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It's a pity you can't compare 264 to 272 ones. I'm just wondering what the difference is in terms of performance. I can't decide between 264 and 272 right now but from what I'm reading there is no point in going with 272 without the LTH. On the other hand, is it really worth going with 264 with shorties?
Yeah I wish I could've posted some tq and hp gains for the ones interested
I bet the midrange torque would be about the same but the top end torque would hold a little longer. Maybe good for 5-7 whp from 264 to 272's. Since cams are about the same price across the board, I'd recommend a 280in/272ex combo with 10.8mm of lift on both to maintain stock springs. 264 with shorty headers, hell idk. It's possible that they compliment each other just as well as a 272 and long tubes though. If you are looking to max out an NA engine though, I'm fairly certain the formula is high compression pistons, big cams, and intake manifold work. The heads flow very well (about equal to the vr38) but the upper and lower manifolds seem to start choking the engine after 5k rpm.
Originally Posted by Angrybird
Do the those cams work well with a boosted application?
There's no reason they shouldn't. The durations aren't crazy enough to lose boost pressure.
Nah man I didn't and now my windshield washer fluid light comes on every now and then. I don't even have the thing plugged in haha it doesn't bother me all that much though. Eventually I might just open up my gauge cluster and take care of all the annoying lights
Originally Posted by leozim
This might not be a priority but did you ever fix the airbag light? Thanks!!!
Learned a ton about damping settings for suspension and I think I'm on the verge of having my suspension perfectly dialed. Too stiff on the damping and the car will bounce even on small bumps. The car will also be twitchy when trying to transition at low speeds because the body weight can't shift fast enough. Too soft of damping and car will feel like it isn't responsive and might even cause a little understeer depending on the driver. Finding A lot of this stuff can be learned by googling but actually feeling the difference is what explains it the best.
I also was able to pick up an HR hood with the same paint code. Yeeeeees
In addition to the existing suspension setup and angle kit, I grabbed my angle grinder and started clearancing the knuckle to see how far I could turn the wheels. They go quite a bit now
Removed the speaker deck to make more room for a cage in the future
Best decision ever. So much room for activities!
Cool video some guys put together of the last drift event here in town
Sadly, the bend I made to make clearance for the roof is not FD legal So I had to cut them out and weld in straight pieces which wasted a little material
I CAN'T WAIT to finish this thing, clean everything out, and bolt the seat back down
With the rear section complete and the door bars tacked in place, I was able to move this whole part of the cage forward and reach the tight spots for the main hoop/door bar welds that would normally be impossible to reach.
After tacking both side hoops in and welding as much as possible to the roof brace, I was able to break the tacks on the main hoop and door bar and move this whole thing down and once again get the tight spots
With all of the hard spots done, it was finally time to weld in everything else
I am somewhat ashamed at how the main hoop base plates came out
Nice work, why are the OEM seat belts still in place
Short answer, convenience
I'm going to get 5 point harnesses since they are a requirement for the stuff I plan to take the car too. It's just nice being able to drive the car when I feel like and strap in quickly
