Don't forget to get a nice tune...with all those mods and a good tune may be close.

 

i have a 03 auto with a injen cold air cosworth manifold pulsestar pulseplugs stillen grounding kit hks DL ignition berk metallic cats and skunk2 truedual exhaust and will tune and dyno at uprev soon hope to make 285 to 290. then soon sum cosworth cams valve spings and cosworth heads and retuned should get close to 315 to the wheels but will proably need sgp torque converter and valve body upgrade.

 

for all that, pick up a powerlabs kit, run base boost for 350whp and smile.

 

If you want to go n/a it's cuz you love all motor power. In my opinion the more n/a modding you do to the vq the more wtq you lose vs whp. If you are going to spend all that money you might as well get a turbo. If you want to stick all motor I'd rather drop a titan motor in and make it a beast. Also you are probably better off getting a second engine and building it up and then swapping it in. I felt the same a year ago when I had an 03 track. I spent my money on other things and now I decided to go with an vq35hr z and I have all the n/a power I want for now.

 

oh wonderful, let's definitely turn this into another "why don't you just go turbo" thread

we didn't have enough of those already

 

people still think they can pull 300whp + out of a N/A VQ35DE without dumping a fortune into it. we are here to tell them that there are much better options.

 

different strokes for different folks as they say - neither FI nor NA are better nor worse than one another...just different.

 

oh yeah im completely agree, a low weight, high powered N/A build that can rev up to 8k would be freakin killer for the track. unfortunately most of the people starting these posts are looking to save money and get a reasonably fast street N/A car but they dont realize by the time you all the N/A upgrades including cams, its just not worth it for their desired use and wont deliver what they truly want.

 

with my setup i could still do the turbo instead of the cosworth head and cams but i still would need the torque converter and valvebody ant the only thing from my mods i couldnt keep when i went turbo is the injen cold air intake but i bought that when i first got the car in 03 so no big deal but the cosworth manifold the berk metallic cats would be great going turbo and the skunk2 exhuast not the best 4 turbo but not horrible and a 3 inch turbo isnt to much anways. And to the guys says it cost a fortune to go na , not really i did all the installs my self and looked for the best deals on the net i got the manifold for 999 new i got cats 405 stillen grounding kit 65 skunk2 exhaust 650 pulse plugs 100 intake 225 tuned on dyno at uprev 750 = 3195 this spread out over 7 years is really cheap and not to bad of a setup i could add sum stillen underdrive pulleys with belts for 280 and just cam it with jim wolf or bc cams that work with the stock springs but im scared about doing that with the 7200 redline i run with the uprev tune. z1 have any advice with that

 

WHAT^

 

I <3 N/A especially going from a de to a hr. More rpms = me cumming in my pants at 7k+rpms, the thing roars stock. I still need to put in my intakes and get a full exhaust. I say make 300whp your goal and do it, not saying it's cheaper than turbo but, that's up to you to decide not us.

 

All of the "Just go Turbo" posts seem stupid imo. How is it going to be cheaper then an N/A build? Turbo Kits are going to run you about 5-8K, a nice N/A build to get you over 300whp is not likely to hit 5K in price.

Also, don't think that you're going to just spend 5K and have the turbo kit dropped into your car and start flying down the street. If you go turbo you're also going to pay for the labor of putting it together and the ridiculous amount of upkeep to prevent your engine from blowing up. Realistically, a good Turbo is going to cost you over 10,000 dollars if you do it right and build up the engine first before putting the turbo on.

The bottom line is, if you think 10-15,000 dollars is better for someone who just wants 300WHP and can do it for under 5,000 or so, you're trippin' IMO.. Not to mention he can keep a lot of these N/A mods and decide to supercharged instead of turbo for quite cheap anyway if he wants to do FI taking him well over 300whp..

 

wow... this post is sooo bass ackwards I cant begin to correct it.

5K for 300hp

Someone please pull his head out from his @ss...

 

Put on a 50 shot of N20.

 

Your heart is in the right place, but your #'s are not even remotely close to reality

A properly executed NA setup and a single turbo, or vortech kit, are similarly priced at the end of the day. The peak power # will favor the forced induction setups, but that does not make them more fun to the owner. Those who have experienced both, executed properly, will attest to this. Those who haven't, tend to favor the FI based on the #'s. Both can be immensely fun and rewarding, and the performance either can provide is astounding.

Been said a million times - neither is better, just different.

 

very well N/A build motor can cost more then s/c and S/T setup.

 

Best deal??Where?? i got my berk HFC for 380 shipped.
You did spend lot of things that you don't even need...

 

This poor kid is soo lost its sad...

All I can suggest is that you dedicate this week to running searches on this board. Soo many things you need to learn. Specifically, the limitations of the DE motor as well as what mods do what.

It is apparent from your post that while you have good intentions, you think you know more than you do. So study up kid

 

you can get turbo cars warranties....just have to pay more monthly.

 

i think you can do it, with the rigth tune and the right computer...you also should think about shedding some weight.