I decided to plunge into the realm of FI a few months ago and have been documenting my build on another forum since then. I figured it was time I started a thread here and shared with you guys and gals what's happening with my Z.

To make a long story short, I started with a GReddy TT kit. After much thought, consideration and procrastination, I sold it. I then picked up a Vortech tuner kit instead.

So, here's a run down of the mods and photos of the installation follow.

Vortech Satin Kit
2.87 Pulley
UTEC with MAP Sensor
Deatchwerks 600CC Injectors
Walbro 255 Pump
TopSpeed Headers
TopSpeed Test Pipes
AAM Reflash
Stillen TD Exhaust (up for trade ... any takers? )
Hotchkis Springs
Hotchkis Swaybars
Stoptech Braided Lines
Axxis Ultimates Pads
Axis Hiro 19x8.5 / 19x9.5
UR Flywheel
Southbend Stage II Cluch
Braided Clutch Line
Motul Clutch Fluid
Motul Brake Fluid
Kenwood Audio Components
Infinity Speakers
CG Lock (best mod ever - not really a mod, but whatever)
JIC Carbon Strut Brace (in the mail)
Stillen Front Splitter

Probably a bunch of other misc things that I'm forgetting ...

Anyway, on with the pics:



Before any work started:


Fuel pump installation and modification ..


Bumper and hood removed.


Tapping the upper oil pan for the drain line.




Charge pipe (installed correctly :lol: ).


Some rock-n-roll from my son.

 

A few more of the SC and bracket installed.




Upper plenum removed:


Lower plenum removed:


Peeking into the intake valves:


Power steering cooler stock location:


Power steering cooler relocated:


FMIC installed:

 

3.33 on the left, 2.87 on the right ...


Oil feed line setup:


Oil return line:


A peek up at the crank and windage tray:


Deatchwerks 600CC injectors:


Yep, I'm still a ricer ...

 

And that's where I'm at until tomorrow. Things left to do ..

1. Install injectors
2. Reinstall oil pan
3. Install UTEC
4. Nut-n-bolt the car, put the rest of the misc things back on (manfold, etc)
5. Hook up the laptop and build a base map for leak down testing.
6. Tune ...
7. ????
8. Profit!!!

 

Oh yeah, anyone have tips on removing the crank pulley? I have an UR pulley on there now and need to put the stock one back on. I cannot get the bolt loose, it just spins the crank when I try.

Also, I'm assuming it's threaded normally as well (leftey loosey).

 

Looks good man, I just went through the same installations myself- i need those injectors!

I remember members saying it wasnt a good idea to use an aftermarket pulley with a supercharged car. I could be remembering wrong though.

~Dv8

 

No it isn't, it spins the SC slower ... which is why I'm putting the stock one back on. I just cannot for the life of me get the crank bolt loose!

 

Theres 2 ways to do it.

using a large breaker par and a cheater bar. Park the car and put it in gear, no ebrake. Use either 1st or reverse(gear depends on whether your breaking it loose or tq'ing it down). Break the bolt loose.

or, a bit risky but works well.

Lift the car in the air. Place a breaker bar on the but. Lower the car slightly so that the breaker bar is touching the ground and cannot rotate. The breaker bar needs to be pointing towards the driver side wheel. With the car out of gear, ebrake on, brakes applied........crank the car in slow pulses. The nut should break loose in a few attempts.

BTW, which belt layout do you have? Looks like the old style but i cannot tell. 93 inch belt?

 

Using the stock Vortech layout for now, may change that up if I get slip ...

Thanks for the tips, tried with the car in 1st and reverse, it still spins the crank. But that struck me as really odd.

 

What i meant is that there are two vortech belt layouts for the non revup motors. I have the shorter one and need to figure out belt sizing to run a smaller pulley but theres not alot of info out there on it.

Slipping clutch? doubtful. The pulley will turn a few degrees to get the slop out. If you use a large cheater bar and the pulley still rotates and the car moves/lifts then youve got bigger issues. The key hole is either messed up or the bolt was put on with some lock tite or seized into the crank.

Theres a flywheel inspection cover on the drivers side. Its pita to get to with just the car on jacks. You can take the cover off, and wedge a long bar in theres with a flat tip to prevent flywheel from rotating. That will stop the motor for sure.

 

Why the switch from the Greddy kit?

 

Here's the setup I'm running ...

http://kahn.bol.ucla.edu/stock_belt_setup.jpg

Not sure the exactly length on the belt I have for th 2.87, it's BANDO #6PK2375. Although, even once I get the stock crank pulley back on, it seems like it might be too long for some reason. Hopefully I'll figure that out today as soon as I get into the garage and start working.

 

Honestly ... I'm lazy. Doing all the work myself and I just didn't feel like pulling the motor this winter to get the TT kit installed.

 

I did the install without pulling the motor........so it can be done but is one hell of a pita.

 

Vortech is ten time easier..but Greddy is 2X more fun... its a trade off that I opted to go Vortech myself.

good luck, nice pics, pm or call if you have any questions along the way.

 

Cause he rescued me from my stock state I was in. He bestowed on me his blessings of F/I, which have delievered me brother.... Can I get an Amen?


Nice.... It's about time you put up some photos and details of your build.
Great job. if you need a hand some weekend lemme know.. Road Trip.. Your on the list to visit when the Z is outta the shop (s).....

 

Thanks man! We definately need to meet up once the cars are done. I'll shoot you a PM when I schedule my tune if you want to drop by for the fun

 

..... Road Trip!!! He he.. I'll bring my other baby and let you get a look see at it. Only one other person has seen it so far and that's GZilla... I'm bringin her outta retirement for my winter ride...

 

Quick update in pictures of what I managed to get done last night. Wife was sick all day so I didn't get a chance to get to work until after my kids went to bed.

Fuel rails & stock injectors:


Deatchwerks on the left, stock on the right:


DW's installed in the rails:


Close up of the DW:


Couple of the reassembled engine bay:

 

Its looking good.