How to reset the ECU ?
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I just installed a JWT Pop Charger and wanted to reset my ECU because I hear that's a good thing to do.
I went to this link to look up the instructions:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Is it just me, or do those instructions confuse the crap out you? I understood the first part, but then the "learning procedures" confused me becuase I don't know if i'm supposed to incorporate those into the resetting procedure or what.
Can someone help me!?
Also....It says when you do it correctly, your check engine light will go off. The problem here is, My check engine light isn't on in the first place!
Hope someone can clear this up for me so I can do the reset.
I went to this link to look up the instructions:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Is it just me, or do those instructions confuse the crap out you? I understood the first part, but then the "learning procedures" confused me becuase I don't know if i'm supposed to incorporate those into the resetting procedure or what.
Can someone help me!?
Also....It says when you do it correctly, your check engine light will go off. The problem here is, My check engine light isn't on in the first place!
Hope someone can clear this up for me so I can do the reset.
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lol, I'd never seen that. Looks like a good way to flood your engine.
Just think of the learning instructions as "callibration" instructions. You want to tell the car, where the pedal is going to be, when you aren't pushing it, and then tell the car where the pedal is going to be, when you have it all the way depressed. Just like calibrating a joystick, you gotta tell the computer what position the joystick is in when you want it to go left....etc.
Hope this helps. Not sure if the first part will reset the ECU or not....however, they are a fairly reputable company. You would not need to do any of the "learning" procedures if all you were doing is resetting ECU.
Just think of the learning instructions as "callibration" instructions. You want to tell the car, where the pedal is going to be, when you aren't pushing it, and then tell the car where the pedal is going to be, when you have it all the way depressed. Just like calibrating a joystick, you gotta tell the computer what position the joystick is in when you want it to go left....etc.
Hope this helps. Not sure if the first part will reset the ECU or not....however, they are a fairly reputable company. You would not need to do any of the "learning" procedures if all you were doing is resetting ECU.
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I'll have to play around with it today. I though for sure all I had to do is disconnect my negative terminal on the battery. Guess it wasn't that easy :-)
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I installed a JWT Charger without resetting the ECU.
I think the resettting of the ECU was for mostly for older cars where the computers did not have as much active control over the timing and fuel delivery. The ECU would go into a learning mode after a cold boot.
I think the resettting of the ECU was for mostly for older cars where the computers did not have as much active control over the timing and fuel delivery. The ECU would go into a learning mode after a cold boot.
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Sounds good Eddie. I just wanted to get the full potential out of my JWT Charger. Have you or do you know of any one that had problems with their JWT Charger? I drive my car as a daily driver about 60miles/day minimum. I can't take any chances of anything going wrong
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did you unplug the neg terminal when installing?? I don't know if its absolutely nessecary, but most installation instructions have it as the first thing to do. ppl here on the boards say to leave it off completly for 24hrs.
shifting to neutral at a high rpm resulting in the car to die out slowly is the only problem i've seen so far.
shifting to neutral at a high rpm resulting in the car to die out slowly is the only problem i've seen so far.
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I haven't had any problems with mine. I drive mine to work occasionally 50+ miles on I-95. Speeds anywhere from 45-80MPH
and I have yet to have mine stall.
It actually has better throttle response with the POP charger.
No, I didn't disconnect the battery either.
and I have yet to have mine stall.
It actually has better throttle response with the POP charger.
No, I didn't disconnect the battery either.
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For no reason at all my car just lost a LOT of power. I reset the ECU a few minutes ago and everything is back to normal. So you may want to reset your ecu...and maybe even then drive your car hard so your ecu learns your habits
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Originally posted by Infern0
lol, I'd never seen that. Looks like a good way to flood your engine.
Just think of the learning instructions as "callibration" instructions. You want to tell the car, where the pedal is going to be, when you aren't pushing it, and then tell the car where the pedal is going to be, when you have it all the way depressed. Just like calibrating a joystick, you gotta tell the computer what position the joystick is in when you want it to go left....etc.
Hope this helps. Not sure if the first part will reset the ECU or not....however, they are a fairly reputable company. You would not need to do any of the "learning" procedures if all you were doing is resetting ECU.
lol, I'd never seen that. Looks like a good way to flood your engine.
Just think of the learning instructions as "callibration" instructions. You want to tell the car, where the pedal is going to be, when you aren't pushing it, and then tell the car where the pedal is going to be, when you have it all the way depressed. Just like calibrating a joystick, you gotta tell the computer what position the joystick is in when you want it to go left....etc.
Hope this helps. Not sure if the first part will reset the ECU or not....however, they are a fairly reputable company. You would not need to do any of the "learning" procedures if all you were doing is resetting ECU.
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I've read at this sight, that when you change the airflow into or out of the car, its a good idea to reset the ECU. Its not necessary because the computer will eventually learn the new setup. But manually resetting will speed the process. I installed dual exhaust and felt only a minor improvement in performance. When I reved my car I noticed smoke. After about 1 week (100 miles +/-) I stated to notice a significant improvement and the smoke was gone. Two days ago I installed a pop charger and man I really have smoke now. I'm going to reset the ECU this time
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Well I did it and now no more smoke. Only drove it a couple of miles, so I don't know if there was any difference in performance. One thing for sure, it did run differently.
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I've just done this with the technosquare instructions and if you follow the directions, it's cake. I suggest that you turn off the A/C, stereo, headlights, etc. before starting the procedure.
One thing the technosquare instructions fail to mention is that when the CEL starts blinking rapidly during the last step where the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, that's how you know the ECU has been successfully reset.
Then turn off the ignition for a few secs, start the car and leave the accessories off. Let it idle for at least five minutes and don't touch the accelerator. Then turn your accessories on and idle for a couple more minutes; then resume normal driving.
One thing the technosquare instructions fail to mention is that when the CEL starts blinking rapidly during the last step where the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, that's how you know the ECU has been successfully reset.
Then turn off the ignition for a few secs, start the car and leave the accessories off. Let it idle for at least five minutes and don't touch the accelerator. Then turn your accessories on and idle for a couple more minutes; then resume normal driving.
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One thing the technosquare instructions fail to mention is that when the CEL starts blinking rapidly during the last step where the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, that's how you know the ECU has been successfully reset.
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