Mid Ohio in two weeks....whos going form here
If you want, everyone email me your contact info:
- My350Z user name
- your real name (at least your first name)
- cell phone number
- color and model of your Z
- when are you arriving in the Mansfield area?
- what days you signed up for (Fri, Sat and/or Sun)
- and where you're staying.
I will compile everyone's info and then send it out to us all.
stevof@yahoo.com
- My350Z user name
- your real name (at least your first name)
- cell phone number
- color and model of your Z
- when are you arriving in the Mansfield area?
- what days you signed up for (Fri, Sat and/or Sun)
- and where you're staying.
I will compile everyone's info and then send it out to us all.
stevof@yahoo.com
Originally posted by brackethead
Is anyone going who doesn't have a Track w/Brembos? I have a Touring. Should I be very concerned about brake fade?
A couple of you guys said you are/going to use ATE Super Blue. Should I change my brake fluid? If so, should I do it before I leave home Thurs. night, at the track Fri morning, or maybe see how it goes on Fri and then possibly change it before sessions on Saturday?
So many questions.
Is anyone going who doesn't have a Track w/Brembos? I have a Touring. Should I be very concerned about brake fade?
A couple of you guys said you are/going to use ATE Super Blue. Should I change my brake fluid? If so, should I do it before I leave home Thurs. night, at the track Fri morning, or maybe see how it goes on Fri and then possibly change it before sessions on Saturday?
So many questions.
Based on my experience, I would strongly recommend changing the fluid before going on the track, even if it's your first time. If you can't find ATE, look for a high wet-boiling-point fluid. I think there's a 400-500-degree Castrol fluid that's readily available at most auto parts stores (search the forum for brake fluid), and it would be an improvement over the stock. Just don't get DOT 5: it's not compatible.
If you want to change it after you get to the track, I'm guessing some of us (Hedonist?) will be able to help you. I haven't done it myself yet (my mechanic did it for me), but I'd like to watch and learn. But in any case, do it before you go on the track.
I found out about the importance of brake fluid the first time I took my 944 Turbo to Summit Point. Second session, I'd done a few laps, heading into Turn 10 I hit the brakes hard and the pedal went
straight to the floor. And so did my heart.
The fluid had boiled. It was an interesting experience to say the least. I managed to save it, then I had to tiptoe around the whole track with no brakes, because I was already past pit in.
Fortunately, there were a couple of very helpful fellow Porsche owners there. I bought some ATE at the SP store and they helped me change it on the spot. BTW, the fluid we took out was brand new, standard DOT 3 I'd put in a couple of weeks earlier. It's not as though it was crappy old stuff.
I've mailed you my info. You might want to add to that list which run group each of us will be in.
I'm leaving first thing tomorrow morning, so if I can get e-mail from my hotel (you never know if the e-mail gods will be kind), I'll look forward to seeing your list.
I understand you run stock brakes and rotors. What pads do you use and how do you cool your brakes. I do 4-5 driving schools at Putnam Park and I wanted to improve my stopping power. I have change to Super Blue Fluid and was looking for other pointers.
Thanks
Thanks
We will be releasing a brake cooling kit for the Z in the future.
SS lines are a very good idea and help a ton.
With the weather looking like it is I dont think brakes temps will be a concern.
We are running PFC pads all the way around and will betesting a new compound for them this weekend.
SS lines are a very good idea and help a ton.
With the weather looking like it is I dont think brakes temps will be a concern.
We are running PFC pads all the way around and will betesting a new compound for them this weekend.
So far I've run the stock pads at two HPDEs, and they have performed well. With 4100 miles on the car, they're about half worn out: 7 to 8mm left. I've just bought a set of Ferodo DS2500s that I'll try at Mid Ohio, probably after one day on the stock pads, so I can observe the difference.
There are at least four or five options for someone like me who wants a pad that's good for street driving and occasional track days. If you want to change your pads at the track, there are even more to consider.
A primary concern is rotor wear. The list price for the Brembo rotors is over $400. If you use track pads all the time you'll kill your rotors fast (in addition to having more noise and dust).
But it's not easy trying to figure out the differences between the various pads and make a rational choice. I spent a couple of hours one afternoon last week researching and trying to decide which ones to buy.
Hedonist got a set of the new GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction that he's running this weekend. On the strength of that recommendation, I almost bought a set myself. But then I thought, why not try something different and then we can compare.
So I got the Ferodos, but not because I was positive they were the best ones for me. I could easily have gone with the Cobalt Friction, the Carbotech Panther Plus, or the Hawk HP+, although my source for the Ferodos, who also sells Hawk, said the Ferodos have a higher temperature range.
So there you go. No real answer, but I hope it helps a little.
There are at least four or five options for someone like me who wants a pad that's good for street driving and occasional track days. If you want to change your pads at the track, there are even more to consider.
A primary concern is rotor wear. The list price for the Brembo rotors is over $400. If you use track pads all the time you'll kill your rotors fast (in addition to having more noise and dust).
But it's not easy trying to figure out the differences between the various pads and make a rational choice. I spent a couple of hours one afternoon last week researching and trying to decide which ones to buy.
Hedonist got a set of the new GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction that he's running this weekend. On the strength of that recommendation, I almost bought a set myself. But then I thought, why not try something different and then we can compare.
So I got the Ferodos, but not because I was positive they were the best ones for me. I could easily have gone with the Cobalt Friction, the Carbotech Panther Plus, or the Hawk HP+, although my source for the Ferodos, who also sells Hawk, said the Ferodos have a higher temperature range.
So there you go. No real answer, but I hope it helps a little.
Have a safe drive commasense... I should see you tomorrow afternoon...
Unfortunately, the little cold I had turned into a full blown sinus infection over the night, and I feel like I was run over by a fleet of freight trains. If I feel like this tomorrow morning, I don't think I'll be ready to drive.
John, who's going to get some antibiotics now, and about to take a 2nd dose of something... perhaps I should resort to my Slavic tendencies and have a head on collision with a bottle of vodka... that should kill the infection...
Unfortunately, the little cold I had turned into a full blown sinus infection over the night, and I feel like I was run over by a fleet of freight trains. If I feel like this tomorrow morning, I don't think I'll be ready to drive.

John, who's going to get some antibiotics now, and about to take a 2nd dose of something... perhaps I should resort to my Slavic tendencies and have a head on collision with a bottle of vodka... that should kill the infection...
Found this online
Fluid boiling points DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
Motul Racing 600 585 421
Castrol SRF 590 518
Performance Friction 550 284
Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.
ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars.
Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.
Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!
Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point.
Fluid boiling points DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
Motul Racing 600 585 421
Castrol SRF 590 518
Performance Friction 550 284
Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.
ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars.
Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.
Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!
Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point.
Last edited by SunsetZ; Apr 3, 2003 at 06:01 AM.
Maybe when we're between sessions at Mid ohio this weekend, someone can explain wet/dry boiling points to me.
BMW recommends ATE? Do they use it as an OEM fluid from the factory?
When I was calling around about ATE Super Blue yesterday, someone mentioned another product called 4 Truck (spelling?). He said people prefer it b/c it doesn't need to be changed as often (???). The guy at Saybrook where I bought 2 liters of ATE had heard of 4 Truck, but didn't carry it.
BMW recommends ATE? Do they use it as an OEM fluid from the factory?
When I was calling around about ATE Super Blue yesterday, someone mentioned another product called 4 Truck (spelling?). He said people prefer it b/c it doesn't need to be changed as often (???). The guy at Saybrook where I bought 2 liters of ATE had heard of 4 Truck, but didn't carry it.
I am trying to find ATE now but can't find a list of dealers. Did you find yours at a chain? How much do I need to change mine out? I am worried about flying off one of the corners if I don't get mine changed, but don't think I will be able to get it done in time.
No, not at a chain. I went to a performance/racing shop in town. I had to call several shops before I found one that carrys ATE. It was about $13 per 1L can.
One of my favorite things about the web: online Yellow pages. Try Yahoo for [Top > Automotive > Racing > Parts] in Columbus: http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypResults.py?...82.997536&cs=4
I haven't changed mine to ATE, b/c I don't know how and I don't have enough time before I leave today after work anyway. I'm bringing my 2 cans with me. I'm hoping someone will be able to help if I really need to change it at the track, maybe after I finish Friday's sessions.
One of my favorite things about the web: online Yellow pages. Try Yahoo for [Top > Automotive > Racing > Parts] in Columbus: http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypResults.py?...82.997536&cs=4
I haven't changed mine to ATE, b/c I don't know how and I don't have enough time before I leave today after work anyway. I'm bringing my 2 cans with me. I'm hoping someone will be able to help if I really need to change it at the track, maybe after I finish Friday's sessions.
Last edited by brackethead; Apr 3, 2003 at 07:26 AM.
Another question... Keeping in mind that this is my first track day ever, should I even consider turning off the VDC? If so, when? Before my first session (prb not, right?) or maybe on day 2 if at all?
And just curious, what about you guys with more experience? Do you turn it off?
And just curious, what about you guys with more experience? Do you turn it off?
Hey guys nice meeting most of you at the track this past weekend...
Glad to see people using the car like it was meant to be used
Hopefully I'll see some of you again sometime. I'm going to be at Mid Ohio again in a few weeks at the PCA event there. Not sure if there's any space left open. I've only been away from the track for a couple days and I'm getting the itch just talking about it again.
I still haven't had time to wash the car yet and there's mud under it where I spun
oh well
Take care!!
post some pics if you've got them
Glad to see people using the car like it was meant to be used
Hopefully I'll see some of you again sometime. I'm going to be at Mid Ohio again in a few weeks at the PCA event there. Not sure if there's any space left open. I've only been away from the track for a couple days and I'm getting the itch just talking about it again.
I still haven't had time to wash the car yet and there's mud under it where I spun
oh well
Take care!!
post some pics if you've got them
It was nice metting everyone. We wanted to do a little more visiting but we where a little busy with working on the setup on the car.
Our new stuff is working very well! We where able to get dow to a 1:38.4 on the same set of tires we raced on at Daytona. The pole from last years GA Cup race was a 1;37.3. So with new tires we where there and better warmer conditions would have helped. Our tire temps where only in the 150's.
Hope to see you guys again real soon....now back to getting this thing ready.
BJ
Our new stuff is working very well! We where able to get dow to a 1:38.4 on the same set of tires we raced on at Daytona. The pole from last years GA Cup race was a 1;37.3. So with new tires we where there and better warmer conditions would have helped. Our tire temps where only in the 150's.
Hope to see you guys again real soon....now back to getting this thing ready.
BJ
What a blast! It was great to meet you all. I can't believe you guys came all the way from DC! That's one awesome track. Definitely have to go back soon.
ellisnc: you spun into the grass? Was that on Sunday? What turn? What's the story? And what's the url for the PCA at Mid Ohio (and cost)?
commasense & SunsetZ: I envy your numbers. Did you order them online? I think I'm already over putting tape on my doors after just one time.
BJ: man, you guys have a nice trailer! Glad to hear your testing went well. You gotta put in an H pipe -- that's one loud farting Z exhaust note! Hopefully we can meet up at your shop.
So who's going to BeaveRun in May? I haven't decided yet, but I'm thinking I'll be there.
ellisnc: you spun into the grass? Was that on Sunday? What turn? What's the story? And what's the url for the PCA at Mid Ohio (and cost)?
commasense & SunsetZ: I envy your numbers. Did you order them online? I think I'm already over putting tape on my doors after just one time.
BJ: man, you guys have a nice trailer! Glad to hear your testing went well. You gotta put in an H pipe -- that's one loud farting Z exhaust note! Hopefully we can meet up at your shop.
So who's going to BeaveRun in May? I haven't decided yet, but I'm thinking I'll be there.



