Invoice on the 2006 Track model is at $32,983 for the car w/ options. Dealer quoted me a price of $33,783. Is this a good price? If not, then how much do you guys think I can haggle him down to? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

offer 32,500.

 

If you haven't talked to a salesman. Talk to the Internet Sales Manager.

I was able to get mine for $500 under invoice. That was on a Base. There is a lot more room in the Track Version or a Fully Loaded version. $32,500 should be obtainable if you go through the Internet Sales Manager.
If not email another dealers Internet Manager and let him know what your willing to do.

Worked for me. Found the one I wanted in stock on line then emailed Internet Manager. He made the offer of invoice. I said nah, how about $500 under. He was humm, I can do that.

I went down and wrote the check that afternoon.

 

$500 below invoice.
use Carmax.com's new car search. It's not a track model but similiar price for comparison http://www.carmax.com/dyn/factsheet/factsheet.aspx
most $32k invoice Z cars are selling for about $500 below invoice. Also, another Maryland dealer offer $500 below invoice on coupes and $250 below on roadsters.

 

The key here is research. I had a 2004 track z that just recently got wrecked. So i started researching the z. I decided to go with a roadster this time. I contacted many internet sales managers and asked them straight up whats the best they can do on price and i will pick up today.Its really crazy how some dealers pricing varies. I finally talked to a cool internet manager at mossy nissan and told him i use to sell cars(which is another lie hahaha).He said he would give me a roadster Gt for $653 under invoice. I was like ok can you send me a email so i can convince my wifey(i have no wife hahaha).Now keep in mind that im about 1 hour away from mossy and i really didnt want a Gt but rather a enthusiast since im going to mod the hell out of it.

Ok here when it gets better i then contacted a local nissan in my area and asked the internet sales manager why she is asking $400 over invoice (for enthusiast model)while mossy is giving me $650 under invoice and if i buy it today he will make it a even $800 under invoice($800 was BS hahaha but she bit). She asked me for proof and i said sure let me forward you this email.I then said to her if you can match their $800 offer go ahead and wash it i will be there in 1 hour. Sure enough they had to live up to thier tag line that they will never be undersold hahahahaa. i ended up with a 06 roadster interlagos 6mt. Sticker was $36,665 and i got it for $33,000. Sorry for the long story but make sure you call many dealers and get quotes and most dealers will match price if you have proof.

 

thanks for the info sbcbaseball. what was your final out the door price though? cuz i heard some people end up paying BS fees and wut not.

 

My final out the door price was $36,000 or so.This includes tax and license.Now to get out of all the BS fees that the loan person will try to sell you, all you have to do is tell him that you plan to get the car turbo'd. Then ask him that if his extended warranties cover that then you have no problem buying some .lol...They will also try to push gap insurance. If you want to get out of that just tell them that you track your car and as we all know, no insurance covers track accidents. Good luck Bud...

 

These BS fees are going to depend on your transaction. The situation is going to dictate if it makes sense or not. Granted, the dealership's F&I manager is going to try to charge way too much for some of these add ons, but some of them definitely make quite a bit of sense.

Take GAP insurance for instance. For someone that has insurance that pays off the loan (most policies pay off the value of it), is putting a large sum of money down, or has quite a bit of equity on a trade, then GAP is definitely BS.

However; this situation is not the more common one. Most people end up being quite a bit upside down as soon as he or she drives off the lot. In that situation, then GAP makes tons of sense. Hopefully, it would never be used, but that $200 or so charge is well worth it if something does happen.

Extended warranties are not as cut and dry. Some people love them, some people think they are a waste of money. This is a personal preference, but for someone that does want one, the actual cost of them is quite a bit less then what they are quoted. For instance, in my area the actual cost of a 84,000/7 year top warranty on a new 350Z is around $869.

Credit life I think is a waste of money personally.

Good luck!

 

+1 for $400 below invoice here...

 

Got my '05 Track for $500 under invoice. Total was approx. $35700 OTD.

 

About the GAP insurance I agree completely, also, for extended warantee's I agree as well. But I personally know two people who would have been in a world of hurt without the Life coverage on their property.

My grandmother bought a new luxury Buick for about $30k, she was upside down on her old car because it was only 6-7mo old. So out the door she financed about $40k after the trade and TTL. 2mo later she found out she had cancer and only lived another 7mo. My father was the sole benificiary...he got the car clean and free because of the Life coverage.

Also, one of my friends had started a busness, it was about 5 years after he started the business that he took a motorcycle out for a joy ride...got t-boned and died instantly. He had a home loan, his business loan and three car loans. The cars had life coverage, the busness and house did not. His wife was forced to sell two cars and the busness to get out of debt from the business. If the cars didn't have life coverage she'd be MUCH worse off now. The fact that his wife helped at the businees and didn't have a seperate job also hurt, they were young and self employed, so he had no life insurance...AND his wife had to search for a new job while grieving her late husband so she could pay the house payment.

Get life coverage, you never know when it may be needed...

 

That's a couple unfortunate circumstances. Just like anything, I would agree that it's not as cut and dry as my original response. As a single person, it makes 0 sense for me. However; I could see it making some sense for an older couple, or a younger couple just starting a family where one individual works. You just never know.

Gap was the main point of my initial response anyway. In fact, for most, I think it's a must have for the relative small cost associated with it (cost is around $200 or so with 150% value coverage). Granted, dealerships are insane on the price they charge for their "extras", but some make a lot of sense. One just has to be careful on how much they pay for it. I am not saying I noticed anyone around here that did it or even talking about anyone, but it seems a lot of people fight hard on the front end, and then flop when they get to the F&I office. Dealerships make a killing in there by charging points, profit on warranties, and extras.

The one total BS charge I think is stuff like fabric protection, etc.

 

If you are not upside down in a car, then gap insurance is a waste of money.

It only good if you have a loan for more than the car is worth. Best thing to do is pay for cars in cash. If you can't do that then, make sure you put enough down so you’re not in that situation.

However, I know that some people are starting out and need a car. I would recommend to purchase within their means.

Finally, if you have to have that car and you are upside down; get gap insurance to stop the further slide into the credit abyss.

I know this sounds a bit harsh. But please take it from someone that's been caught up in it before gap insurance was offered. Leased cars are the quickest way to this end.

If you are considering buying a car from a dealer with cash. Find out what his price is if he gives you for buying the car on credit. Sometimes it's lower than when he sells it to you for cash because of the kick-backs he gets from the banks etc... Make sure the loan doesn't have any pre-payment clauses. Also, check those admin fees to make sure you don't end up spending an extra couple of hundred there.

 

Good point regarding paying for cash. The so-called advantage for a dealership to do a cash deal is in fact false. There is more money for them to finance the loan as you stated.

As far as gap, you are definitely right and that's already been stated regarding if it makes sense. However; the vast majority of the car buying public doesn't pay cash or heck, even have a large enough down payment to compensate for the depreciation a new car has the first couple years of ownership. Based on over 4 years of experience, this equates to a low percentage of the buying public (it is more common at a foreign dealership then American though in my experience). Does that mean that most people are living outside of their means? Not necessarily. What it means is that cars have gotten more and more expensive, and we live in a society that's based on credit (and the terms are getting longer, which compounds this problem). I am not saying that's the right way to do things. I am not even touching that subject, but I am saying is the vast majority of people don't fall into the situation of having positive equity when they leave the dealership. This could be someone buying "the" car, or someone buying a new Pontiac that plummets in value the first year of ownership (a new 2004 Pontiac Grand Am was around 18K sticker. Had roughly 2K in markup, and lost about 50% of value in the first year). That isn't necessarily "the" car, but the neg. equity sitation still applies.

For that reason, the majority of people that are purchasing cars should STRONGLY consider gap insurance. Just don't pay too much for it.

 

Good points. I 100% agree. I also will hold my thoughts on living within your means. We'll leave that for another topic. That is not the main point I wish to make. I just wanted to confirm and support the fact that not everyone NEEDS gap insurance.

 

That's definitely a much broader topic, because living within your means is different for everyone. As a single guy with no kids, I can obviously afford to spend more on my house, my car, etc., then someone that makes the same salary and has those concerns, but that's really not the point we are talking about.

As far as gap, we are definitely on the same page.

 

Thanks for all the great info guys.

 

Interesting that your post (and similar posts) never state the MSRP. Why would anyone leave out such an important fact?