Can anyone help me out?

Car will crank but wont start and it throws the following codes at me

C1109 (Vehicle Battery Voltage Abnormal)

P1610 (Immobilizer Lock Mode)

P1614 (Communication between IMMU-Key Impossible, or Key Malfunction)

Anyone ever had these issues? Both keys wont start the car either.

It acts up here and there but this time the opening, closing door trick won’t work. Disconnected the battery and even changed the battery. Not sure what my next step is.

 

You may want to consider having the dealership take a look at this. Short of changing parts and praying for the best, the dealership is the only place that will have the equipment to deal with and correct issues with immobilization.

 

Do you have another key you can try?

 

I have two sets of keys both won’t work

 

Some kind of NATS malfunction. You can completely bypass NATS with an Uprev reflash, will probably be cheaper than the dealership

 

Brando,

The P1614 code means the Body Control Module (BCM) is not receiving the ID signal from your ignition key. The fault could be with the key, the antenna ring around the ignition key slot, the wiring, or the BCM itself (least likely). To clear this fault you first need to find the real culprit. This will usually require trip to your dealer (you will obviously need a tow). The P1610 fault, Lock Mode, means that you tried 5 consecutive start attempts with a faulty NATS. With this fault set the car will not start even if the other faults are cleared. Once the faults in the NATS are cleared, you can clear the Lock Mode with the following procedure:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.
The above procedure is from the bl.pdf section of the Service Manual. You can get copies of all the sections here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/ni...e-manuals.html

 

This is a very in-depth response thank you! I’m going to try and change out the immobilizer if that fails a trip to the dealership it is.

 

OR you can just bypass the immobilizer with an Uprev reflash.

 

There is no separate immobilizer unit in the car. The Body Control Module is essentially the control unit for the system, and it's not cheap.

 

I don't believe its that easy. If all you had to do was swap an immobilizer in a car with no assistance from an outside source (i.e. dealer unlock) anyone could steal a 350z and swap a replacement unit that they already had full access to into it.


Aside from an aftermarket alteration (i.e. Uprev flash) you'd have to have the dealer involved in this. Otherwise it makes no sense to place an immobilizer on the thing if it could be so easily bypassed.

 

I can help you with the Uprev option if you want to go that route, just shoot me a PM

 

had the same exact codes about 4 months ago and new exactly where to go. I think you almost had it chased down, while you went to replace your battery, the first thing you should have looked at was the cables connected to the battery, any corrosion could be indicated by green or white calcified build up. If the corrosion is light you can just brush it off with a wire brush, but if you can’t get to seeing the bare metal, or if the metal is rusted through, definitely change these cable ends, easy fix with a YouTube video and a 5 dollar pack of connections from autozone, hope this helps, good luck !

 

Changed my antenna amp as a last resort and it didn't work. So before towing and taking to the dealership I called a mobile locksmith and he was able to reprogram my keys in less than 5 minutes. $150 well spent hope this helps someone!! Thank you everyone for your responses.

 

Thank you for returning and posting your solution! Glad you were able to get it fixed.