thoughts on jwt s2?
I bought a blown engine to rebuild for a spare engine on the side. When i opened
Upthe valve covers I noticed the cams weren't stock. After measuring I found out they were jwt s2's
Does anyone have any personal experience as the performance of these cams or am actual dyno?
Thinking of putting these in a vq with full bolt ons and headers.
Upthe valve covers I noticed the cams weren't stock. After measuring I found out they were jwt s2's
Does anyone have any personal experience as the performance of these cams or am actual dyno?
Thinking of putting these in a vq with full bolt ons and headers.
Dont remember if they dynoed the S2 cams, but here is the reference:
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...m/viewall.html
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...m/viewall.html
They are rather small cams, only 256's, if you are not going to build the motor, I actually think these are a good idea, especially since they will compliment your mods nicely, should be a solid 10-15 hp and maybe a higher redline. It is a bunch of work to do cams with the motor in, but 100% doable, go for it and dont forget to get it tuned.
I don't want to go to high on the degree scale because
I dont want to raise my redline that much on a stock
Bottom end. But thank you guys fkr your input
Second question the closest tuner for osiris is an hour away
Would it be that harmful to the engine if I were to put the cam on and
Drive it there ?
Full bolt ons with no tune yet I just got the money to tune it
I dont want to raise my redline that much on a stock
Bottom end. But thank you guys fkr your input
Second question the closest tuner for osiris is an hour away
Would it be that harmful to the engine if I were to put the cam on and
Drive it there ?
Full bolt ons with no tune yet I just got the money to tune it
Bottom line: if you're not going FI, you should get the biggest cam you can afford. I have the largest of the JWTs (C8R) and enjoy them on the the long straights, like turnpike/parkway. They're no problem at all around my neighborhood or stoplight-to-stoplight. I don't drive particularly aggressive, nor do I feel like I sacrificed any low-end driveability.
If you want quick acceleration, you need revs to make power, but you need speeds of 60mph to really enjoy the purpose of larger cams, like cruising or the track.
Go big and dont forget valve springs and shims to support valvetrain at high revs.
If you want quick acceleration, you need revs to make power, but you need speeds of 60mph to really enjoy the purpose of larger cams, like cruising or the track.
Go big and dont forget valve springs and shims to support valvetrain at high revs.
Last edited by kacz07; Nov 20, 2011 at 05:18 PM.
I don't want to go to high on the degree scale because
I dont want to raise my redline that much on a stock
Bottom end. But thank you guys for your input
Second question the closest tuner for osiris is an hour away
Would it be that harmful to the engine if I were to put the cam on and
Drive it there ?
Full bolt ons with no tune yet I just got the money to tune it
I dont want to raise my redline that much on a stock
Bottom end. But thank you guys for your input
Second question the closest tuner for osiris is an hour away
Would it be that harmful to the engine if I were to put the cam on and
Drive it there ?
Full bolt ons with no tune yet I just got the money to tune it
Valve springs and shims are an extra 100 bucks for the protection.
Whats the big deal with a higher redline?
Your peak power will likely be in the same part of the powerband (6300rpm), just higher with a bigger cam. With cams, the power drop off after peak shouldnt be as drastic.
Valve springs and shims are an extra 100 bucks for the protection.
Whats the big deal with a higher redline?
Valve springs and shims are an extra 100 bucks for the protection.
Whats the big deal with a higher redline?
Ya hopefully if I ever do a full n/a build the cams will be Much more aggressive
As far as the redline I've heard the stock rods like to start snapping at
7400 rpms. Maybe my research is bad?
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A full N/A build, by JWT standards, is valve springs, shims, and cams. They would've include a more extensive parts list if their cams needed more. Why get S2s and make 5-10 more whp @ 6300rpm or C8s and make 15-20whp @ 6300rpm for the same cost? The labor is the bane of the upgrade. Why go in there twice? Classy and I have gone through this, as well as a few others, so we're giving you our expeience.
With the JWT valve springs and shims, you can easily rev to 7500rpm all day. You can get HR valve springs, too.
With the JWT valve springs and shims, you can easily rev to 7500rpm all day. You can get HR valve springs, too.
Last edited by kacz07; Nov 21, 2011 at 05:27 AM.
My redline is set at 7000 rpm, and with ALL of the work I have done, my peak power is at 6800 RPM to give you some kinda of idea of what you are looking at, and 6800 on a stock bottom end is fine.
My engine is built for well more than 7000 RPM, but unfortunately it doesn't make it there, haha
My engine is built for well more than 7000 RPM, but unfortunately it doesn't make it there, haha
Last edited by Classy; Nov 21, 2011 at 05:50 AM.
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