Hey Guys,

I'm just entertaining the idea of doing a mild NA build.

So far I'm thinking of:

Cams 262/262
Headers
Exhausts 2.5" dual
High Flow Cats or Test pipes
Plenum spacer
Valve Springs
Cold air intake
A tune with a possibility of extending the rev limit?

Motor will be pulled out and ill be doing 100% of the work. What type of power should I be expecting. The motor has 37000km's on it so its young

Thanks for any info. Will probably do a turbo setup in a years time FYI.

Ron

 

a-tons of threads on all of the above
b-zero reason to pull out an engine to do this, aside from cams a beatch to install.
c-welcome to the forum ...but youre gonna get hammered if you dont search this stuff my friend.

as for hp? Meh, maybe 245 at the wheels maybe? give or take, its a nice addition, but it aint much, the cams will be what really makes it sing.

Not much point doing valve springs right now either. If you go stroker, or FI, then maybe, but NA is a very bare bones gig on our engines.

If youre going FI in a years time, dont do ANY OF the above, ZERO point.

Youll lose it all.

 

He is right about the parts being useless with a turbo build in the future. The cams would be a ***** to do while in the car, but doable.

IF you follow through with the above build, probably 270-280 RWHP

 

ull be around 270-280 whp as he said. u can add a supercharger to this setup in the future without losing the mods.

 

Why if I go turbo will the cams not be worth while. Isn't the idea of installing cams to have the valves open for a longer duration to shove more air in the cylinder?

I don't understand why this would be bad? What am I missing?

http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...m/viewall.html

 

see above please

 

In for info.

Would it be more benficial for OP to go this route?
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4266

 

we are talking about apples, oranges, and now pears.

hes talking about a list of NA bolts ons... then mentions that he will be going FI in one year.

My point is that nearly every item in his NA list is a great idea.. if hes staying NA. They can most certainly ALL change dramatically when going to FI..

Youre talking about building a block internally now too.


One can buid a block for an NA car, but why.. its 8 grand in parts labor and install unless you do it yourself.

Add 4500 bucks to that and you can go FI and be over 500 hp to the rear wheels..

again, we are all over the map here.. OP..

i replied w some good info in your initial quote.. some reasons and some terms for you to search for.

Youre just going to ( fact) replace and waste almost 100% of those parts and money if you are serious about going FI this year, built block or not is asides the point.

If it werent so ( ie just my opinion) i wouldnt have said it.

It just is what it is.

 

Sorry for adding another unecessary factor.
Just curious to see if it'd be better for OP to invest into internals rather than bolt ons that wouldn't follow through when going into FI.

 

Cams 262/262- not the proper spec for FI car. NA and FI cams are diff for VQ,m again, can be found in searches. Headers- can be heavily affected by your choice of turbo set up, no point, diff install, minimal HP, well documented. Headders are good w FI tho, again need to matched w what you buy. Exhausts 2.5" dual- may want a single 3" High Flow Cats or Test pipes- test pipes only youll fry your cats, and no point buying now as you may have to buy a whole new rev Y pipe , you dont know if your going tt or single yetPlenum spacer- may be ok when going FIValve Springs- ok if going FICold air intake-- wont use use after going FI
A tune with a possibility of extending the rev limit?
our cars make little power past factory rev limiter. Also in many threads. Raising it allows a better window before fuel cut when youre FI if you race w hi rpms frequently.
Motor will be pulled out and ill be doing 100% of the work. What type of power should I be expecting. The motor has 37000km's on it so its young

Your right, I wasn't thinking.

Headers won't bother - wasting money if I go turbo
CAI - Useless your right again

Plenum Spacer - will buy
Cams will try to do more research still thinking I should go with these, there slightly better then stock.
Valve Springs - will buy, why not I'm in there might as well.
Exhaust would just be a cat back with test pipes (good suggestion), when going turbo I won't have to get rid of this as the down pipe from the exhaust would just go to the test pipe. I want the dual setup, always have. 2.5" per exhaust per turbo is plenty.

Now if I go with a SC then all I listed above should compliment it well. I just won't go for a supercharger cause I already had that on my previous car and it guzzles gas due to the parasiticness of a SC.

Now if I find that cams won't benefit much then i'll prolly keep her stock minus the cat-back.

 

its not necessary to go FI, no.

Its sure nice, but then youre not going to be driving your Z much anymore. PLan on having a second car for sure.

 

Already have a second car

 

um, FI is FI, but w turbo you can at least stay out of boost more yes.. i dont plan on getting more than 4-5 mpg when im in boost.

Cams are always great, but they are not cheap as ther is 4 of them.. again, for what youre doing, thers no need to ahve an engine out of your car.. zero.. until youre going FI.

 

I'll search to see what people get MPG wise, I loved the SC as it was reliable, I bought it used and put 20k on it with zero issues. yah when in boost i'm not thinking about MPG at all

If I go with the supercharger why not do cams? All the parts I listed minus the CAI would compliments a supercharger setup would it not?

BTW, thanks for the prompt responses

 

yeah but again, youd want diff cams and yes the cai would be a waste, but they are a waste anyways on our cars NA.

if you know you want an s charger, then were getting more specific then, but they are usually on the low side of power for our cars FI wise, and cost about the same to be honest.. vortech is the way to go from what i have read.. if youre thinking stillen, no way in the world.
Its the worst bang for the buck for our car FI. Zero point. Power and Stillen SC dont belong in th same sentence.

Just saying, you could save ALL this money.. buy a Powerlab single turbo kit and make 400 to the rear wheels with a good fuel set up and a tune and stock engine, cams, internals, intake, plenum etc. Stock car. 6 grand., your labor. Only have to run maybe 8 psi or so.
All Tial w Garrett or Precision Turbo BB.
Done.

Or even cheaper, buy a boosted performance kit,k they are 4600, but you still need supporting stuff.

Just saying, you can see why im trying to tell you not to do it.. becuase Ive done it..

I bought EVERYTHING NA.. and in the end... I sold it all.

 

Does this go for stock Z's with 100k miles?

 

Yah turbo is the way to go, your right. Id did the math and a turbo setup will cost less and be quicker. The SC will be more reliable granted but the turbo would be hella faster.

Thank you good sir.

 

If your going to turbo, don't bother with this stuff. N/A cams will still make more power than stock cams (boost or not) but turbo cams are better for the specific application.

The list looks fairly solid, but I'd do long tube headers and omit the need for HFC/testpipes and grab a set of JWT cams. Spend a lot of time messaging the lower manifold, and I'd be trying to figure out a way to open the neck of the upper manifold. $2500 and some elbow grease should get you more than 90% of the gain these guys spend 10K for.

 

ITBs, tuning, JWT cams and valve springs/shims, long tubes. You should be at SC numbers with power past 8000rpm.

Prob will cost you 8-9k total. Not sure of drivability in changing temps, but that would be a decent option.

 

OP I got almost identical mods except for the cam size.

The valvesprings automatically raised my revlimit to 7k rpm (non rev up)

On Dastek dyno I pulled 300bhp with Unichip tune. I got approx 20hp gain. IMO it's not worth it. I only did it since I had to rebuild my engine. But if you wanna open up the heads just to put cams and springs, forget it.