No plans to do anything on that side of things.

 

Well that sucks that they didn't put the new bushings in. You figure(I'm guessing) on the work or not, they would install the bushings since they have to be taken out anyway, and the fact that you gave them everything. They should of seen shiny new "hockey pucks" with the rest of the new stuff to be installed.

Anyway, sounds like things are coming together. Any word about the BC stroker kit, I know you said there was a 3-4month wait, you just enjoy what you got until that comes in?

 

So I just picked up my car today and everything went well in regards of the install. Here is my quick review based on the limited driving I had with it. I also cannot push it too much since it's breakin period.

1. More shifting is required but nothing too annoying.
2. My rpm for cruising on the highway, 75mph, is now ~3100rpm as oppose to ~2500rpm.
3. The MPG doesn't seem to have changed too much on the cruising ~25MPG.
4. I'm not sure what did this but, on this corner I usually take a little aggressive, I can feel my rear vibrate quite a bit. Now it's much more stable. Perhaps the SPL bushings.
5. On the same corner, I have a lot less tire screeching.

After I give it a few hundred miles, I'll try to launch it to see how things are. I do lose a lot of traction going into second. We'll see how it goes.

For the stroker kit, I have to finalize my build list and start ordering, but for now I'll just enjoy what I have. I think that is what I am going to do, hopefully I don't spend more money in between...

 

Great to hear Gabe!!! I can't wait to install my gears for now am just going to swap my 3.3 FD for the manual. 3.5 due to money situation.

 

Busy night and morning today.

1. Took some pic of the rear end, nothing too amazing here, but just nice to see.


2. Put the cosworth plenum and samco on, but the fuel bracket broke off on the plenum after driving for a few minutes. So Adam is showing me what he did to remove it.

You can see the fuel stuff dangling.

3. I used a grinding wheel and ported the apexi filter out to match the 3" MAF


4. I replaced my driver side door lock actuator since it doesn't lock anymore.

EDIT:

5. I also rewired my fans for them to turn on differently.

Hopefully I can bring it to the shop to get a dyno/tune and to put the 3" MAF on, before I leave to Korea again and I hope that I can finalize my build plans with the shop, so that I can get the ball rolling on my new longblock. That's it for the next few weeks. Oh yeah, I'm pretty sure i lost some mid power with the cosworth.

 

Good work gabe.....Sometime this week 1cockyZ is going to send me his ported jwt velocity stack/maf for mine and I hope to put it on. I don't expect any real gains, but it will make me feel better that it is flowing as best it could.

Here's a pic I took of my car today getting ready for the track tomorrow.



I made this kind of impromptu soft box out of heat resistant piping insulation.....too my surprise I saw an 8-9C degree drop in static traffic. This was a surprise to say the least, but I hope it helps in the initial lack of power associated with the heat adsorbed bye the pop charger.



You can't really see, but it covers the outside of the headshield (top and bottom), seals off the area to the radiator, and goes behind the filter and blocks off the heat from the drivers side exhaust manifold.

Took 10 mins......we'll see if it helps tomorrow.

P.S hopefully you don't see this as thread jack lol.

 

Looking good mike, when you say track do you mean drag or do you mean laps?

Not a thread jack at all, since it's all related Interesting that that heat box shield thing was able to drop the temperature by that much. I wasn't aware that the fiberglass fan mount can actually conduct that much heat. What kind of temperatures do you see, in terms of intake, engine, and outside temp (idle and driving)?

I took out my MREV2 and i was surprised how much oil was in there. I see that you have an oil catch can, do you actually get a lot of oil?

 

I should have prefaced it by saying it wasn't actually an apples to apples comparison. I will try and do a more thorough comparison this week.....even so, if it drops the temps 3-4C.....it is 5 bucks well spent lol.

It is going to be at the drags tomorrow.

I nned to clean out my lower plenum.....my car smokes a fair bit. It hasn't caught a lot of oil but it has only been on for ~3 weeks. I made it out of 3/8 a/n fitting and an oil/air seperator from lowes. Cost me ~35 bucks and fits sooooooo much better than any other universal set-up. I originally got the greddy, but that damn thing is massive. I couldn't find an effective enough way to mount it.....so I made my own.

The new moto for fall is: 12's or bust....lol.

 

I fixed the issue by completely removing the fuel/coolant mount, per Adam's recommendation.

Here is what the finish product looks like.



This is what I removed.



Oh yeah, since I was in the garage I took a pic of my 3 Filthy Z. Oooh! Yeah, that is an Altima and I like Nissan







Good luck breaking into the 12s, what is your best time so far?

 

13.48 with 268whp and street tires.....tomorrow will be 282whp (I hope....I fear the car is down on power) and 275 MT Drag Radials. I don't expect 12's tomorrow, but a 13.2 would be nice 1st time out on DR's. We'll see.

 

Gabe,

Speaking of heat a couple of posts ago... I was told that the tomei headers Ver2 don`t need to be heat wrapped nor does the Z have space for the wrapping.

I found that funny because you have the ver2 right? Any insight?

 

Yeah, I have the version2. The only reason why they mention that it doesn't have room for wrap is because they are quite big to start with and there is essentially no space in between each primaries. Let me tell you that it was a huge pain in the butt to wrap them and the only wraps that worked were the Tomei ones, since they are thinner and more bend conforming.

 

I guess Tomei promotes that they don`t need to be heat wrapped to begin with. Did you hear or experience anything like that before you bought the gear?



p.s.

I was looking checking a few different Autobacs out here (JP) and I guess they don`t usually keep Tomei in stock because Tomei is more for serious builders. I found that very true.

 

I actually talked to them quite a bit prior to purchasing them and they said they don't need to be heat wrapped because it comes with a heatshield plate and hoses. The reason they did that is because the heat wrap was too difficult to put on compared to their V1.

If you are in tokyo then the headquarter is very close by and you can actually browse their inventory and buy directly from them. My experience with the price is that it's not any cheaper to buy it in Japan.

 

[QUOTE=gabe3d;7739561]I fixed the issue by completely removing the fuel/coolant mount, per Adam's recommendation.

Here is what the finish product looks like.



This is what I removed.



Oh yeah, since I was in the garage I took a pic of my 3 Filthy Z. Oooh! Yeah, that is an Altima and I like Nissan






Man you do love your nissans.lol

 

see Gabe, told ya it was easy

 

Yeah! Thanks again Adam for the suggestions. I see why you flipped the other bracket. Looks better and without doing so I can't run the other tube.

One interesting thing about the cosworth is that they elininated the throttle body warmer. I wonder if it causes any problem with those guys with harsh winters.

Btw how hot are you guys plenum after running the car for a while?

Another issue I noticed today is that the car would hardly start when both radiator fans are on with AC and my cabin fans are on max. This is practically a new interstate battery with more cranking amp then my stock. I am thinking that it may be related to my underdrive pulley.

 

The battery starts the car...the alternator essentially keeps it running. The pulley wouldn't have anything to do with it. I have the ATI on my car...it is heavily underdriven, far more than the UR, etc pullies. I have a stock battery in my car

 

I see. Are you using the stock radiator fans?

 

yes