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Picked up a used tanabe strut bar. has some scuffs but for 50 bucks i dont mind. also found a great deal on a central 20 3.9 final drive kit installed in a pumpkin so jumped on that lol. glad i held out... i was really close to ordering a new final drive, came out way better on this because now i can sell my oem diff and come out pretty much even.
Bmurray, did you pulled the rear fenders or just rolled? How many cm you cut off from the spring mount? Did you fix a toe bolts or just the camber arms, what is your rear camber now?
Bmurray, did you pulled the rear fenders or just rolled? How many cm you cut off from the spring mount? Did you fix a toe bolts or just the camber arms, what is your rear camber now?
PS. You missed my PM
My bad man!
Rear fenders are just rolled. Spring mounts have all but like half inch cut off lol. Toe bolts and camber arms are installed. Rear camber is around -1.9 but I need to get it around -1.2 when I get the chance.
Could you kindly post a picture of your rear arch, top view?
If you choose between 10.5 +20 and 10.5 +15 (your current wheels) which of them you give preference? The same question applies to the tires profile, 35 or 40?
Could you kindly post a picture of your rear arch, top view?
If you choose between 10.5 +20 and 10.5 +15 (your current wheels) which of them you give preference? The same question applies to the tires profile, 35 or 40?
I'll try and get a picture this afternoon. It's only 5mm which won't be too noticeable. However I do have 5mm spacers all around so it's +15 offset now. Id choose +15 just because it'll be a little more flush. And it all depends on what diameter wheel you choose and what width tire you want. For 18" wheels I like 255/275-40 setup. If I didn't do that then I'd have done 265/285-35 setup