Hi Guys,
This is geared towards the more experienced NA modders out there. So I am looking to rebuild a RevUp motor last time I rebuilt a motor was with carbs so it’s been a while. I know fuel injection is a bit different and I have a few questions below. I’m not looking to do anything drastic in a NA mod. I want to make the motor durable and fix the flaw with the RevUp piston rings but at the same time improve it. My plan is to find a used 2006 rev up and rebuild it then eventually do a swap. I plan on keeping it pretty low key. I have a part list in mind but nothing concrete yet. I do not wanna use a engine management system. i wanna keep the ecu stock. If need be ill re-flash it but that's the extent i will go. I don't wanna go rewiring anything.

Parts owned:
MRev Plenum V1
Stillen Headers
JWT Clutch
Random tech high flow cats

Parts to get:
Eagle H-beam Connecting rods
GTM/ACL VQ35DE Trust/Main/Connecting rod Bearings and Coating
Gasket set/Rear Main Seal (OEM)
Wiseco 11:1 pistons
ARP Main Stud/Head Stud kit
Head gasket (don’t know which one yet)
Lower Temp Thermostat
Hone and/or Bore block
Balanced/Polish rotating Assembly
5 angle radius cut valve job
Closing the Engine block deck
Block and heads redecked

Piston options
Option 1
95.5 mm Bore with 11.0 CR
Q1. The question is would I have to drop the spark plug temp?
Q2. What is the CR threshold for this motor that would require a temp drop in spark plug ex 11.5, 12?

Option 2
96 mm Bore with 11.0 CR
Q1. Will the higher compression ratio compensate for the larger bore (fuel injector wise)?
Q2. Would I have to increase the fuel injectors?
Q3. At 96 mm bore what is the ideal CR with standard injectors or does it not affect it?

General Questions
Q1. Would it be worth it to upgrade the Valve Springs?
Q2. Is there any other bottle necks that would hinder for decent performance?

I’m not looking for a 300WHP machine just a good reliable daily driver with some kick to her. Also if anyone what to offload a 2006 RevUp long block in the next 6 months I am looking for one.(east cost)
If I have missed something please let me know constructive criticism is always appreciated nay sayers need not to weigh in.

 

Alex, per your request via PM this is just my 0.02.

Also, I really like my uprev tune in the stock ECU.

 

def. put some cams in it, not sure of the point of building an engine with all that nice stuff without cams or a tune listed.

edit* springs shouldn't be needed unless you go with aggressive cams and/or raise the rev limiter above 7k

 

Its a daily driver I don't want to make the ride too aggressive. If there is a mild cam id consider it but its more or less to correct the whole crappy RevUp piston ring problem. I just wanna make a durable motor.

 

a 268 or 272 cam is still very streetable and IMO worth the money. if you like the loby sound leave the idle speed alone, if you don't bump it up 1 or 2 hundred rpm.

 

i would suggest 264, through the research I've done they seem to be the best for your N/A build (its similar to the one I'm doing)

 

If I'm not mistaken the rev limit on RevUp is 7500. Id check my tach but the car is in storage for a 2 more weeks. Would it not be a safe measure to get new springs for the high RPM?

 

thought non-rev was 6600 and rev was 6900 HR is 7500

 

I think the Revup goes to 7400+ just like the HR.

 

Rev-ups have a 7200 RPM redline.

 

Since the redline is above 7000 rpm would it make sense to get springs as well if doing a mild cam?

 

What is a "mild" cam? The definition varies. Not trying to make things more difficult but if you reply with something general like 272s, you should realize that not all 272s are the same.

My best advice would be to ask your machinist (if you are not doing it yourself) and see what they suggest. For example, our machinist suggested that we use NISMO Valve Springs on Adam's build where we also utilized Tomei 268s. Granted it's not a Rev-Up, 268s aren't very aggressive (they are still more aggressive than some other company's 292s) and your not revving as high as he is my point is that we went off the suggestions of our machinist based on our goals and the motor's capabilities.

 

I was thinking JWT 262 DEG (A3505-REVS7) as mild a bit more aggressive is some thing like JWT 272 DEG (A3505-REVC8).

 

As per your post in this thread I'll assume you'll be staying at the stock redline. I have no direct experience with the JWT S7s but based off it's specs on the JWT cam card I'd say you would be fine with the stock springs while maintaining the stock redline. I'd still suggest for you to go over it with your machinist while equipped with the cam card specs and go off of their recommendations.

 

My car is a daily driver and I've had success with mild JWT 261 C2 cams. The revvup model is called the S7R and they are not too crazy and great for a DD. I'd do the valve springs as well, nothing crazy JWT springs are fine for what we do and handle a rev to 8k if you do anything else later on. I'd do a port job on the heads before doing a valve job as there is much that can be attained from porting the heads.

 

Closing the deck? Why? Alot of work, alot of cost, for zero reward

Option 2 is the only one that makes sense

Stock injectors will be fine at that compression...it's not a big jump from stock. Your stock pump will also be fine at the power level you're likely to achieve

For cams - the #'s '264, 272, 310" essentially mean nothing - it's largely marketing jargon. Take the time to understand how the cam works, and how those #'s relate to other aspects of that cam, take your intake/exhaust setup into consideration, and you'll find one that should do well. This is where any hp gains you get are going to be made - in your cam choice and your headwork. Otherwise, don't expect any realistic gain over what your motor currently puts down.

You don't need ARP headstuds, stock will work fine. Stock headgasket will also work fine. Bearings - use whatever your machinist suggests you use at his suggested clearances and his suggested oil.

The valvework is ultimately more important than the port work on these heads on an NA engine. A simply port/polish cleanup will more than suffice

Engine mgmt makes or breaks a setup. Reflash, Accessport, Haltech, etc - none require any re-wiring of any kind. Find out who will do your tuning locally to you and use whatever they suggest.

 

Would it be worth it to oversize +1mm the valves?

 

I think your head is going in 50 different directions without really honing in on what you're really trying to accomplish, both performance and budget wise.

Is your engine using oil? If so, have it re-ringed by a professional, and call it a day. That will solve the inherent problem with minimal cost and downtime. There is zero point to doing pistons and rods if you're not going for an NA build. To use forged pistons and forged rods, spend the time porting, and doing a valvejob, and all that jazz, only to not even bother doing cams, or real tuning is completely putting the cart before the horse. Define your goals, be honest with yourself, and the rest falls into place on it's own

 

Well the issue i have now is yes engine is using oil but to minimize down time i want to buy a long block RevUp and rebuild it. my car goes into storage every year for winter. But i want to rebuild it to a point where its durable and not too crazy on HP. 96mm piston with rods. possibly a mild cam and port and valve job. just to free up a little hp to give it a little bit more kick.

 

plan on such a rebuild taking about a month at a minimum for a machinist to realistically accomplish (time will depend of course on who you use and what time of year they do it). Also budget in all the ancillaries you will need - belts, gasket set, potentially idlers/tensioners, thermostat, water pump, etc etc

again, set the budget and you'll quickly find the net result falls into place naturally