Tomei Header and Cam install
#301
So, you relocated the evap system and relocated the fuel damper to the injector rails? Why would you do that? What does it have to do with cooling?
I know Adam must have a good reason for doing it, but I sure can't figure it out. Do you have a link to your original conversation? Or a how-to link?
I know Adam must have a good reason for doing it, but I sure can't figure it out. Do you have a link to your original conversation? Or a how-to link?
I wasn't going to relocate it in the first place, but after driving a few minutes the bracket came loose of the Cosworth Plenum! For some reason while installing it there was a some downward stress, so it didn't surprise me that it came off since it is only glued on. I contemplated gluing it back on but after looking at the hosing, I couldn't think of any reason why that bracket exists in the first place so I went along with Adam's suggestion. Perhaps it is there to move the hoses away from the plenum, but with the Cosworth it's not even close to touching it and if it does then it would be with the CF cap.
There was no how-to link other then a picture that Adam sent to me that is similar to the e picture I have posted. It's quite obvious and easy as what you have to do once you look and feel around that area. The one thing you have to do though, is slightly bend a bracket that is connected on the rear coolant pipe, it holds some insulated wires away from the engine. If you don't do so then you will not be able to line up the bolts on the fuel rail. HTH.
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#302
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Hey Gabe, I think you should start another thread for your stroker kit install. You already have 16 pages just for the headers, cams, and gears. Dont know if that was your plan already... just helping sort things out better before it gets too cluttered...
You could also add your original dynos from the 1st page of this thread and have a before and after comparison of the built motor... not trying to tell you what to do
You could also add your original dynos from the 1st page of this thread and have a before and after comparison of the built motor... not trying to tell you what to do
#304
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I wasn't going to relocate it in the first place, but after driving a few minutes the bracket came loose of the Cosworth Plenum! For some reason while installing it there was a some downward stress, so it didn't surprise me that it came off since it is only glued on. I contemplated gluing it back on but after looking at the hosing, I couldn't think of any reason why that bracket exists in the first place so I went along with Adam's suggestion. Perhaps it is there to move the hoses away from the plenum, but with the Cosworth it's not even close to touching it and if it does then it would be with the CF cap.
There was no how-to link other then a picture that Adam sent to me that is similar to the e picture I have posted. It's quite obvious and easy as what you have to do once you look and feel around that area. The one thing you have to do though, is slightly bend a bracket that is connected on the rear coolant pipe, it holds some insulated wires away from the engine. If you don't do so then you will not be able to line up the bolts on the fuel rail. HTH.
There was no how-to link other then a picture that Adam sent to me that is similar to the e picture I have posted. It's quite obvious and easy as what you have to do once you look and feel around that area. The one thing you have to do though, is slightly bend a bracket that is connected on the rear coolant pipe, it holds some insulated wires away from the engine. If you don't do so then you will not be able to line up the bolts on the fuel rail. HTH.
Is there any benefit to doing this other than eliminating the need for the bracket?
#305
Ran into some issues today when starting my car. My CKP is giving me a DTC again, not sure why it's doing it again and my rear end is giving me that infamous nice whine when i let go of the throttle. It's gonna go back in the shop today or tomorrow.
That's a very good idea to create another thread for the upcoming build. It'll make the title a lot more meaningful and helpful for people to find it.
No, not yet. I haven't installed my new intake filter and maf housing. Not sure when I'll be able to do that, since I'm leaving to Korea this coming weekend and both the tuners that I go to have no time this week. Also my build plans for the new motor is on hold because of their availability.
I'm not sure if there are any benefits to it. Perhaps Adam can chime in on this and give us his reasons.
Just from fluid dynamics stand point, less piping, bigger diameter pipes, and less bends will create less back pressure yielding in higher fluid throughput can be done, but this is mainly true for impeller based centrifugal pumps (unless if it is a closed loop system then some of these won't matter, but the fuel delivery system is not). I'm not sure if this is the type of pumps used for fuel.
Hey Gabe, I think you should start another thread for your stroker kit install. You already have 16 pages just for the headers, cams, and gears. Dont know if that was your plan already... just helping sort things out better before it gets too cluttered...
You could also add your original dynos from the 1st page of this thread and have a before and after comparison of the built motor... not trying to tell you what to do
You could also add your original dynos from the 1st page of this thread and have a before and after comparison of the built motor... not trying to tell you what to do
Just from fluid dynamics stand point, less piping, bigger diameter pipes, and less bends will create less back pressure yielding in higher fluid throughput can be done, but this is mainly true for impeller based centrifugal pumps (unless if it is a closed loop system then some of these won't matter, but the fuel delivery system is not). I'm not sure if this is the type of pumps used for fuel.
Last edited by gabe3d; 09-15-2009 at 11:01 AM.
#306
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Did you get the whining sounds checked out? Don't remember when you said it... That would be caused by installation error possibly? Like too much lash or preload between the gears?
Does having the 4.08gears normally result in a whining sound? I have seen a few complaints about the sound of those gears...almost makes me think I shouldn't get one...
Does having the 4.08gears normally result in a whining sound? I have seen a few complaints about the sound of those gears...almost makes me think I shouldn't get one...
#307
Did you get the whining sounds checked out? Don't remember when you said it... That would be caused by installation error possibly? Like too much lash or preload between the gears?
Does having the 4.08gears normally result in a whining sound? I have seen a few complaints about the sound of those gears...almost makes me think I shouldn't get one...
Does having the 4.08gears normally result in a whining sound? I have seen a few complaints about the sound of those gears...almost makes me think I shouldn't get one...
I asked them whether this may be related to the 4.08 gears, but he said he couldn't tell for sure. Yeah I've seen those complaints as well, but it is not an overwhelming number where it would leave no room for doubt.
#311
It's official the new engine is under way. Had numerous convo with zcargarage and rebelloracing and they are going to build this baby for me. Gonna drop off my car today before my trip and let them rip it apart. Here are the items and work that will be performed. I'm sure I a$m forgetting something.
-88mm crower crankshaft
-JE pistons 11CR 100mm
-Manley turbo tuff rods
-Coated ACL race bearings
-ARP main studs
-HR head studs
-Revup oil pump
-Darton sleeves
-Supertech valvetrain
-Rebello stage4 head work (out does cosworth by a mile)
-Polish and port match entire engine
-Model engine and flow for custom cam grind
-Some sort of fuel upgrade, maybe only pump
Parts that I will be reusing
-apexi filter
-3" maf
-samco intake tube
-cosworth plenum
-southbend clutch
-UR flywheel and crank pulley
-tomei v2 headers
The engine as it stands today will be benched dyno and my new one as well. Same goes for the heads, they will be flow tested. Prior to sending my engine I will get a tune with only the cosworth plenum.
At the same time I will be also changing out my transmission to the CD0009 to get rid of the occasional grind into 3rd and the notchy engagement into the lower gears.
This should be a good time to start a new thread. That is it for now. Wish me luck.
-88mm crower crankshaft
-JE pistons 11CR 100mm
-Manley turbo tuff rods
-Coated ACL race bearings
-ARP main studs
-HR head studs
-Revup oil pump
-Darton sleeves
-Supertech valvetrain
-Rebello stage4 head work (out does cosworth by a mile)
-Polish and port match entire engine
-Model engine and flow for custom cam grind
-Some sort of fuel upgrade, maybe only pump
Parts that I will be reusing
-apexi filter
-3" maf
-samco intake tube
-cosworth plenum
-southbend clutch
-UR flywheel and crank pulley
-tomei v2 headers
The engine as it stands today will be benched dyno and my new one as well. Same goes for the heads, they will be flow tested. Prior to sending my engine I will get a tune with only the cosworth plenum.
At the same time I will be also changing out my transmission to the CD0009 to get rid of the occasional grind into 3rd and the notchy engagement into the lower gears.
This should be a good time to start a new thread. That is it for now. Wish me luck.
Last edited by gabe3d; 09-18-2009 at 11:02 AM.
#315
Yup will start one tonight
CD0009 transmission is the latest transmission for the VQ35, it adds a couple more synchros in the lower gears.
#316
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That's interesting about the extra synchros... According to Mitchell and Alldata(unless the tranny is year specific) the 2004.5 sedan(my car) has 3 synchros in 2nd, 2 synchros for 3rd, 4th, and 5th. And 1 synchro for 1st and 6th.
I mean how many more synchros do you need or can even fit? Lol It might be base of the year of the vehicle. I heard that the earlier VQs had transmission problems...
Good luck with your build, can't wait for your results and thoughts.
I mean how many more synchros do you need or can even fit? Lol It might be base of the year of the vehicle. I heard that the earlier VQs had transmission problems...
Good luck with your build, can't wait for your results and thoughts.
#317
That's interesting about the extra synchros... According to Mitchell and Alldata(unless the tranny is year specific) the 2004.5 sedan(my car) has 3 synchros in 2nd, 2 synchros for 3rd, 4th, and 5th. And 1 synchro for 1st and 6th.
I mean how many more synchros do you need or can even fit? Lol It might be base of the year of the vehicle. I heard that the earlier VQs had transmission problems...
Good luck with your build, can't wait for your results and thoughts.
I mean how many more synchros do you need or can even fit? Lol It might be base of the year of the vehicle. I heard that the earlier VQs had transmission problems...
Good luck with your build, can't wait for your results and thoughts.
Here is the new thread
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...ml#post7762204
However I'll still keep this thread updated for the gear issue as well as the final dyno/tune with the intake upgrades (cosworth plenum, intake tube, 3"maf, apexi filter).
#320
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Hey Gabe, do you know if the measurements for the Tomei headers (42.7mm primaries and 60.0mm collector) are inner or outer diameters?
Reason I ask, because I don't want to run TOO big of an exhaust diameter to where I loss bottom end torque... I think 2.5in is a little big for a mostly stock, even bolt-on VQ. I might sound odd or out of place, but I think for my exhaust set-up it would Tomei headers, Tomei test pipes, HR y-pipe, stock mid-pipe and HKS muffler.
All the diameters are roughly the same 2.25in and not TOO big, so I won't loss low end torque. Let me know what your thoughts are, maybe Adam can chime in too.
I know larger diameter exhaust loss low end but gain topend, especially when going dual. I don't want to rev the hell out of my car to make power and get my car going. Ya know what I mean?!
Reason I ask, because I don't want to run TOO big of an exhaust diameter to where I loss bottom end torque... I think 2.5in is a little big for a mostly stock, even bolt-on VQ. I might sound odd or out of place, but I think for my exhaust set-up it would Tomei headers, Tomei test pipes, HR y-pipe, stock mid-pipe and HKS muffler.
All the diameters are roughly the same 2.25in and not TOO big, so I won't loss low end torque. Let me know what your thoughts are, maybe Adam can chime in too.
I know larger diameter exhaust loss low end but gain topend, especially when going dual. I don't want to rev the hell out of my car to make power and get my car going. Ya know what I mean?!
Last edited by allmotorsedan; 09-23-2009 at 08:36 AM.