DIY Build
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DIY Build
So I recently acquired a 05' enthusiast from an 'authorized rebuilder' for cheap. Problem was that not only was there a dent in the drivers side rear quarter panel, from "being backed into" but also the frame was bent. Still, a couple grand later and I have a car in decent shape for a lot less than what you would normally spend on this year model.
I'm building the motor first, and turbo after it's broken in.
Removed entire rear assembly just to replace evap line that wasn't connected to the gas tank. Bought some Tein S-tech's to put on while I was at it.
I'm building the motor first, and turbo after it's broken in.
Removed entire rear assembly just to replace evap line that wasn't connected to the gas tank. Bought some Tein S-tech's to put on while I was at it.
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Arias extreme 9.5, competition clutch stage 4 and flywheel, eagle rods, jwt s2 cams and springs,
misc. rear coolant bypass mod, revup oil pump, samco hoses, arp L19 head studs
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In for updates/progress. Good luck.
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As this post is in the NA section I assume that this rebuild is not going to be boosted.
If my assumption is correct, why would you use low compression pistons ????
If my assumption is correct, why would you use low compression pistons ????
Last edited by Nathan; 08-28-2010 at 01:30 PM.
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ADRIFT...... And everyone else. What Bobweight factor and speed (RPM) is your shop using to balance your crank? Also, I am sure they are but, make sure they are balancing the crank with the pressure plate, flywheel and crank pullie installed on the crank.
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got the block and crank back from the machine shop today. wish i had kept the torque plate to double check the clearances. guy said he threw away the paper he wrote them on and i get a difference of up to .002 depending on where i gauge it.