ThreeFiveZero Z

iTrader: (23)

+1...

Depends on your goals. I race a built n/a car and not only run faster lap times than the guys with boosted cars but have never had a single issue that comes with a boosted setup(boost leak, s/c belt slippage, overheating, backfiring, smoking, etc.)

whitez33350ztt

iTrader: (4)

actually cheaper for a vortech if u do labor urself for the setup

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

~100whp over stock, a flat torque curve from ~4500 to 8400 (higher if I wanted, but I think I'd need to swap cams to really make it worthwhile), and purely linear power delivery without adding ~100 +/- to the nose of the car, and with the ability to just get in, drive it, is hardly a "minimal gain". But that's my opinion, your's might be different. As mentioned 100's of times on this site, there is no one route better than another...just different. It all comes down to personal preference

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

I think people are getting jaded by these monster output motors.

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

so still considering n/a mods.. what DOES give power with an n/a setup? i read in another postthat the high comp pistons dont give power and cams only shift the power curve. so what is the most worthwhile n/a mod aside from the basic plenum spacer and exhaust.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Well that's correct, but at the same time incomplete. Just remember high compression pistons are there to assist the more aggressive cams in making power, and the cams do shift the powerband, but they do it while making more power. Whether its worth-while, you have to decide that for yourself. I personally think it is.

jumbosrule

Personally I think there is a difference between an N/A build and doing bolt-on mods. What I think you are looking for and what you can afford are probably two different things - just like the rest of us, lol. I agree with everybody else that most NA builds are not worth the money when it comes to building the motor, doing cams & springs, etc. But the bolt-ons are fun, add dyno-proven power and don't take it to the next level of COST that building a motor does. Labor is one of the major reasons. You might purchase a longblock package for $4000, but somebody has to remove & replace the core and with a shop rate of $75-125 and hour it adds up. With bolt-ons you can do them in your garage almost without exception. You can learn anything online or just invite a knowledgeable friend over to help out on a weekend. Or go to his place with beer.

The most bang for your buck bolt-on mods for the VQ (IMHO) are going to be lowering, intake, plenum spacer, exhaust and a tune. UpRev on a VQ will cost between $400-800, depending on the shop. Getting a tune done off the showroom floor will yield between 15-30whp. If you have the bolt-ons done you can squeeze out more power from them and get closer to 40whp when they are all combined. You'll pull on most any other non-FI VQ out there without similar mods, but that's as much as you can expect. You will absolutely feel the difference if you do these all at once. If you do them one at a time, the differences will be more subtle, but if you know your car you should definitely feel a difference.

Find a local tuner you can trust, who has experience with the VQ. Do your research on the shop's customer service reputation and when it comes to parts and labor, count on small problems that will cost you a bit more.

Unfortunately the VQ is an expensive engine to work on. I did almost every bolt on I could find and eventually went to a custom FI setup. At some point I was looking at my shop bill and I realized I could have purchased two or maybe three already modded cars from craigslist or other classifieds. I pretty much accepted that the cost didn't matter because I was getting something that I wanted. Something uniquely mine and personalized. Can't put a price on that. Save up for what you want and don't compromise.

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

i agree with u jumbos. i am at the point where there are not any other bolt ons for me therefore im trying to go a little further.

jumbosrule

If you have already done a tune, then that's "Stage I" of your build. Stage II is prepping each system for your "end game". What do you want the final product to be? 550whp? A particular time in the 1/4 mile? The answers to your questions should point you towards a supercharger, turbo, NOS, or NA application. If you want AC and an interior, then you are not trying to build a sub 10 second 1/4 mile Z.

Building a motor is one thing you are going to have to do if you plan on adding big horsepower. Anything in the 400-450whp range will eventually break rods. If you are taking down a motor for new rods, you might as well look at a full short block package. The next step would be a long block package.

But if you plan on adding big horsepower, you impact other systems as well. Fuel delivery for example. Upgrading the fuel pump and injectors should be a minimum, but to what capacities totally depend on what your power goals are. Big horsepower and a changed fuel system will also make using an aftermarket ECU something you might consider. It's not necessary to change compression or upgrade cams unless again... application

Can your stock brakes handle the increased loads of more power? Coil-over suspension, chassis bracing, dampers... you can get as crazy as you want - using those products only makes sense if ...application.

So going, "a little further" might be upgrading to a BBK, any chassis bracing available... all with the goal of adding more power in the future and having all the other systems in your car ready for it.

If you are looking for more performance NOW and you have not done so already, the tune is the place to concentrate. The tune makes all your bolt on mods even better - taking advantage more of the potential of what they give you. The tune is adjusting air/fuel maps through the rpm ranges to maximize power and efficiency. My own bolt-on VQ dyno-d at 211whp @ 5800rpm. After the tune I topped out at 236whp at 3250rpm.

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

i actually have a decent amount of bolt ons. i have an 03 g coupe with VB mod, trans cooler, tein basics, front and rear camber arms, toe bolts, sways, fstb, rotora f/r BBK, greddy evo TT exhaust, jwt pop charger w/ z tube, MD 5/16 spacer, grounding kit, engine damper, AME fs01 wheels, walbro 255 and 1 step colder plugs (from previous setup), and other exterior mods.

so now im considering some other power adder. I used to have a utec but didnt like it and sold it.

im not looking for anything crazy. maybe a low 13's to mid 12's 1/4 mile time. i considered nitrous but its expensive here and i want on tap power.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

brakes have absolutely nothing to do with horsepower fwiw - your brakes do not know, nor do they care, how much horsepower the engine has, as the brakes are not stopping the engine, they are stopping what the engine is bolted to. Brakes care about traction and weight.

kgkeen101

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...-epilogue.html

That's my NA build, just some food for thought. Going to put nitrous on the car and be around 450whp when all is said and done and it'll be direct port so with the proper tuning it'll be as reliable as running low boost on proper tuning. Running a 100 shot with 315-335NA =).

Just reading the whole thread, all what you want to do. I went NA just to do it up unique.