Just wanted to drop in, say hello.

350z Track, Daytona Blue, W/Leather, No Nav as I will be throwing in a audio system...

Had it for about a week now, slapped on 700miles already.

It's been a pleasure, I've been an american muscle car driver until now, 67 Olds 442(400), 68 Charger 383, 69 Charger 440, and currently assmebling a 68 Charger RT.

I've driven just about everything out there, and no doubt about it, kick *** ride.

I'm in San Fernando, Ca (southern california) looking for any real tips and suggestions.

Thanks people

 

Hey, congrats on your new Z and welcome to the forum. I'm sure you will get lots of tips and suggestions here, whether you want them or not! There's some really good threads, too, that you can find by doing searches, such as washing the car, tires, oil changes, audio, tinting, etc.

See you on the forum.
WayneTN

 

Alright people...

Got over 2400 miles in less than 3 weeks actual available driving days.

Car does 147 very nicely, smokes Bmw Z4 just as well, I wish it had been an M-series, like the first one that wanted to play during breakin... Oh well guess you can't have it all.

I ran into a hiccup, the computer seems to be "confused" and has retracted into safety mode by disabling ABS/VDC etc...etc...

Waiting on response from Japan to the local dealer ship, we'll see I guess.

The car audio installation is under way, if there is anyone in the San Fernando Valley, that wants their car stereo system be it just a deck, or complete make over... Let me know, I have the right place for you.

I'll check back in later... thanks again

 

cool man. seems like you have driven a lot. i will be getting my soon or so says the dealer.........

 

Ya those Z4's are easy pickins! But i wouldn't want to go against a M right now. Those things are BAD!! Do some mods first. ECU, Intake, Exhaust & maybe headers too, ya, ya, Headers!! Have fun!!!

 

Well as I said I ran into a M3, but I was only 400/500 miles into break in, (not that I hadn't pushed it during this time, just not bad) and so we did the whole On Ramp (this was a downhill one) and so I took every gear through 5.5K, and I was pulling away from him until I missed 3rd and hit 5th (I know... I know....) so in that same second I got back to 3rd he caught me and from there through 6th he was like my trailer....

You gotta understand guys this is my first "rice rocket" until now I have been driving my own American Muscle cars, or other peoples performance cars Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes 5/600, etc...etc...

So I wasn't used to the incredible shiftting process in the Z, I bought this car because I knew I wanted what it had to offer, and I wanted to drive the hell out of it, which I am!

Thanks again.

 

I have 6000+ on my red track and have not experienced any glitches. I was shocked when the computer (tcs/vdc) shut down the throttle temporarily until the computer agreed that the car was not really out of control. Is this the kind of difficulty you are experiencing with your 'confused' computer? or something more permanent.

 

Oh yea.... defintely more "concerning" than the "safety cushion" effect from the computer.

Real quickly, a little background on me, I am a technologically inclined individual, been in computing, networking, and electronics all my life, so I understand how all this crap works.

Also I have been rebuilding engines and cars (american) for over 10 years.

What has happened in my opinion, is the sensor(s) are fouled up and need to be reset. This may have been my fault due to the 100+ MPH driving in the torrential rain we had here in Southern California a little over a week ago.

I found some "silt" up inside the engine compartment, which means it's prolly made its way into the various knooks (sp?) and crannies it shouldn't be in.

took it do the dealer, the plugged it in, and they have a ton of error codes they sent to Japan. I was waiting a few days for a response and the response is "get the car back to the dealer, and we'll talk about it then."

Anyhow the current "visible" state is the VDC/ABS/Service Engine Soon lights are ALL on, and they come and go at random.

In this state, what happens sometimes when braking, is the ABS starts to cycle on and off as if it requires ABS for "nothing". Then it complete turns on the light and turns off ABS.

When those lights are on, I have NO VDC or ABS which I have tested by spining the car around and slamming on the breaks.

The car spins, and the brakes lock up. Hence they are disabled as to not to interfere with the cars ability to drive "normally" and unassisted.

However I had an appointment to get my car into a car audio shop for a full makeover, and I couldn't delay that. So now in about a week I will get my car back from the audio shop, and send it over to my local dealer.

I'm sure it just needs to be reset/recalibrated or something along those lines.

Joe

 

Whoa... sounds like you've got quite a list of electrical gremlins. IIRC, each time you start your 350, it goes through a pretty extensive diagnostic process. You can reset the ECU by unplugging the battery for over 24 hours.

You can also do a self-diagnostic, get any error codes, and clear them yourself. The procedure is listed in the service manual. I'd post it, but I'm in a hurry. Do a search on the forum for the procedure or maybe somebody else can post it.

I know it costs me $80 each time to plug my 350 up to the CONSULT tool at a Nissan dealer.

Michael.

BTW, nice collection of Mopars.

 

Hey Joe, want to head over to the shop to see how things are going with your car?

 

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Thanks for the information, well my battery has been unplugged for several days as it is right now, so if that's all it takes then I guess I'm ready to go!

Thanks also for the comment on the Mopars, don't forget the Oldsmobile though... That is the true love of my life (mechnically speaking) it's been there all my life and has been a part of many milestones in my time.

I'll be in touch

 

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Hey Dan! I'm going to check on it later today, but as we already spoke you know that I checked in on them yesterday and everything is "good".

I'll catchya later

 

Alright, I'm back from indoor cart racing. If you want to perform a self-diagnostic, read error codes, and clear them, this is from the service manual:

How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).

DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE II — SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS
In this mode, the DTC and 1st trip DTC are indicated by the number of blinks of the MIL as shown below.
The DTC and 1st trip DTC are displayed at the same time. If the MIL does not illuminate in diagnostic test
mode I (Malfunction warning), all displayed items are 1st trip DTCs. If only one code is displayed when the MIL
illuminates in diagnostic test mode II (SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS), it is a DTC; if two or more codes are
displayed, they may be either DTCs or 1st trip DTCs. DTC No. is same as that of 1st trip DTC. These unidentified
codes can be identified by using the CONSULT-II or GST. A DTC will be used as an example for how to
read a code.
A particular trouble code can be identified by the number of four-digit numeral flashes. The “zero” is indicated
by the number of ten flashes. The length of time the 1,000th-digit numeral flashes on and off is 1.2 seconds
consisting of an ON (0.6-second) - OFF (0.6-second) cycle.
The 100th-digit numeral and lower digit numerals consist of a 0.3-second ON and 0.3-second OFF cycle.
A change from one digit numeral to another occurs at an interval of 1.0-second OFF. In other words, the later
numeral appears on the display 1.3 seconds after the former numeral has disappeared.
A change from one trouble code to another occurs at an interval of 1.8-second OFF.
In this way, all the detected malfunctions are classified by their DTC numbers. The DTC “0000” refers to no
malfunction. (See EC-8, "INDEX FOR DTC" )

How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
The DTC can be erased from the back up memory in the ECM by depressing accelerator pedal. Refer to EC-
73, "How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)" .

If the battery is disconnected, the DTC will be lost from the backup memory after approx 24 hours.

Be careful not to erase the stored memory before starting trouble diagnoses.

Engine error codes are standard OBD-II error codes that you can find anywhere on the net. Or if, you're seriously lazy, then I think AutoZone will plug an OBD-II scanner to your 350 and do a diagnostic for free. The diagnostic port should be under the hood release or VDC/TCS button. But, something tells me you've got a higher problem than just OBD-II error codes. *shrug*

Are all your cars fully restored? I knew a guy w/ a 300ZX twin turbo that was also restoring a 442. It was a work in progress, but it was nice, no doubt. I'd love to have a classic muscle car or two. If I ever get more garage space, I might have restore one.

Michael.

 

How'd that go?

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Thanks for the excellent info!



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Are all your cars fully restored? I knew a guy w/ a 300ZX twin turbo that was also restoring a 442. It was a work in progress, but it was nice, no doubt. I'd love to have a classic muscle car or two. If I ever get more garage space, I might have restore one.

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The 68, 383, 4 speed, factory air, is not "restored" but "original" with a lot of maintenance, and a couple paint jobs, this is the nicest of them at the moment.

The 67 Olds, is currently derelict, it used to be "nice" but a few years after high school, and a half dozen engines later, I stowed it and let it fall apart, it's next on the rack in about a year or so.

the 69, 440, auto, w factory air, is not beautiul like the first car, but it's "clean" and straight, and hauls ***

The 68, 440, RT, 4 speed, no air, is currently on the chopping block and rack, should be done with it in 6 months, it will be nicer than the first 68, and worth considerably more due to the RT.

We are taking apart the 68 rt 'kit' car to restore the original 68 rt.

Muscle cars rock for the simple fact that you can work on them at will, and when something goes wrong there is usually something you can do about it....

thanks again

 

bump