[NSFW] Mid-A Epic Random-ness: Third Encounter
Kyle I would try and max out your current setup on the Z first. Like C5 said nothing beats seat time. For instance I maxed out my Z at summit point MAIN last year. My next step is to upgrade to coil overs and Hooiser's from springs and michelin pilot super sports. I can't drive any faster on the track without better equipment. So my next upgrades on the Z are as follows:
1. Coilovers
2. Lightening the car.
3. Motor rebuild.
4. Turbo Installation.
Another example. My IS-F has been to VIR twice. The first time I had crappy yokohama advan's (stock 225/40 and 255/35). I ran a best time of 2:30.xxx. I upgraded to Michelin Pilot Super Sports (245/35 and 265/35) and my time went down to 2:21.xxx. I've driven my car to the limit (and my instructor agreed) to where I know where I can improve. My "driver" improvements will only net me about 1-1.5 seconds. If I want more than 1.1.5 seconds I know I at least need coil overs AND/OR stickier rubber. I don't need anymore power right now as it's enough on the straights.
Bottom line is more seat time the better...and again C5 is right. If you don't know how to drive your car then someone with stock everything can definitely out do you in the corners. I've seen it happen many times. My last track day in my 350z at summit showed me that. This OLD guy in a Volkswagen JETTA (not even a 1.8T) on crappy street tires was OUT cornering me and driving me. Even though I had upgraded suspension and tires. I was giving point by's to a shytty Jetta. This was the first couple of sessions. Well towards the afternoon I was eating him up and he couldn't catch me because I put bus lengths on him in the corners and straights. This was only after I got more instruction on my car.
I'm setting up a group to go to Summit on the 13th of September. There will be a Z06, F10 BMW M5, Mustang GT, My IS-f, and my 350z. You're more than welcome to come out and see what type of driver you are and to see if you can learn how to drive a road course.
1. Coilovers
2. Lightening the car.
3. Motor rebuild.
4. Turbo Installation.
Another example. My IS-F has been to VIR twice. The first time I had crappy yokohama advan's (stock 225/40 and 255/35). I ran a best time of 2:30.xxx. I upgraded to Michelin Pilot Super Sports (245/35 and 265/35) and my time went down to 2:21.xxx. I've driven my car to the limit (and my instructor agreed) to where I know where I can improve. My "driver" improvements will only net me about 1-1.5 seconds. If I want more than 1.1.5 seconds I know I at least need coil overs AND/OR stickier rubber. I don't need anymore power right now as it's enough on the straights.
Bottom line is more seat time the better...and again C5 is right. If you don't know how to drive your car then someone with stock everything can definitely out do you in the corners. I've seen it happen many times. My last track day in my 350z at summit showed me that. This OLD guy in a Volkswagen JETTA (not even a 1.8T) on crappy street tires was OUT cornering me and driving me. Even though I had upgraded suspension and tires. I was giving point by's to a shytty Jetta. This was the first couple of sessions. Well towards the afternoon I was eating him up and he couldn't catch me because I put bus lengths on him in the corners and straights. This was only after I got more instruction on my car.
I'm setting up a group to go to Summit on the 13th of September. There will be a Z06, F10 BMW M5, Mustang GT, My IS-f, and my 350z. You're more than welcome to come out and see what type of driver you are and to see if you can learn how to drive a road course.
Last edited by bigcloud; Aug 7, 2013 at 11:49 AM.
Oh I'm going to be cheap with my motor rebuild (non built) and turbo kit (JGY). I actually don't need much power. I just want my HP/weight ratio to be similar to a 335is on a JB4 tune. I don't really need much more than that. So I want to do things on the cheap so that when/and if it blows I can do another relatively quickly. My Z is my throw away car. I need to be able to live with it crashing and losing all the mods I have on it. Even though I do have HPDE insurance. lol..
Kyle I would try and max out your current setup on the Z first. Like C5 said nothing beats seat time. For instance I maxed out my Z at summit point MAIN last year. My next step is to upgrade to coil overs and Hooiser's from springs and michelin pilot super sports. I can't drive any faster on the track without better equipment. So my next upgrades on the Z are as follows:
1. Coilovers
2. Lightening the car.
3. Motor rebuild.
4. Turbo Installation.
Another example. My IS-F has been to VIR twice. The first time I had crappy yokohama advan's (stock 225/40 and 255/35). I ran a best time of 2:30.xxx. I upgraded to Michelin Pilot Super Sports (245/35 and 265/35) and my time went down to 2:21.xxx. I've driven my car to the limit (and my instructor agreed) to where I know where I can improve. My "driver" improvements will only net me about 1-1.5 seconds. If I want more than 1.1.5 seconds I know I at least need coil overs AND/OR stickier rubber. I don't need anymore power right now as it's enough on the straights.
Bottom line is more seat time the better...and again C5 is right. If you don't know how to drive your car then someone with stock everything can definitely out do you in the corners. I've seen it happen many times. My last track day in my 350z at summit showed me that. This OLD guy in a Volkswagen JETTA (not even a 1.8T) on crappy street tires was OUT cornering me and driving me. Even though I had upgraded suspension and tires. I was giving point by's to a shytty Jetta. This was the first couple of sessions. Well towards the afternoon I was eating him up and he couldn't catch me because I put bus lengths on him in the corners and straights. This was only after I got more instruction on my car.
I'm setting up a group to go to Summit on the 13th of September. There will be a Z06, F10 BMW M5, Mustang GT, My IS-f, and my 350z. You're more than welcome to come out and see what type of driver you are and to see if you can learn how to drive a road course.
1. Coilovers
2. Lightening the car.
3. Motor rebuild.
4. Turbo Installation.
Another example. My IS-F has been to VIR twice. The first time I had crappy yokohama advan's (stock 225/40 and 255/35). I ran a best time of 2:30.xxx. I upgraded to Michelin Pilot Super Sports (245/35 and 265/35) and my time went down to 2:21.xxx. I've driven my car to the limit (and my instructor agreed) to where I know where I can improve. My "driver" improvements will only net me about 1-1.5 seconds. If I want more than 1.1.5 seconds I know I at least need coil overs AND/OR stickier rubber. I don't need anymore power right now as it's enough on the straights.
Bottom line is more seat time the better...and again C5 is right. If you don't know how to drive your car then someone with stock everything can definitely out do you in the corners. I've seen it happen many times. My last track day in my 350z at summit showed me that. This OLD guy in a Volkswagen JETTA (not even a 1.8T) on crappy street tires was OUT cornering me and driving me. Even though I had upgraded suspension and tires. I was giving point by's to a shytty Jetta. This was the first couple of sessions. Well towards the afternoon I was eating him up and he couldn't catch me because I put bus lengths on him in the corners and straights. This was only after I got more instruction on my car.
I'm setting up a group to go to Summit on the 13th of September. There will be a Z06, F10 BMW M5, Mustang GT, My IS-f, and my 350z. You're more than welcome to come out and see what type of driver you are and to see if you can learn how to drive a road course.
Cloud-Turbo a stock block or built block for road course use?? Hahaha you may as well flush money down the toilet you won't keep the car in one piece. Anyone that drives hard, like what you claim to do will have catastrophic issues. Mark my words you will regret going the FI route for what you are doing.
Cloud-Turbo a stock block or built block for road course use?? Hahaha you may as well flush money down the toilet you won't keep the car in one piece. Anyone that drives hard, like what you claim to do will have catastrophic issues. Mark my words you will regret going the FI route for what you are doing.
I don't really want to build the car as I could use the money on the IS-F, but there is an interesting back story to this. One of the guys that rolls with us to the track days has a 2011 BMW 335is with the JB4 tune. Put's down about 370ish on E85 mix. It has great mid range torque on the straights, but it dies on the top end similar to the Z. Those turbos are very tiny. He's faster (straight line) than everyone in the group which includes several tuned RS4's with full bolt on mods...i.e. bigger exhaust, gutted cats, custom tune.
At summit last year he ate me up as his car makes significantly more power than my Z. He was a decent driver in the turns.
Now we went to VIR this year and I ate him up in my IS-F. I was a full 6-8 seconds faster around VIR than he was. He even spun out in front of me right before "oak tree" because I was gaining on him.
His car is definitely faster than my IS-F on the straights and he likes to strut his stuff that he has the fastest straight line car.
Sooooo. I know I'm a better overall driver, BUT my competitive nature will not allow me to be second fiddle in the group. So I wanted to at least boost the Z so that I can put car lengths on his tuned 335is. Plus who wouldn't mind having a boosted Z? lol.
Oh and Bert I will have to put up a vid like you did in your car showing how hard you drive (for example your shake down run where you lost 3rd).
I do drive the Z and F hard I just need more 'IN' car videos. I mainly have drivers view videos that don't really quantify how hard I'm driving...unless you look at lap times.
Last edited by bigcloud; Aug 7, 2013 at 12:24 PM.
If dealing with issues all the time and and worrying more about the car staying in one piece is worth you slaying your boy then I get it, just seems like it would be easier to buy into another platform and rape him that way.
These cars are complete and utter trash with no reliability when FI. Anyone that tells you differently doesn't know $hit or wants your money. I'd HIGHLY suggest if you go this route you really concentrate on oil cooling, and watch the coolant levels/temps. I wouldn't run more than 350whp TOPS.
These cars are complete and utter trash with no reliability when FI. Anyone that tells you differently doesn't know $hit or wants your money. I'd HIGHLY suggest if you go this route you really concentrate on oil cooling, and watch the coolant levels/temps. I wouldn't run more than 350whp TOPS.
If dealing with issues all the time and and worrying more about the car staying in one piece is worth you slaying your boy then I get it, just seems like it would be easier to buy into another platform and rape him that way.
These cars are complete and utter trash with no reliability when FI. Anyone that tells you differently doesn't know $hit or wants your money. I'd HIGHLY suggest if you go this route you really concentrate on oil cooling, and watch the coolant levels/temps. I wouldn't run more than 350whp TOPS.
These cars are complete and utter trash with no reliability when FI. Anyone that tells you differently doesn't know $hit or wants your money. I'd HIGHLY suggest if you go this route you really concentrate on oil cooling, and watch the coolant levels/temps. I wouldn't run more than 350whp TOPS.
I didn't want an STi or Evo so I looked at the following cars:
1. GT-R
2. CTS-V - Sedan
3. e90 M3 - supercharged
4. B7 RS4
5. IS-F
Before I got the F I was dead set on getting a GT-R, but I couldn't in good principle fork over $1k a month for the privilege of driving one. The CTS-V is a monster, and would easily slay my boy, but it wouldn't be fair...lol. The e90 M3 supercharged would have been fun, but the reliability of it after warranty and being supercharged scared me. The B7 RS4 like 4 of my boys have them so that's out. The only one that was more rare and was "decently" fast was the IS-F.
All in all I want a car that's "similar" in hp/weight ratio. Like you said I think I won't run more than 350whp TOPS. I just need enough power to out do him on the straights (even if it's 1 - 2 car lengths) and MURDER him in the corners.
Again thanks for the advice and I will take into account "extra" oil cooling and engine cooling as well.
We aren't as bad as 370's with WOT = watch the oil temps sky rocket but being boosted changes everything. I'd seriously run the biggest oil cooler I could fit/afford behind the reflector slots, I'd even cut that out for airflow. Oil pan/spacer to add a quart capacity if you haven't already done so as well. I assume you already handled the coolant system.
If you have a big radiator keep in mind it may not play nice with the FMIC, re-routed PS cooler or FI piping. What does your Z weigh now?
When my car made 380-390whp and was 3125lbs it had 116mph worth of trap speed, most non driving f@ggots only pull 112-113mph out of that power though. Just a referance of P/W to top end for you.
If you have a big radiator keep in mind it may not play nice with the FMIC, re-routed PS cooler or FI piping. What does your Z weigh now?
When my car made 380-390whp and was 3125lbs it had 116mph worth of trap speed, most non driving f@ggots only pull 112-113mph out of that power though. Just a referance of P/W to top end for you.
Forgot to mention for a track car I would tune it for 93 but always try and run race gas in it for a 100 octane mix. This will add in some protection against a load site or section of the map that is slightly off.
Years ago my friend took this advice on putting in 112 unleaded at the track. He ran N20. He ran 5 passes with a 100 shot and realized something was wrong when he got some slight detonation on the end of the last run (hot lapped consecutive runs too). I check his UTEC and the dumb **** never switched to the N20 map!! Ran NA timing and fuel maps and still held up. I'm 100% positive the race gas (and his colder plugs) saved his motor haha.
Years ago my friend took this advice on putting in 112 unleaded at the track. He ran N20. He ran 5 passes with a 100 shot and realized something was wrong when he got some slight detonation on the end of the last run (hot lapped consecutive runs too). I check his UTEC and the dumb **** never switched to the N20 map!! Ran NA timing and fuel maps and still held up. I'm 100% positive the race gas (and his colder plugs) saved his motor haha.
We aren't as bad as 370's with WOT = watch the oil temps sky rocket but being boosted changes everything. I'd seriously run the biggest oil cooler I could fit/afford behind the reflector slots, I'd even cut that out for airflow. Oil pan/spacer to add a quart capacity if you haven't already done so as well. I assume you already handled the coolant system.
If you have a big radiator keep in mind it may not play nice with the FMIC, re-routed PS cooler or FI piping. What does your Z weigh now?
When my car made 380-390whp and was 3125lbs it had 116mph worth of trap speed, most non driving f@ggots only pull 112-113mph out of that power though. Just a referance of P/W to top end for you.
If you have a big radiator keep in mind it may not play nice with the FMIC, re-routed PS cooler or FI piping. What does your Z weigh now?
When my car made 380-390whp and was 3125lbs it had 116mph worth of trap speed, most non driving f@ggots only pull 112-113mph out of that power though. Just a referance of P/W to top end for you.
I don't remember the exact weight of my Z last time I weighed it with me in it, but it was 33xx something. I believe. I need to get it weighed again though. That's a very good trap you had at that power level. My F trapped like 112 on shytty tires. I haven't went back with good tires.
Forgot to mention for a track car I would tune it for 93 but always try and run race gas in it for a 100 octane mix. This will add in some protection against a load site or section of the map that is slightly off.
Years ago my friend took this advice on putting in 112 unleaded at the track. He ran N20. He ran 5 passes with a 100 shot and realized something was wrong when he got some slight detonation on the end of the last run (hot lapped consecutive runs too). I check his UTEC and the dumb **** never switched to the N20 map!! Ran NA timing and fuel maps and still held up. I'm 100% positive the race gas (and his colder plugs) saved his motor haha.
Years ago my friend took this advice on putting in 112 unleaded at the track. He ran N20. He ran 5 passes with a 100 shot and realized something was wrong when he got some slight detonation on the end of the last run (hot lapped consecutive runs too). I check his UTEC and the dumb **** never switched to the N20 map!! Ran NA timing and fuel maps and still held up. I'm 100% positive the race gas (and his colder plugs) saved his motor haha.
That's crazy that your friend basically saved his motor by using 112! I would have been shytting bricks. I'm definitely taking your advice and taking every precaution. Hell you can drive my Z at Summit if you want to do a shake down run as well. Thanks a lot!!
^^^HAHA
What is everyone getting into this weekend? I have a 4 day weekend with no plans except for bushing install at hills on Friday. Anyone want to meet up somewhere and get some drinks or food? maybe bowling?
Bert you ever get signed up at Marriottsville gun range?
What is everyone getting into this weekend? I have a 4 day weekend with no plans except for bushing install at hills on Friday. Anyone want to meet up somewhere and get some drinks or food? maybe bowling?

Bert you ever get signed up at Marriottsville gun range?
I will definitely take your advice on putting in race gas at the track. The pumps are there and why not use it since it's pennies compared to help save a setup vs. how much a setup costs.
That's crazy that your friend basically saved his motor by using 112! I would have been shytting bricks. I'm definitely taking your advice and taking every precaution. Hell you can drive my Z at Summit if you want to do a shake down run as well. Thanks a lot!!
Last edited by Alberto; Aug 7, 2013 at 04:43 PM.
I joined and then never went. With ammo prices the way they are I am holding onto everything I have.
Okay so I thought about everything you guys said and I think what I should do is take Zain's and Clouds advice on keeping the BC for know and get more seat time. In the mean time save my money to purchase a better quality coilover system like the KW Club Sports or equivalent so when I'm ready to upgrade I can get into something I won't need to upgrade for a long time.
Cloud are there any events going on this month I can get involved in? I thought I saw a track day on the 16th at Summit?
Cloud are there any events going on this month I can get involved in? I thought I saw a track day on the 16th at Summit?




