RockAuto. Have tried sensors from cars that run correctly and throw no codes to no avail. The car does have a slightly long crank when starting and will only rev to about 3500-4000 RPM then cuts power. Idles fine though.

 

RockAuto is usually a safe bet. I've used them many a time. If you tested with known good OEM sensors, then I think we can safely rule that out.

If the idle is healthy, then the other symptoms (long crank and power cut) are considered normal with an active cam/crank timing issue. Have you checked/inspected the cam signal plate for any chipping or debris? Very unlikely there's a problem there, but should be ruled out. I've never personally heard of a timing chain jumping teeth on these engines, but I suppose it's possible if the engine was over-reved and the chain was already worn/stretched beyond what the tensioners can compensate for.

To test and verify 100% that the timing is off (without taking things apart), you would need a pro shop with electronic diag experience to hook up an oscilloscope and check the waveforms on the crank and cam position sensors and compare to a known good waveform. This level of testing may also show if there's a problem with the cam or crank sensor data (if they're sending accurate/consistent data to the ECU or not). Alternatively, an experienced tech might even be able to tell what's going on simply by looking at live data (timing advance on each bank for example).


FSM Screencap for P0345 showing good waveform.


Outside of this, I'm afraid I'm out of ideas. The only other possibility I can think of is potential ECU tuning by previous owner or a bad ECU if all the wiring checks out as you say.

Good Luck!
-Icer

 

I have cleaned the signal plates and felt them through the hole the sensor goes through and they feel fine but I have yet to remove the covers and check them completely. Should do that next. Found an article that has extremely similar symptoms to mine and making me think the car jumped timing.

https://diag.net/msg/m5e3wz18w53xj756esozdnrhxa

I've never taken any car to a shop but this is the first time I've been stumped like this. If any one knows a reputable shop up here in the San Francisco Bay Area I'm open to suggestions. Only really know Z Car Garage for working on Z's up here.

 

That's a good read, solid troubleshooting methodology. But as stated in the writer's log, a previous owner replaced the water pump trying to fix an overheat issue and by doing so threw off the timing (last thing that should be checked/replaced btw). There were obvious signs someone had been in there with the missing bolts, and fresh RTV around the timing cover. It's very rare to see a VQ35DE jump timing on it's own, if it's out of time, it's usually because of human error. This is another good example of why it's important to replace all the sensors at the same time (2xCAM + 1xCrank), as the owner only replaced one CAM (bank2) sensor while the other (bank1) was faulty.

I just don't want to see you rip apart the timing cover to find everything looks correct.

Outside of ZCG, I don't know any other Z specialists in the Bay Area. I also know ZCG is very selective about working on 350Zs these days (since so many have become clapped out basket cases). It's very difficult to find an independent shop who can do advanced diagnostics like this. Many places today just fire the parts canon without root cause analysis. I rarely throw in the towel when troubleshooting a vehicle myself, but I also don't have an oscilloscope for this type of diagnostic.

Since you're around 130k mi, a full timing kit refresh and water pump wouldn't be a stretch. Usually 150k mi is the recommended interval if you want to keep the car in tip-top condition.
Cheers!
-Icer