Should i get the transgo shift kit for AT
03-09-2009, 02:13 PM
#1
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Should i get the transgo shift kit for AT
The mods i have are
: 04 G35 Sedan, JWT Pop Charger, Ztube, SBD Basic Grounding Wire kit, Engine Damper Kit, Stillen Gen 2, 05 350z Suspension, Eibach sway bars, spl rear endlinks, KP windows up module, DC Ceramic headers, Kinetix HFC/non foulers, oem clear corners, hawks hps pads, debadge, rhd battery cover,UR Crank Pulley, Aramid Gasket, Coolant bypass mod , MD 5/16 spacer, Design Chaos tb spacer, GT Spec front tie bar, venom oil catch can, g37 coupe thermostat, ngk copper plugs, nismo radiator cap, Osiris/ HB Speed, richie v2 strut bar.
I am installing a 6mt pumpkin on my car today.
After this project, im thinking of getting the transgo-shift from gtm for $250.
Anyone wanna chime in on how they like theirs, and if its worth it for a NA car.
Thanks
: 04 G35 Sedan, JWT Pop Charger, Ztube, SBD Basic Grounding Wire kit, Engine Damper Kit, Stillen Gen 2, 05 350z Suspension, Eibach sway bars, spl rear endlinks, KP windows up module, DC Ceramic headers, Kinetix HFC/non foulers, oem clear corners, hawks hps pads, debadge, rhd battery cover,UR Crank Pulley, Aramid Gasket, Coolant bypass mod , MD 5/16 spacer, Design Chaos tb spacer, GT Spec front tie bar, venom oil catch can, g37 coupe thermostat, ngk copper plugs, nismo radiator cap, Osiris/ HB Speed, richie v2 strut bar.
I am installing a 6mt pumpkin on my car today.
After this project, im thinking of getting the transgo-shift from gtm for $250.
Anyone wanna chime in on how they like theirs, and if its worth it for a NA car.
Thanks
03-14-2009, 05:47 AM
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To extend the life on a auto trans you DEFFINATLY want to add a cooler. How big is the one that comes with the kit? is the cooler thermostatic? If not you would definitely want to add a thermostatic liquid switch so that way the transmission will warm up and stay at the correct operating temperatures.
06-07-2009, 05:52 PM
#7
I have a 5AT G coupe right now. For FI, what's the advantage of getting the transgo 250.00 kit over a more expensive valve body upgrade?
Can I get away with the transgo kit and a tranny cooler for a 400whp range tune? (Stock block and tranny)
My driving style is moderate/non rough and I drive my coupe like 1-2x a week that's it.
FI (for me) will = a faster coupe for scooting around town and on the highway and the ability to punch it when absolutely necessary
Can I get away with the transgo kit and a tranny cooler for a 400whp range tune? (Stock block and tranny)
My driving style is moderate/non rough and I drive my coupe like 1-2x a week that's it.
FI (for me) will = a faster coupe for scooting around town and on the highway and the ability to punch it when absolutely necessary
Last edited by tiguy99; 06-07-2009 at 06:00 PM.
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06-10-2009, 05:40 PM
#8
[QUOTE=tiguy99;7415181]I have a 5AT G coupe right now. For FI, what's the advantage of getting the transgo 250.00 kit over a more expensive valve body upgrade?]
A transgo kit is a valve body upgrade, it's just the parts. By the time you have someone install it you will have spent a grand
A transgo kit is a valve body upgrade, it's just the parts. By the time you have someone install it you will have spent a grand
06-18-2009, 06:22 AM
#11
have a read..
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/65924-5at-automatic-transmission-owners-with-forced-induction-please-read.html
alot of info about the valve body upgrade including pros and cons.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/65924-5at-automatic-transmission-owners-with-forced-induction-please-read.html
alot of info about the valve body upgrade including pros and cons.
05-20-2017, 07:32 AM
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The mods i have are
: 04 G35 Sedan, JWT Pop Charger, Ztube, SBD Basic Grounding Wire kit, Engine Damper Kit, Stillen Gen 2, 05 350z Suspension, Eibach sway bars, spl rear endlinks, KP windows up module, DC Ceramic headers, Kinetix HFC/non foulers, oem clear corners, hawks hps pads, debadge, rhd battery cover,UR Crank Pulley, Aramid Gasket, Coolant bypass mod , MD 5/16 spacer, Design Chaos tb spacer, GT Spec front tie bar, venom oil catch can, g37 coupe thermostat, ngk copper plugs, nismo radiator cap, Osiris/ HB Speed, richie v2 strut bar.
I am installing a 6mt pumpkin on my car today.
After this project, im thinking of getting the transgo-shift from gtm for $250.
Anyone wanna chime in on how they like theirs, and if its worth it for a NA car.
Thanks
: 04 G35 Sedan, JWT Pop Charger, Ztube, SBD Basic Grounding Wire kit, Engine Damper Kit, Stillen Gen 2, 05 350z Suspension, Eibach sway bars, spl rear endlinks, KP windows up module, DC Ceramic headers, Kinetix HFC/non foulers, oem clear corners, hawks hps pads, debadge, rhd battery cover,UR Crank Pulley, Aramid Gasket, Coolant bypass mod , MD 5/16 spacer, Design Chaos tb spacer, GT Spec front tie bar, venom oil catch can, g37 coupe thermostat, ngk copper plugs, nismo radiator cap, Osiris/ HB Speed, richie v2 strut bar.
I am installing a 6mt pumpkin on my car today.
After this project, im thinking of getting the transgo-shift from gtm for $250.
Anyone wanna chime in on how they like theirs, and if its worth it for a NA car.
Thanks
05-20-2017, 09:40 AM
#13
What's up, Andrew.
4drmadness hasn't logged in in over 4 years, so you might be waiting a bit. I'm amazed that you can't find it anywhere..
I got mine off of EBay.. That's right, EBay. And yeahhh I know some people will disagree about buying a precision part like that off of EBay, but I knew what I was looking for and I've done a lot of business with the seller before. So that was that. As far as installation, It's NOT hard. The 'hardest' part is just trying to ease that fluid soaked valve body outta' the transmission housing and disconnecting those TCM wires on the top before you can actually ease it down completely. The rest was actually pretty fun imo.. but I was told I'm crazy, so, judge for yourself.
- Here's a link as of today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transgo-Repr...lVBufz&vxp=mtr
Matt
06-02-2017, 05:22 AM
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What could the problem be
Was going from clovis to Albuquerque, about a 3 and a half hour drive. Was driving it kinda hard but was still being kinda easy on it, car starts smoking and i pull over, my dad takes a look and theres oil leaking all over the drivers side underneath the car, he checked the dip stick and he said there was absolutely no oil left in the engine. We think its a head gasket that blew, that wasnt the case, we checked again to make sure it was empty and then we put in 1qt of oil at a time checking for leaks until we hit 5qts. We continued to Albuquerque while stopping every 20-30miles, before we got there we checked it again and it seemed like it lost a lil more oil so we did 1 more qt. Shoulda been 5qts maybe 6 at most. Drop it off at the place that was doing the work and asked them to check it over. Apparently the engine was 3qts over full, it was spewing out the dipstick and the oil filter cap when he checked it. He said right now my engine is completely ****ed but he's not sure how bad. He said it could be some spun bearings or something, the camshafts could be fked, or the entire engine is just useless. The engine cant just be useless. When we stopped we let it cool down and refilled the oil and continued on with zero problems, no knocking, no more smoke, and the engine didnt seize. Hoping someone here has some answers
06-02-2017, 05:51 AM
#15
Was going from clovis to Albuquerque, about a 3 and a half hour drive. Was driving it kinda hard but was still being kinda easy on it, car starts smoking and i pull over, my dad takes a look and theres oil leaking all over the drivers side underneath the car, he checked the dip stick and he said there was absolutely no oil left in the engine. We think its a head gasket that blew, that wasnt the case, we checked again to make sure it was empty and then we put in 1qt of oil at a time checking for leaks until we hit 5qts. We continued to Albuquerque while stopping every 20-30miles, before we got there we checked it again and it seemed like it lost a lil more oil so we did 1 more qt. Shoulda been 5qts maybe 6 at most. Drop it off at the place that was doing the work and asked them to check it over. Apparently the engine was 3qts over full, it was spewing out the dipstick and the oil filter cap when he checked it. He said right now my engine is completely ****ed but he's not sure how bad. He said it could be some spun bearings or something, the camshafts could be fked, or the entire engine is just useless. The engine cant just be useless. When we stopped we let it cool down and refilled the oil and continued on with zero problems, no knocking, no more smoke, and the engine didnt seize. Hoping someone here has some answers
06-02-2017, 08:03 AM
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how reliable is it? I brought my Z to a shop with the Transgo and their nissan technician said he advises against installing it because he's seen it blow peoples transmissions and said i should get the stillen. Any input would be great
06-02-2017, 09:03 AM
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06-02-2017, 09:17 AM
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What's up, Andrew.
4drmadness hasn't logged in in over 4 years, so you might be waiting a bit. I'm amazed that you can't find it anywhere..
I got mine off of EBay.. That's right, EBay. And yeahhh I know some people will disagree about buying a precision part like that off of EBay, but I knew what I was looking for and I've done a lot of business with the seller before. So that was that. As far as installation, It's NOT hard. The 'hardest' part is just trying to ease that fluid soaked valve body outta' the transmission housing and disconnecting those TCM wires on the top before you can actually ease it down completely. The rest was actually pretty fun imo.. but I was told I'm crazy, so, judge for yourself.
- Here's a link as of today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transgo-Repr...lVBufz&vxp=mtr
Matt
4drmadness hasn't logged in in over 4 years, so you might be waiting a bit. I'm amazed that you can't find it anywhere..
I got mine off of EBay.. That's right, EBay. And yeahhh I know some people will disagree about buying a precision part like that off of EBay, but I knew what I was looking for and I've done a lot of business with the seller before. So that was that. As far as installation, It's NOT hard. The 'hardest' part is just trying to ease that fluid soaked valve body outta' the transmission housing and disconnecting those TCM wires on the top before you can actually ease it down completely. The rest was actually pretty fun imo.. but I was told I'm crazy, so, judge for yourself.
- Here's a link as of today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transgo-Repr...lVBufz&vxp=mtr
Matt
06-02-2017, 02:04 PM
#20
Was going from clovis to Albuquerque, about a 3 and a half hour drive. Was driving it kinda hard but was still being kinda easy on it, car starts smoking and i pull over, my dad takes a look and theres oil leaking all over the drivers side underneath the car, he checked the dip stick and he said there was absolutely no oil left in the engine. We think its a head gasket that blew, that wasnt the case, we checked again to make sure it was empty and then we put in 1qt of oil at a time checking for leaks until we hit 5qts. We continued to Albuquerque while stopping every 20-30miles, before we got there we checked it again and it seemed like it lost a lil more oil so we did 1 more qt. Shoulda been 5qts maybe 6 at most. Drop it off at the place that was doing the work and asked them to check it over. Apparently the engine was 3qts over full, it was spewing out the dipstick and the oil filter cap when he checked it. He said right now my engine is completely ****ed but he's not sure how bad. He said it could be some spun bearings or something, the camshafts could be fked, or the entire engine is just useless. The engine cant just be useless. When we stopped we let it cool down and refilled the oil and continued on with zero problems, no knocking, no more smoke, and the engine didnt seize. Hoping someone here has some answers
I don't know how to address this other than saying that you need to get the car in the air so you can get under it while it's running and the oil is topped off so you can see exactly where the leak is coming from. Do a compression check too before you throw parts at it. You're crank and rod bearings are probably fine. I'd be worried about your cams, lifters, and valves.