300 whp with full bolt ons+cams?
03-30-2009, 04:53 PM
#41
i have a 03 auto with a injen cold air cosworth manifold pulsestar pulseplugs stillen grounding kit hks DL ignition berk metallic cats and skunk2 truedual exhaust and will tune and dyno at uprev soon hope to make 285 to 290. then soon sum cosworth cams valve spings and cosworth heads and retuned should get close to 315 to the wheels but will proably need sgp torque converter and valve body upgrade.
.......if you make 260whp through the auto with those mods I would be utterly suprised.
04-01-2009, 01:28 PM
#42
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Thanks for all the advice everyone, after weighing everything out and doing a lot of thinking ive decided that I'm just going to do a turbo build up and use the powerlab kit.
04-13-2009, 02:48 AM
#44
Your heart is in the right place, but your #'s are not even remotely close to reality
A properly executed NA setup and a single turbo, or vortech kit, are similarly priced at the end of the day. The peak power # will favor the forced induction setups, but that does not make them more fun to the owner. Those who have experienced both, executed properly, will attest to this. Those who haven't, tend to favor the FI based on the #'s. Both can be immensely fun and rewarding, and the performance either can provide is astounding.
Been said a million times - neither is better, just different.
A properly executed NA setup and a single turbo, or vortech kit, are similarly priced at the end of the day. The peak power # will favor the forced induction setups, but that does not make them more fun to the owner. Those who have experienced both, executed properly, will attest to this. Those who haven't, tend to favor the FI based on the #'s. Both can be immensely fun and rewarding, and the performance either can provide is astounding.
Been said a million times - neither is better, just different.
05-01-2009, 04:21 AM
#46
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True, but if you want the potential of a turbo or blower setup, you're still building the motor. I'm not sure if theres anything forged in a VQ35, and I'm a Nissan neophyte, but I come from building fairly big power 1.8T 20v VW/Audi motors and have personally built 4 or 5 motors that made over 500whp. If you want to make more than 40-50% more than stock power, you should be building your motor... period. High or low compression pistons from Wiseco, JE, CP, etc cost the same. Forged rods from Crower, Pauter, Eagle, whoever... all are the same. If you're doing a build, you're doing a build and the engine itself is gonna cost you the same no matter what. Add onto it the cost and complexity and tuning challenges of a forced induction setup, and you're in for doubling your budget easily. You can probably get away with a stock ECU flash on a fairly high HP n/a build, but theres no way you're gonna get an acceptably running tune for a 400+whp turbo build on a stock ECU. The managment just wasn't designed for it. It took over 10 years of stock ECU tuning on the Bosch ME7 managment on the 1.8T to get acceptable 630cc and larger injector files, and just now are the 1000cc files becoming usable on a street car. Of course, the 2.0T FSI guys are reaping the benefits of our knowledge of the ME7 system, but they still have their own limitations that are beyond the scope of this post. Luckily, whatever managment is on the Z/G's isn't as smart as the ME7 and doesn't have 150+ (yeah, 150) maps that the ECU compares to each other at any given time as a fail safe, and you can do a plug and play Standalone or piggyback programmable system.
In the end, 400+whp costs a lot of money no matter what way you go about it.
Also, not trying to be a *****, just trying to bring a different perspective while still learning about the VQ as much as I can. I have a RevUp 06 and do plan on 300whp with basic bolt ons and cams. I was told I couldn't run 13's on a bone stock 1.8T mk4, and I did it, I was told I couldn't make 250whp on the stock fuel system on a 1.8T, and I did, I was told I wouldn't run 11's on a stock block 1.8T, and I did, and I was told I couldn't run 10's on a GT3071R in a mk4 VW 1.8T, and I did. Telling people they can't do something makes them wanna do it all the more unless its totally out of the realm of possibility, which, I don't think 300whp on a bolt on n/a build is. I've seen a few 280whp with just an spacer, exhaust, and a flash. I see no reason adding a full exhaust, and a few other tricks with cams wouldn't yeild you 300whp.
In the end, 400+whp costs a lot of money no matter what way you go about it.
Also, not trying to be a *****, just trying to bring a different perspective while still learning about the VQ as much as I can. I have a RevUp 06 and do plan on 300whp with basic bolt ons and cams. I was told I couldn't run 13's on a bone stock 1.8T mk4, and I did it, I was told I couldn't make 250whp on the stock fuel system on a 1.8T, and I did, I was told I wouldn't run 11's on a stock block 1.8T, and I did, and I was told I couldn't run 10's on a GT3071R in a mk4 VW 1.8T, and I did. Telling people they can't do something makes them wanna do it all the more unless its totally out of the realm of possibility, which, I don't think 300whp on a bolt on n/a build is. I've seen a few 280whp with just an spacer, exhaust, and a flash. I see no reason adding a full exhaust, and a few other tricks with cams wouldn't yeild you 300whp.
05-17-2009, 12:24 PM
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its looking like im going to go n/a, i have a few mods and am thinking of adding the JWT S-7 cams for the revup, and 3.9 gears(not that it will add hp but im adding that too), im trying to get 300hp w/ an uprev tune. im thinking it will be around 290whp, what do you guys think
MODS:
Jim Wolf Tech Intake
APS 2.5 True Dual Exhaust
UR underdrive pulley set
Motordyne Plenum Spacer 5/16
MREV 2 Lower Manifold
Kinetix Racing highflow cats
MODS:
Jim Wolf Tech Intake
APS 2.5 True Dual Exhaust
UR underdrive pulley set
Motordyne Plenum Spacer 5/16
MREV 2 Lower Manifold
Kinetix Racing highflow cats
05-17-2009, 12:33 PM
#51
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and do you guys think a light flywheel could push me over or would i need headers as well? im not really wanting to get headers cause of the labor
on a side note, my jwt intake sits right by the last vent in my hood and when i rev the engine i can see the suction when i put a towel over the vent, would a cold air intake be worth it or do you guys think this is close enough since its sucking cold air from the hood vent?
on a side note, my jwt intake sits right by the last vent in my hood and when i rev the engine i can see the suction when i put a towel over the vent, would a cold air intake be worth it or do you guys think this is close enough since its sucking cold air from the hood vent?
Last edited by 06daytona; 05-17-2009 at 12:36 PM.
05-17-2009, 01:25 PM
#52
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the car is not going to hit 300whp with those mods, especially without proper headers
if you're not buying headers, I'd recommend you just skip those cams as well, you'll only choke them - and save yourself the money
if you're not buying headers, I'd recommend you just skip those cams as well, you'll only choke them - and save yourself the money
05-17-2009, 01:31 PM
#53
a DE being without variable exhaust cam timing limits possibilities... I'm the sad owner of a DE with cams and oh how I wish exhaust side could be tweaked 
some serious hard thought porting and thermal isolation on the intake side and cat delete (true long tune headers) with all previously mentioned mods and a quality tune "might" get you there - depending on what dyno.
One thing to remember is every machine will read different... I have dyno charts that show 294 hp and 261 trq (245 mean avg) AT sedan btw... happily its stronger than many (about all) other NA on that machine - but it really doesn’t mean anything as a number itself... neither does my best 1/4 mile ET of 14.003 (which would be 13.8 or better on many tracks in the county).
Point is, forget about the numbers. Research and build with what makes sense for your goal. It doesn’t matter what you show on the dyno as long as the gains are progressive.
some serious hard thought porting and thermal isolation on the intake side and cat delete (true long tune headers) with all previously mentioned mods and a quality tune "might" get you there - depending on what dyno.
One thing to remember is every machine will read different... I have dyno charts that show 294 hp and 261 trq (245 mean avg) AT sedan btw... happily its stronger than many (about all) other NA on that machine - but it really doesn’t mean anything as a number itself... neither does my best 1/4 mile ET of 14.003 (which would be 13.8 or better on many tracks in the county).
Point is, forget about the numbers. Research and build with what makes sense for your goal. It doesn’t matter what you show on the dyno as long as the gains are progressive.
05-17-2009, 04:45 PM
#54
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so with headers and that set up could i get 300whp? what headers you recomend?
05-17-2009, 04:54 PM
#55
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Read through this thread and all the others that involve the quest for 300 NA hp (just type 300 na hp in the search box) - you'll find that the quick and easy that you are looking for just doesn’t exist.
This is not to say 300 hp can’t be achieved - it’s just not as simple as a cookie cutter list of how to get there.
05-17-2009, 06:21 PM
#56
300 is tough....trust me. I am hoping I can get there in the summer, but have no illusions that I will get there on stock cams. All you people thinking you can go 300 easy with bolt-ons/tune need to get your mind right. Takes the right combination of parts and extensive tuning.
05-17-2009, 08:17 PM
#57
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i was aiming for a 300 whp in my 03 too and like some are saying dont even worry about numbers because one dyno is gonna say something so different from another ...
i went on a mustange dyno with intake, headers, exhuast ,clutch ,flywheel, lsd ,for my mods and i got 235whp i believe but i know better then that i can feel a good difference threw the mods i have done so just mod it and see if you like the gains you get threw bolt ons if not go with some force induction..
i went on a mustange dyno with intake, headers, exhuast ,clutch ,flywheel, lsd ,for my mods and i got 235whp i believe but i know better then that i can feel a good difference threw the mods i have done so just mod it and see if you like the gains you get threw bolt ons if not go with some force induction..
05-18-2009, 04:26 AM
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I am not at all familiar with that cam, and as such, really have no basis to give you a recommendation for a header. The relationship of the cam to the header is critical in making NA power.
05-18-2009, 04:36 AM
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You're looking for absolutes in a sea of maybe's. Could you get to 300? Sure - anything is possible. Will you? Maybe? Give it a try it for yourself, and let us know where it ends up.
I am not at all familiar with that cam, and as such, really have no basis to give you a recommendation for a header. The relationship of the cam to the header is critical in making NA power.
I am not at all familiar with that cam, and as such, really have no basis to give you a recommendation for a header. The relationship of the cam to the header is critical in making NA power.