haha, cause 400 bucks for a set of forged rods isnt good insurance, lol. thats funny. not to mention stock rods will probably last forever with 450 hp and 500 lb ft. come on...

 

imho inexpensive rods (BC Sportsman) that include ARP fastners are the bargain of the century. If 4-500 is keeping you from doing a build, just get nitrous and when you blow your motor THEN you can get the right internals.

For my build I needed the right rods for the crank and pistons. But like you say it looks great in my sig (or will when I change it to reflect all of those things when they are actually in the car and not at a shop waiting to be assembled) AGAIN.

I have headwork and cams btw.

 

What’s another 500 when you just spent 1500 on just machine work, lol

 

Granted the VQ has forged rods to begin with, so I see his point there, but to expect the bolts to hold up to the thrashing that it requires to run aggro-cams and a high flow head is not gonna end well. Considering the rod bolts cost about a couple of hundred its almost a no brainer to get a system that is designed for the task, not to mention the recip. mass saving in some rod sets.

 

ill be honest, i thought stock rods were cast

 

That's what I was getting at.

 

You could be right, I'm going off a vague memory of something I read. I didn't bother to check when I rebuilt mine, old rods went straight in the trash.

 

I would want the better rods and bolts for higher revs for road racing. Not so much the HP. Like you said, the stock rods/bolts are good for a lot more HP, but not for revving real high.

 

so the stock rods are good for quite a bit more power? i was being sarcastic in my earlier post, so i dont know.

 

forged internals are a good decision either way if you plan on juicin your motor up...whether it be nitrous, s/c, or turbo. now if you do it to have a relatively stock motor, then why bother spendin the extra money. i had plans of putting a s/c on mine once i got tired of a measly 310rwhp lol.

and i'm moving to atl and my car wont pass smog tests with a loud *** exhaust and long tubes let alone i could use the extra money from not having a $450/mo car payment and ultimately i want a 03-04 m45 now.

 

I would assume so because there are a lot of guys on here pushing 400whp on stock rods that are FI. 400whp is quite a bit more than stock. I wouldn't say 450-500 though.

 

As for the rods being forged, I found this reference from Modified Mag, I believe this was at Sasha's shop.

"Unlike the OEM I-beam rod, which is manufactured by using powdered metal forged together in a cost-saving process called sinter forging, Pauter uses a one-piece conventional forging process."

Read more: http://www.modified.com/tech/sccp_08...#ixzz1VzD50eAW

 

Hbeam > Ibeam

is the stock crank forged?

 

Good insurance for what? When is the last time anyone threw bent a rod at stock powerlevels? You and everyone else here is missing the point: you're putting the money in the wrong places. On a non rev, I can understand upgrading the rod bolts and the oil pump, but I would be trying my damnest to also upgrade that crap called an intake plenum and use a REAL header. Cams and valvetrain would be another, and I'd probably only buy from JWT.

You don't need fancy pistons, rods, coil packs, grounding kits, hell, you don't even need headwork, but it's your money. 3 years ago a Maxima guy with .5 liters less and factory parts made almost as much power as some of "built" guys in this forum using that exact formula. So did Sasha.

I'll just wait for someone to come in and tell me how I'm wrong and how they paid 6K for 15whp. ( most of which was gained from swapping camshafts. )

 

That doesn't make any sense: Your valvetrain choice will not have an effect on your rods. RPM will, but most cams combined with the crappy intake manifold don't make much power beyond 6500-7000RPM range, why would you need to rev out much higher?

 

pistons are replaced to get more compression, and im not going for "stock" power levels, im using other power adders so forged was a no brainer. in fact, weak internals is the reason im building in the first place

 

First allow me to say, this is a build thread not a thread on the efficacy of or merits in the use of upgraded components.

Second you say you don't care, it's our money yada yada yada yet seem pretty invested in getting the point across that it is wasteful. After the second long winded post that assertion went bye bye.

Third, all of these builds are increasing displacement, that requires non oem pistons. Pistons require certain rods to go with them and the crank being used. In the case of my stroker I needed to go with the parts that work with my 88mm crank, those parts were specced by Brian Crower as designed when they made the crank. As far as a person just increasing the bore, I think while the motor is apart if you are increasing the potential of the motor it makes sense to upgrade the rods, apparently many agree as I have yet to see a build that did not "waste" (your term) the 4-500 on them (a pittance btw percentally in the scheme of an expensive build like these)

IMHO you have made your point ad nauseum and I for one would appreciate it if you would stop unless you have a constructive point to make.

 

i see your point, but lets break this down...

rod bolts - yes i agree, but for a couple hundred more i can have Hbeam rods with arp bolts.

oil pump - agree, needs to be replaced

plenum - i remember a shootout somewhere and a worked lower and spacer outperformed everything else. However, a different plen is not tough to change out later. so i guess i agree it needs to be addressed, and i disagree that the stock is worthless.

headers - agree, needs to be replaced

cams - agree, needs to be replaced

valvetrain - agree needs to be replaced

pistons - disagree, needed for compression bump and to fit the machined cylinders

rods - disagree, like stated earlier, couple hundred more and you have brand new Hbeam rods

coil packs - agree, stock is fine

grounding kit - agree, doesnt help

headwork - idk, debatable


overall, we agree most of the time

 

Tell you what, find me a dyno where higher compression pistons made power on pump gas, and I'll shut my mouth. Of course with a stroker kit you need to change out the crank, rods and pistons, but in a normal build I wouldn't have bothered, especially if I had started out with a Revup motor.

 

This thread we are in now and here:

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/2...o-nuts-42.html

And I know there are more.

BTW both of these examples are non revup.