Finally got a Z!
UPDATE:
Finally purchased the Z of my dreams! In only two days, I have driven through 1.5 tanks of gas to get used to how a RWD car handles, aka drifting it (in an open lot with no one around, don't worry). My WRX may have +60whp more than the Z, but nothing can compare to the fun, sporty feel of a Z.
Original OP
Hey guys and gals. My name is Mike and I'm from the southern end of New York. Currently I'm driving a 2012 WRX and before that, I was driving a toyota '99 camry. I graduated college July 2012 with a BA in Computer Science with a minor in Business Administration. Since then, I have been working full-time as a Java developer for UPS, which I used to purchase a 2012 WRX along with a "few" mods... This car is my DD and it makes me enjoy commuting to work every morning on route 87. So far, I have put 25k miles onto the car because I drive 30 miles to/from work and I also bring it to meets and take spirited drives on occassion.
Here are the list of my current mods:
Invidia Q300 catback
Invidia catted DP w/ heatwrap
Grimmspeed Turbo Heatshield
COBB SF Intake w/ airbox
Kartboy SS w/ bushings
Process West TMIC
OEM Port-n-Polish exhaust manifold (aka a 3-piece "header")
Turbosmart BPV
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
Grimmspeed MBC (to run hybrid boost control setup)
Group-N Motor/Tranny mounts
Kartboy Pitch Stop
Grimmspeed UP w/ 38mm flange
38mm Tial Wastegate
Grimmspeed IWG bracket
Deastchwerks 65c Fuel Pump
ID 1000cc injectors (for e85 fun)
Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift bushings
Feal 441 coilovers
24mm front 22mm rear Whiteline sway bars
Recent pic after washing cars with my subiebro:

Crappy env3 cellphone pics of my ride:





Engine bay:

Enkei PF01 wheels 17x8

Since I bought the car, I have blown a ringland on cylinder #4 (stock internals don't like 23psi... who knew
) and my transmission went on me twice for unknown reasons. Somehow my clutch exploded and took out my 5th gear
Since then, I have drastically de-tuned my car to 17psi which set me back about 40whp/55wtq to avoid breaking more parts. Now that my WRX is a sedate daily driver, I'm looking at purchasing a 2006-07 350z as a weekend car. I joined back in August in order to lurk threads for information, which is what lead me to deciding on the 2007-08 year as opposed to whatever year I can find. Some of the reasons:
vq35hr (2006 has the oil-burning "rev up" motor from what I've read)
cd009 transmission (hopefully won't have synchro issues...)
OEM hids (06+ are teh secks)
updated interior
less "wear and tear" than most older models
other minor factory "fixes" from previous models
With that being said, I truly cannot wait until I find my dream Z. I still feel like I have plenty of research to do before I just dive right in, so I'm thinking that I won't own a Z until february of next year. Sorry for the super long intro
Finally purchased the Z of my dreams! In only two days, I have driven through 1.5 tanks of gas to get used to how a RWD car handles, aka drifting it (in an open lot with no one around, don't worry). My WRX may have +60whp more than the Z, but nothing can compare to the fun, sporty feel of a Z.
Original OP
Hey guys and gals. My name is Mike and I'm from the southern end of New York. Currently I'm driving a 2012 WRX and before that, I was driving a toyota '99 camry. I graduated college July 2012 with a BA in Computer Science with a minor in Business Administration. Since then, I have been working full-time as a Java developer for UPS, which I used to purchase a 2012 WRX along with a "few" mods... This car is my DD and it makes me enjoy commuting to work every morning on route 87. So far, I have put 25k miles onto the car because I drive 30 miles to/from work and I also bring it to meets and take spirited drives on occassion.
Here are the list of my current mods:
Invidia Q300 catback
Invidia catted DP w/ heatwrap
Grimmspeed Turbo Heatshield
COBB SF Intake w/ airbox
Kartboy SS w/ bushings
Process West TMIC
OEM Port-n-Polish exhaust manifold (aka a 3-piece "header")
Turbosmart BPV
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
Grimmspeed MBC (to run hybrid boost control setup)
Group-N Motor/Tranny mounts
Kartboy Pitch Stop
Grimmspeed UP w/ 38mm flange
38mm Tial Wastegate
Grimmspeed IWG bracket
Deastchwerks 65c Fuel Pump
ID 1000cc injectors (for e85 fun)
Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift bushings
Feal 441 coilovers
24mm front 22mm rear Whiteline sway bars
Recent pic after washing cars with my subiebro:

Crappy env3 cellphone pics of my ride:





Engine bay:

Enkei PF01 wheels 17x8

Since I bought the car, I have blown a ringland on cylinder #4 (stock internals don't like 23psi... who knew
vq35hr (2006 has the oil-burning "rev up" motor from what I've read)
cd009 transmission (hopefully won't have synchro issues...)
OEM hids (06+ are teh secks)
updated interior
less "wear and tear" than most older models
other minor factory "fixes" from previous models
With that being said, I truly cannot wait until I find my dream Z. I still feel like I have plenty of research to do before I just dive right in, so I'm thinking that I won't own a Z until february of next year. Sorry for the super long intro
Last edited by Mr Wrex; Nov 26, 2013 at 09:40 AM. Reason: added pic of my new Z
So just a little update... I feel a little pathetic for being the first/only respondant to my intro thread, but I think I found my dream Z and I will be checking it out sunday. It's a 2007 350z wrapped in a beautiful coat of San Marino Blue Pearl. If everything checks out mechanically/aesthetically, I will be the proud new owner of a 350z come next week!
On a side note, is it sad that I already have a mod list ready before I even have the car?
On a side note, is it sad that I already have a mod list ready before I even have the car?
I wasted my time checking that car. 2.5 hours later, I arrived in connecticut and I was instantly disappointed when I saw the scratched/chipped exterior. SMBP looks so amazing in person, but this 350z had so many chips that it completely threw off the color. The previous owner(s) literally must have went out of their way to dig their keys into the door every time they opened the door. On top of that, the aftermarket clutch was already slipping with only 30k miles on it and the 2nd gear synchro was shot (on a cd009 tranny might I add). It may have been $13.4k, but for a 116k mile car that didn't even have the timing belt/chain changed.... I passed and went home. There's one more by my office and I may check it out tomorrow, but after today's MASSIVE disappointment I may just give up until the summer lol
Last edited by Mr Wrex; Nov 18, 2013 at 09:11 AM.
It's a timing chain but I always refer to it as a timing belt. It's a bad habit of mine I suppose.
Also, I was doing a lot more research after yesterday's dealership visit and found out that the interior painted panels have problems with flaking/chipping. On top of that, I also read that I'm not the only one that felt that the clutch engagement was too high.
Other things I noticed:
1) key scratches by the driverside door handle (previous owner was a b-hole)
2) double din unit scratched
3) front bumper was chipped/scratched so badly from driving that only 50% of it still had some form of paint on it
4) driver side of front bumper had cracked orange reflector
5) front bumper had obvious sign of a minor fender bender with a stationary object. small, round impact point where object contacted the bumper and the bumper doesn't sit flush with passenger side headlight
Previously mentioned:
1) slipping aftermarket clutch (and it's a HD pressure plate with only 30k miles on it. how sad...)
2) no timing chain change recorded
3) car has 116k miles on it
Doing a kelley blue book on this car puts an excellent condition 2007 350z Touring model at about $14.5k and the dealership wants $13.4k before dealership fees are incurred. After looking at all the defects I had seen, should I even bother talking the dealership down to $12k so that I can use the difference to pay for repairs or should I just walk away?
Also, I was doing a lot more research after yesterday's dealership visit and found out that the interior painted panels have problems with flaking/chipping. On top of that, I also read that I'm not the only one that felt that the clutch engagement was too high.
Other things I noticed:
1) key scratches by the driverside door handle (previous owner was a b-hole)
2) double din unit scratched
3) front bumper was chipped/scratched so badly from driving that only 50% of it still had some form of paint on it
4) driver side of front bumper had cracked orange reflector
5) front bumper had obvious sign of a minor fender bender with a stationary object. small, round impact point where object contacted the bumper and the bumper doesn't sit flush with passenger side headlight
Previously mentioned:
1) slipping aftermarket clutch (and it's a HD pressure plate with only 30k miles on it. how sad...)
2) no timing chain change recorded
3) car has 116k miles on it
Doing a kelley blue book on this car puts an excellent condition 2007 350z Touring model at about $14.5k and the dealership wants $13.4k before dealership fees are incurred. After looking at all the defects I had seen, should I even bother talking the dealership down to $12k so that I can use the difference to pay for repairs or should I just walk away?
Last edited by Mr Wrex; Nov 18, 2013 at 11:43 AM.
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Thanks for the input Jenn. I couldn't find much info on servicing the timing chain, so I was just planning on replacing it as a preventative measure. But then I saw what was required to reach/replace it...
As far as the interior goes, I'm thinking about either repainting it or covering it with 3M ScotchPrint Black Carbon Fiber vinyl over the winter to keep myself amused. The front bumper, minor door scratches, and clutch are the only things I would have to fix at this point. I have until wednesday to committ my $12k offer to them, so we'll see how this pans out. I really appreciate the supplementary input so far guys!
As far as the interior goes, I'm thinking about either repainting it or covering it with 3M ScotchPrint Black Carbon Fiber vinyl over the winter to keep myself amused. The front bumper, minor door scratches, and clutch are the only things I would have to fix at this point. I have until wednesday to committ my $12k offer to them, so we'll see how this pans out. I really appreciate the supplementary input so far guys!
If you're set on buying this Z and fixing the clutch, purchase this package and have it installed (http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...ZSpHDCombo.htm)... You'll never have to worry about it again. Many 07-08 Z owners swear by this kit. Good luck
If you're set on buying this Z and fixing the clutch, purchase this package and have it installed (http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...ZSpHDCombo.htm)... You'll never have to worry about it again. Many 07-08 Z owners swear by this kit. Good luck
On a side note, I just talked the dealership into lowering the price to mitigate the price of replacing the clutch. You guys are looking at the proud new owner of a '07 SMBP 350z!!!
P.S. Pics to come this weekend once I pick the car up
I heard that the CSC had some issues on the 07-08 models, but I'm not too worried about it since the previous owner had replaced it. If I notice any symptoms of the CSC going out, I will definitely look into buying this kit. Thanks for the input!
On a side note, I just talked the dealership into lowering the price to mitigate the price of replacing the clutch. You guys are looking at the proud new owner of a '07 SMBP 350z!!!
P.S. Pics to come this weekend once I pick the car up
On a side note, I just talked the dealership into lowering the price to mitigate the price of replacing the clutch. You guys are looking at the proud new owner of a '07 SMBP 350z!!!
P.S. Pics to come this weekend once I pick the car up
I'll replace the CSC if/when it breaks, so I'm not going to get bent up over that. As for the pedal mod, will that adjust the clutch engagement point without stressing any of the clutch components? I read about adjusting the actual nuts on the pedal, but that seems like it would only hurt the lifespan of the clutch and bearings. During the first few seconds of my test drive, I noticed that I had to let the clutch out almost half way on the Z before it even started to grip to the flywheel. On my WRX, the engagement point is extremely close to the floor and I love it that way. I would love to have both cars with a low engagement point, but clutch lifespan is definitely a priority... so how can I go about adjusting it safely?
Yea the only thing I'm worried about is not having enough free-play in the clutch pedal; too little free-play will burn the throwout bearing and/or clutch. That's why I was thinking about possibly adjusting the pedal a little lower and adjust the master cylinder push rod to keep that free-play in check, but I haven't found any threads confirming this idea. It only annoys me in 1st gear and when trying to switch gears while cruising since I have to play around for awhile to find the right engagement point... when flooring it, I doubt I'd notice it. In fact, it'd probably make it easier to shift faster. Still annoying for daily driving though lol
Yeah I agree, it's annoying but thats from what I researched how nissan designed it.
I'm sure there is a method to their madness. And the clutch in the 350z is a dual mass flywheel which you might notice makes noise. That as well is normal (chatter).
How to adjust the clutch level
I'm sure there is a method to their madness. And the clutch in the 350z is a dual mass flywheel which you might notice makes noise. That as well is normal (chatter).
How to adjust the clutch level
I'll replace the CSC if/when it breaks, so I'm not going to get bent up over that. As for the pedal mod, will that adjust the clutch engagement point without stressing any of the clutch components? I read about adjusting the actual nuts on the pedal, but that seems like it would only hurt the lifespan of the clutch and bearings. During the first few seconds of my test drive, I noticed that I had to let the clutch out almost half way on the Z before it even started to grip to the flywheel. On my WRX, the engagement point is extremely close to the floor and I love it that way. I would love to have both cars with a low engagement point, but clutch lifespan is definitely a priority... so how can I go about adjusting it safely?
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5867...-shipping.html
Search for the original RJM thread, and you'll find it's filled with praise like you've never seen for any other Z mod. I've got a V2, but the newest V3 looks even easier to install, although the end result is the same. I wouldn't mess with adjusting the stock setup, as a misadjustment (easy to do) will cause more harm than good. The RJM kit fixes everything.
All I did was google "RJM clutch engagement" and found several threads stating that it can adjust the clutch engagement point. I'm sold. Looks like I have quite a few fun projects for my Z over the winter already!
2007 350z SMBP (115k mileage) - $11,600 (talked the dealership down almost $2k from their price! KBB excellent condition at this mileage is ~$15k)
RJM V3 clutch pedal mod - $225
3m vinyl wrap or paint for chipped interior - ~$100
JWT clutch and flywheel - $800 + $300 for install (if I don't feel like doing it myself)
Once again, I really appreciate everyone's input. You've made my intro into the nissan world quite an enjoyable one.
2007 350z SMBP (115k mileage) - $11,600 (talked the dealership down almost $2k from their price! KBB excellent condition at this mileage is ~$15k)
RJM V3 clutch pedal mod - $225
3m vinyl wrap or paint for chipped interior - ~$100
JWT clutch and flywheel - $800 + $300 for install (if I don't feel like doing it myself)
Once again, I really appreciate everyone's input. You've made my intro into the nissan world quite an enjoyable one.








