Buying a built longblock
Hey guys. I have the opportunity to buy a built long block from someone across country, the specs are as follows:
2004 VQ35DE
bored .020 over
cosworth 11:1 forged pistons and rings
oem rods
BC stage 2 cams
ACL race bearings
new revup oil pump
HR head gasket and coolant mod
ARP head studs
All new gaskets and seals
The block was machined and spec'd at a reputable shop in Seattle under the supervision of a master tech. My main concern is the oem rods which have 62,000 miles on them. I dont plan on going FI with this motor, want to keep it n/a. I wont be racing or anything of that sort. Motor is freshly assembled and ready to drop in.
Just wanted to see what you guys think about the oem rods in this mix? How well do the rods hold up paired with a forged piston?
2004 VQ35DE
bored .020 over
cosworth 11:1 forged pistons and rings
oem rods
BC stage 2 cams
ACL race bearings
new revup oil pump
HR head gasket and coolant mod
ARP head studs
All new gaskets and seals
The block was machined and spec'd at a reputable shop in Seattle under the supervision of a master tech. My main concern is the oem rods which have 62,000 miles on them. I dont plan on going FI with this motor, want to keep it n/a. I wont be racing or anything of that sort. Motor is freshly assembled and ready to drop in.
Just wanted to see what you guys think about the oem rods in this mix? How well do the rods hold up paired with a forged piston?
Last edited by Raginraj11; Sep 12, 2012 at 07:09 AM.
will first, if the engine was perfectly balanced and if you keep in mind that the signs of detention shows mainly on the pistons not the con rods. I see no reason why not to buy it, but only if you don't tune it to it's optimum. although, if it was my choice I would never buy it. I will be annoyed of the fact that it's stock con rods. I have no idea why someone would do that. if I'm taking the money, time, and labor to build an engine with COSWORTH pistons, I would at least throw in eagle rods just to feel safe those pistons never come cheep.
will first, if the engine was perfectly balanced and if you keep in mind that the signs of detention shows mainly on the pistons not the con rods. I see no reason why not to buy it, but only if you don't tune it to it's optimum. although, if it was my choice I would never buy it. I will be annoyed of the fact that it's stock con rods. I have no idea why someone would do that. if I'm taking the money, time, and labor to build an engine with COSWORTH pistons, I would at least throw in eagle rods just to feel safe those pistons never come cheep.
I'd pass it's not worth it.. keep an eye on the market place you will see something pass by.. it's just too risky.. pull out your stock on and rebuild it.. it might cost a bit more but at least you will know what the hell is going on in it..
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right, it makes no sense, even if it was a side project, the eagles don't
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
right, it makes no sense, even if it was a side project, the eagles don't
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
cost that much and tough enough to keep an NA build running for good
I agree with building your own engine
you might have to put your daily driver on hold for a while but it well worth the wait
use the bus, or lend your dad's car lol
I agree, eagle rods are fairly cheap but the seller and builder said the oem rods were in good shape and the motor wasnt going to be making enough power to bend the rods, hence why they stuck with them and didnt upgrade. Building my current motor will cost me about 4-5k more 
Last edited by PhoenixBazoli; Sep 13, 2012 at 02:23 AM.
You don't plan on going FI and you won't be racing.
I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?
I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.
But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.
I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?

I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.
But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Sep 13, 2012 at 05:29 AM.
Pass... WTF was the previous owner thinking. Other than a higher compression ratio (which puts more stress on the rods) the engine is no more stout than stock and has been manhandled by an unknown builder and who knows how well it's built -- you could have done bearings in a month and the seller will be laughing on the way to his bank.
Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.
Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.
Last edited by djamps; Sep 13, 2012 at 06:19 AM.
I dont know if its in good shape, but i spoke with the guy who built the motor (builds motors for drift cars) and he basically broke down the entire build for me.
You don't plan on going FI and you won't be racing.
I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?
I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.
But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.
I'm trying to figure out why your getting a built engine then?

I was going to say the weakest part of the VQ (and usually the first to blow) is the OEM rods. So buying a "built" motor with OEM rods would be like going deep sea diving without an air tank. It makes 0 sense.
But then again, you won't be doing FI or racing. So I guess it doesn't matter.

Pass... WTF was the previous owner thinking. Other than a higher compression ratio (which puts more stress on the rods) the engine is no more stout than stock and has been manhandled by an unknown builder and who knows how well it's built -- you could have done bearings in a month and the seller will be laughing on the way to his bank.
Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.
Find a used OEM longblock with OEM reliability for half the price.
I just wouldn't do it. Biggest advantage of a built block is the rods and it doesn't even have rods. Unless he could throw in some rods for cheap with the deal or atleast install them cheap while the engine's sitting out, I just wouldn't do it. Like other people said, we don't know what has happened to that engine. For all we know....
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Sep 13, 2012 at 12:30 PM.


