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Well, upon further inspection of the car... **** is still ****ed.. but its mostly fixed besides this stuff that cant be. paint, curb-rash ect... back to the build though.. The header on the passenger side was cracked so I re- welded the flange, it should hold for now until the DC's get here (these are the free headers that came with the car, no clue on the brand guessing topspeed or megan but the DC's are in the mail) Here are some pics of rebuilding the Clutch master and slave, i seriously reccomend you guys doing this every time you do a clutch job the difference is incredible and the parts are 50 bucks and only takes about two hours to do.. c'mon now. Heres some pics from the clutch job and some of the head porting i forgot to include.
makin those transitions smooth as possible
didnt touch anything else besides the cast marks along the sides of the intake tracts and where the seats meet the tract
all done
done and done
stainless steel line, wrapping in heat wrap.. zip ties wont be melting that far from the exhaust
uhh, old clutch line was jacked
ok... so the slave cylinder piston was missing half of its spring? yeah i dont ask questions round here... do your thing Z.
Ew, Muddy Master clutch cylinder.
the, wtf ring that holds the guts into the clutch master
Clean the clutch master, and re assemble!
Park your car at a train station in Venice, Italy
Have Euro plates on your car, but actually need them...
Well, upon further inspection of the car... **** is still ****ed.. but its mostly fixed besides this stuff that cant be. paint, curb-rash ect... back to the build though.. The header on the passenger side was cracked so I re- welded the flange, it should hold for now until the DC's get here (these are the free headers that came with the car, no clue on the brand guessing topspeed or megan but the DC's are in the mail) Here are some pics of rebuilding the Clutch master and slave, i seriously reccomend you guys doing this every time you do a clutch job the difference is incredible and the parts are 50 bucks and only takes about two hours to do.. c'mon now. Heres some pics from the clutch job and some of the head porting i forgot to include.
makin those transitions smooth as possible
didnt touch anything else besides the cast marks along the sides of the intake tracts and where the seats meet the tract
all done
done and done
stainless steel line, wrapping in heat wrap.. zip ties wont be melting that far from the exhaust
uhh, old clutch line was jacked
ok... so the slave cylinder piston was missing half of its spring? yeah i dont ask questions round here... do your thing Z.
Ew, Muddy Master clutch cylinder.
the, wtf ring that holds the guts into the clutch master
Clean the clutch master, and re assemble!
Park your car at a train station in Venice, Italy
Have Euro plates on your car, but actually need them...
As soon as the headers, Intake spacer, and E-tune get here ill get started on them.. In the meantime theres still some other small things to do on this car that'll be done next weekend. Lower ball joint drivers side, Rear differential bushings, stainless steel brake lines and poly front suspension kit. (i know tha t stuff doesnt really belong here but, i hope you guys dont mind)
What exactly did you do to take out and clean the clutch master?
do some acrobatics to get your head at your pedals, take out the two bolts that mount the master cylinder to the firewall, then remove the cotter pin in the rod that connects the pedal to the Master cylinder plunger. Go to engine bay side, remove hard clutch line from master, un bolt reservoir and pull it right out. If you search for Clutch master cylinder rebuild im sure theres a how- to on here. Once thats done, remove the wtf retainer clip like in the picture and all the guts will come out, take out the old, clean it and put it your new parts and your done.
For cleaning i just used brake cleaner, shop towels, tips, and a blow torch(jk)
Alright, so a few things have been happening lately. Going to hopefully try and get started on the cams tonight. There is truly a lack of good DIYs out there on how to do this but it seems pretty easy to get done so hopefully I can get this done in the span of about 12 hours which is all the time i have available to me. seems pretty easy as long as I dont hit any bad snags. Haven't done anything too crazy to the cat lately, finally got the Uprev Cable in with OSIRIS and CYPHER its a truly awesome system but thats what i was waiting on for the cam install. Everyone needs to go buy Poly differential and suspension bushings ASAP they are a godsend by the way. Oh and i broke my trans- damper bolt and an upper a arm in the past week randomly so those are getting replaced soon too.
Perhaps you could be the first to post a good DIY.
I probably will since my engine now has 49 keepers in it for now im not kidding either. Couldn't find it, not in the oil pan and blew out the cylinder heads.. nothing. so yall need to say a prayer for me... like lots of them.. im just really trying to find an excuse to build another motor apparently. Pics and DIY on the way.. car is almost finished timing chains just need to go back on and button her back up only about four hours worth of work, probably be done wednesday by the latest. the shop only allows me to work on my car saturdays 9-5.
Alright, boys and girls.. ladies and gents. The end all be all.. just kidding... im not good at making DIY's, spelling, or grammars so this probably wont be great and I move pretty quick while Im working also so when i stop to take pictures they may be bad quality and yeah im a shitbag.
Couple things first.
1. Make sure you have the proper tools, please. Before you start anything, the very first thing you need to do is try and bust the crank pulley bolt loose cause if all you have is a 3 foot breaker and you've already taken off your upper/ lower intake, valve covers, pulleys, alternator, power steering pump, lower oil pan, radiator and whatever else and you cant break that loose with what you have available to you; you just wasted 4-8 hours of your time. Just to give you guys an idea my crank pulley has claimed a 1/2" to 3/8 adaptor and 1-19mm impact socket.Those didn't work so I had to use a 5/8" impact cranked to 150psi to break mine loose, Im sure not everyone has access to that kinda firepower. Moral of the story make sure you have the right tools, and don't ever ****ing use red locktight on a crank pulley bolt.
2. When you split the timing cover, make sure you have a paint pen to make your own markings with... Im not sure how my motor ran with what i was looking at but somehow it did (it didnt look right) and i was confused as ****. Im going to put it back the way the FSM states (if possible) or i will resort to going back to my markings.
Anyway expect to spend 12-16 hours on this if your swapping valve springs out too. Thats a no-**** from the time you pull in to the time you pull out estimate.
Disclaimer: If you **** your **** up, suck it up im not going to do anything about it cause I aint liable for it.
STEP ONE
Remove Cold air intake (you dont need pictures for this)
Remove Upper intake plenum, Vaccum hoses/Coolant Lines for throttle Body(underside)
Unbolt (6) Bolts in Middle of lower plenum and (2) outer bolts and remove Vaccum lines.
****I took the time here to port match to my gaskets cause it was atrocious, up to you for the free horsepower
rounding out the holes to match the gaskets
smothing out the casting in the runners
*****
Un-clip intake cam solenoids
Un-Bolt all six Coil-Packs
Un-Clip Air Conditioning Compressor electrical connection (its close to your MAF sensor on the main wiring loom)
Un-bolt all brackets and zip ties holding wiring harness to the motor
Now at this point there should be nothing connected to the wiring harness and you should be able to flip it back and put it out of the way at the base of the windshield.
Remove spark plugs.
Remove valve-covers (10) bolts on each I believe, Remove Vaccum Lines attaching them.
All done with the top for now.
STEP TWO
Drain Oil
Drain Coolant
Detach Lower Rad-Hose
Un-Plug radiator fans (2) plugs
Remove Lower oil Pan bolts, slide seal cutter in there cause that SOB is not coming off without some motivation. Remove the (2) or (TWO) FORWARD MOST BOLTS.
Remove Upper Rad Hose
Remove Over-flow tank
Remove (2) screws bolting radiator fans to radiator (top corners of radiator fan mount brackets)
***EDIT: IF YOU HAVE A/C and really need the condensor and radiator out of the way to get an impact on the crank pulley or for whatever reason or you just want to know; the correct action is this:
OR:A/c delete?
FINE, I get it, you don't have a racecor... but in that case why are you in this thread?
Buy these and figure out they don't work, they are supposed to be to release the QD fittings on our ac lines that are located along the drivers frame-rail.
You clip them on to the ac QD area and slide them into the fitting and it unlocks them, vent the R134 to the atmosphere because racecar and lets keep moving.
***EDIT:
Pull out radiator fans THEN
Pull out radiator and condensor
STEP THREE
If you didn't already disconnect your battery you failed this DIY before you started it.
Loosen Crank pulley *****/bolt (synonymous)
Loosen the four bolts on the idler pulley
Remove Idler pulley
Remove three bolts holding Idler Pulley on
Remove Bolts holding Belt tensioner On
Spin power steering Pulley to expose 14mm Bolt that holds it on its bracket;
Unbolt it, and loosen two bolts holding power steering bracket to side of motor (sorry no pic)
Remove Alternator bracket.
STEP FOUR
Remove ALL bolts that are NOT a 10mm BOLT from the front cover, There should be NONE left, if there are. Well, adapt and overcome and make it look like the rest and take it out.
Remove all 10mm Bolts holding front cover onto motor, double, even triple check because when you start prying you don't want to have accidentally left a bolt in and split your front cover in half. Bad ****ing day.
Start Prying. Theres some spots where your supposed to but i do my own thing, figure it out. Slide the seal cutter in- between all the way around and pry pry pry it took about 30 min for me to get mine off just for a reference.
Once **** starts poppin off, time to move on to the timing components.
STEP FIVE
Make your new marks, doesnt matter where cause if you put it back together exactly where your new marks are and they all line up, guess what? its gonna work.
Take a minute to stare, and ask yourself why you didn't just buy a turbo.. then you realized.. the same reason you don't do steroids.
Take off the Main tensioner first. I couldn't figure out the little roller thingy so I just unbolted it and let the oil out and it let the slack out, un-bolted it and there goes the chain with some slack.
main tensioner
Take off Main Tensioner Guide, The huge long guide to the left of the timing chain. Uses a hex nut near the bottom (Replace this at a minimum)
Take off the top Chain guide. (Replace this At a minimum!)
Remove Main Chain
Remove 17mm Bolts holding Intake cam gears onto intake cams. (Theres a hex on the camshafts in the valve cover area for you to stop the cam from spinning. These are pretty tight so use your gym memberships. Wiggle the Cam Gear off the camshafts now that the bolt is removed. Repeat for Other side
Remove Exhaust Gears from camshafts, Same procedure as Intake.
Remove (3 bolts) Intake Solenoids, There are then bolts under here for the half moon
Remove Front Half-Moon holding camshafts in place there are bolts coming in parallel and perpendicular to this piece. (repeat for both sides)
Remove camshaft caps a few turns at a time (KEEP IN ORDER)
Remove camshafts
Remove Camshaft Buckets (KEEP IN ORDER)
STEP FIVE
Grab your handy dandy tool from our friends at JWT (valve spring tool)
and your nylon cord. I did this by rotating the crank to BDC, feeding as much rope into the cylinder as i could and then rotating the motor till it smashes all that cord up to the combustion chamber, against the valves making sure they stay shut while we change the springs.
OR
You can just pressurize it with a leak-down tester but para-cord was free for me so.. yeah
Bolt up the tool, Lube up the threads really good, get rid of the black **** it comes with and just use a speed handle, so much faster. The valve spring changeout alone takes about 3-4 hours depending on how good you are at caressing the keepers into the valve stems. I averaged about 30 min per cylinder from the time i filled the cylinder w/ cord and bolted it up like so:
ANYWAY
Put the special bucket included with the kit that has a hole in the middle on the valve your working on.
Screw down until the keepers pop off the valve stem
Grab them with a magnet
Unscrew the valve tool
Grab the special Bucket
Pull out OEM spring Replace with JWT Spring and Shim
Put special bucket back on top and make sure the valve stem is perfectly aligned in the center, it will make your life easier when you put the keepers in and it will prevent having one jump and disappear like mine did hence why my motor now has 49 valve stem keepers
REPEAT x31
STEP SIX
Took you long enough.
Put all the buckets back in in the same orientation they came out
Place your new cams in, with some assembly lube on the contact areas. aka petroleum jelly for you nay sayers.
Put your cam caps on and hand tighten them, then start tightening each bolt two half-turns at a time in an even sequence until they are snug. After that follow the FSM for the torquing procedure. I pulled mine off All-data today and it was pretty intricate.
Time to check your clearances!! Most of yall will probably skip this, but most of the time these are also in spec. Get a feeler guage, and go look at the other page in my thread it shows you how to do it i think.
Now you can bolt your Half- Moon front cam keepers on, make sure to mimic the oem RTV that was put on it and bolt it down. Repeat (x2)
Replace the Intake Solenoids on top of the half-moons (x2)
Torque Intake and Exhaust Gear bolts to proper spec (x4)
Lay Main chain, aligning marks.
Replace top chain tensioner
Replace Main tensioner
Align Marks,
spin motor by hand; listen for anything funny and confirm timing and say a prayer that eveything will work
STEP SEVEN
Replace the Lower timing cover seal
Re-Lay RTV on back side of timing cover, Make sure you get the three spots in the middle.
I didn't replace the bolts in any particular order, i don't think it matters really. Theres rtv so its going to seal either way you replace the bolts. Replace all the 10mm bolts first, then the two in the lower oil pan.
STEP EIGHT
Congrats, from here out is everything you've done already. Go to step three and follow it from the bottom up and your all done!
new cams!
Last edited by thekyledeg; 02-28-2015 at 12:00 PM.
Reason: not done yet
your only gonna learn by doin it though bro, buy a junkyard motor to play with and you'll be a pro in no time hell im only 19 lol
Good stuff.
I'd love to but out here, just concentrating on the chassis/handling first of all.
Cams/Headers is something I'd like to do towards the end of the year though.
Nice write up OP. I have my motor tore down right now in my garage trying to change the cams amongst a few other things. I am stuck right now. I cannot get the cam sprocket bolts off on just the exhaust cams. I am having someone come over and give me a second hand today. I even hit it with an air impact and nothing. My compressor is not huge though so I could only hit it with 120lbs.
I see in you mentioned these bolts were pretty tight for you as well.
Nice write up OP. I have my motor tore down right now in my garage trying to change the cams amongst a few other things. I am stuck right now. I cannot get the cam sprocket bolts off on just the exhaust cams. I am having someone come over and give me a second hand today. I even hit it with an air impact and nothing. My compressor is not huge though so I could only hit it with 120lbs.
I see in you mentioned these bolts were pretty tight for you as well.
Mine was tight as hell as well, but a 36' breaker ball took care of that..Lol
yeah the cam sprockets as well as the crank pulley were the worst
oh and by the way guys, the headers currently on this car are ebay brand headers and upon further inspecton they aren't cracked. Theyll be replaced with the DC's that are Currently in the mail.
Last edited by thekyledeg; 03-01-2015 at 09:56 AM.
yeah the cam sprockets as well as the crank pulley were the worst
oh and by the way guys, the headers currently on this car are ebay brand headers and upon further inspecton they aren't cracked. Theyll be replaced with the DC's that are Currently in the mail.
Why replace if they are fine? I doubt you see any gains from changing them out.
Why replace if they are fine? I doubt you see any gains from changing them out.
to be honest im probably going to leave them untill i put the next motor in, since i did do a little port grinding with the headers before i put them in they cant be that bad. unless they take a **** ill leave em' in and dyno them just to see what they do. I bought the DC's just because I budgeted for them and just in case these ebay ones take a **** on me ill have something quality to put on.
02-15-2015, 09:04 AM
im not kidding either. Couldn't find it, not in the oil pan and blew out the cylinder heads.. nothing. so yall need to say a prayer for me... like lots of them.. im just really trying to find an excuse to build another motor apparently. Pics and DIY on the way.. car is almost finished timing chains just need to go back on and button her back up only about four hours worth of work, probably be done wednesday by the latest. the shop only allows me to work on my car saturdays 9-5.
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