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Buying a built longblock

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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:05 AM
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Default Buying a built longblock

Hey guys. I have the opportunity to buy a built long block from someone across country, the specs are as follows:
2004 VQ35DE
bored .020 over
cosworth 11:1 forged pistons and rings
oem rods
BC stage 2 cams
ACL race bearings
new revup oil pump
HR head gasket and coolant mod
ARP head studs
All new gaskets and seals

The block was machined and spec'd at a reputable shop in Seattle under the supervision of a master tech. My main concern is the oem rods which have 62,000 miles on them. I dont plan on going FI with this motor, want to keep it n/a. I wont be racing or anything of that sort. Motor is freshly assembled and ready to drop in.

Just wanted to see what you guys think about the oem rods in this mix? How well do the rods hold up paired with a forged piston?

Last edited by Raginraj11; Sep 12, 2012 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:22 AM
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will first, if the engine was perfectly balanced and if you keep in mind that the signs of detention shows mainly on the pistons not the con rods. I see no reason why not to buy it, but only if you don't tune it to it's optimum. although, if it was my choice I would never buy it. I will be annoyed of the fact that it's stock con rods. I have no idea why someone would do that. if I'm taking the money, time, and labor to build an engine with COSWORTH pistons, I would at least throw in eagle rods just to feel safe those pistons never come cheep.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dj lizard
will first, if the engine was perfectly balanced and if you keep in mind that the signs of detention shows mainly on the pistons not the con rods. I see no reason why not to buy it, but only if you don't tune it to it's optimum. although, if it was my choice I would never buy it. I will be annoyed of the fact that it's stock con rods. I have no idea why someone would do that. if I'm taking the money, time, and labor to build an engine with COSWORTH pistons, I would at least throw in eagle rods just to feel safe those pistons never come cheep.
The engine would be tuned conservatively. Yea thats really the only thing that bothers me. He stuck with the oem rods because the motor was a side project and the motor wasnt going to be making enough power to break the rods.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:40 AM
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How much does he want for it?
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:43 AM
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Vq rods aren't that stout. I'd pass.... There are tons of wavy rod pics floatig around...
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:18 AM
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$4600 shipped from west coast to east coast.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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I'd pass it's not worth it.. keep an eye on the market place you will see something pass by.. it's just too risky.. pull out your stock on and rebuild it.. it might cost a bit more but at least you will know what the hell is going on in it..
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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^Thanks for the honest opinion. I just dont really have the time to have the current motor pulled and built because its my DD.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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I was planning on selling my built motor with 10k miles for $3k, you can find a better deal
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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wow-yea, skip.
why the F would somebody do internals and not replace the rods? smh
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Classy
I was planning on selling my built motor with 10k miles for $3k, you can find a better deal
Let me know when you decide to sell that.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:06 PM
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right, it makes no sense, even if it was a side project, the eagles don't
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PhoenixBazoli
right, it makes no sense, even if it was a side project, the eagles don't
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
I agree, eagle rods are fairly cheap but the seller and builder said the oem rods were in good shape and the motor wasnt going to be making enough power to bend the rods, hence why they stuck with them and didnt upgrade. Building my current motor will cost me about 4-5k more
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Raginraj11
I agree, eagle rods are fairly cheap but the seller and builder said the oem rods were in good shape and the motor wasnt going to be making enough power to bend the rods, hence why they stuck with them and didnt upgrade. Building my current motor will cost me about 4-5k more
I won't lie, 4.5k including shipping is a very tempting offer, for how long are you planning to keep the engine NA? and are you planning to rev high?

Last edited by PhoenixBazoli; Sep 13, 2012 at 02:23 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 04:04 AM
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How do you know the engine is in good shape?
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 04:26 AM
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I'd pass
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 05:26 AM
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You don't plan on going FI and you won't be racing.

I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?

I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.

But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.

Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Sep 13, 2012 at 05:29 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 06:13 AM
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Pass... WTF was the previous owner thinking. Other than a higher compression ratio (which puts more stress on the rods) the engine is no more stout than stock and has been manhandled by an unknown builder and who knows how well it's built -- you could have done bearings in a month and the seller will be laughing on the way to his bank.

Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.

Last edited by djamps; Sep 13, 2012 at 06:19 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by PhoenixBazoli
I won't lie, 4.5k including shipping is a very tempting offer, for how long are you planning to keep the engine NA? and are you planning to rev high?
planning on keeping the engine NA forever. I have no desire to go FI with this car. Not planning on revving high, would keep it at 7200 like it is now.

Originally Posted by 0jiggy0
How do you know the engine is in good shape?
I dont know if its in good shape, but i spoke with the guy who built the motor (builds motors for drift cars) and he basically broke down the entire build for me.

Originally Posted by Nismo350z#0310
You don't plan on going FI and you won't be racing.

I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?

I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.

But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.
I figured a used motor with low mileage would run about the same so why not get a built block for a few hundred extra.

Originally Posted by djamps
Pass... WTF was the previous owner thinking. Other than a higher compression ratio (which puts more stress on the rods) the engine is no more stout than stock and has been manhandled by an unknown builder and who knows how well it's built -- you could have done bearings in a month and the seller will be laughing on the way to his bank.

Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.
Ehh i guess you are one of the lucky ones to have a reliable oem engine lol. I on the other hand was not too lucky.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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I just wouldn't do it. Biggest advantage of a built block is the rods and it doesn't even have rods. Unless he could throw in some rods for cheap with the deal or atleast install them cheap while the engine's sitting out, I just wouldn't do it. Like other people said, we don't know what has happened to that engine. For all we know....


Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Sep 13, 2012 at 12:30 PM.
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