Planning my G35C Nitrous Install?
Ok, I have been toying with the idea of installing nitrous on my 5AT G35 Coupe (my current mods include Z-tube, Popcharger, TopSpeed Headers, Crawford Cats, and Fujitsubo Y-pipe), and have arrived at the following as a possible setup...
- NX Import Custom EFI Wet Kit (with jets for 35/50/75)
- NX Maximizer Controller
- GenX Kit (bottle heater, blow down tube, fuel pressure safety switch, N2O pressure gauge)
Now, for aesthetic purposes (the way my trunk will be laid out with my custom stereo install) I would like to run dual bottles (haven't figured out if a pair of 10lb ones will fit or if i need 5lb ones).
In order to do this, I would need a second bottle and a second GenX kit. To hook up 2 bottles, do I just have to use a T-fitting combining the nitrous lines from the 2 bottles and then sending that single line up to the solenoids? And then i would splice together the wiring for the 2 bottle openers and the 2 bottle heaters?
Also, safety wise, for a 75 shot am I going to need to drop my plugs down one step colder?.
In the fuel department, my best bet for supplying the fuel solenoid would be thru the use of an SPX fuel damper adapter, correct?
And finally, as far as the Maximizer, i would like to tune it to ramp the shot from 0-100% over about 4 seconds in 1st gear to aid in getting traction "off the line", then run the full 75 shot thru the remaining gears... does this sound like a good approach?
- NX Import Custom EFI Wet Kit (with jets for 35/50/75)
- NX Maximizer Controller
- GenX Kit (bottle heater, blow down tube, fuel pressure safety switch, N2O pressure gauge)
Now, for aesthetic purposes (the way my trunk will be laid out with my custom stereo install) I would like to run dual bottles (haven't figured out if a pair of 10lb ones will fit or if i need 5lb ones).
In order to do this, I would need a second bottle and a second GenX kit. To hook up 2 bottles, do I just have to use a T-fitting combining the nitrous lines from the 2 bottles and then sending that single line up to the solenoids? And then i would splice together the wiring for the 2 bottle openers and the 2 bottle heaters?
Also, safety wise, for a 75 shot am I going to need to drop my plugs down one step colder?.
In the fuel department, my best bet for supplying the fuel solenoid would be thru the use of an SPX fuel damper adapter, correct?
And finally, as far as the Maximizer, i would like to tune it to ramp the shot from 0-100% over about 4 seconds in 1st gear to aid in getting traction "off the line", then run the full 75 shot thru the remaining gears... does this sound like a good approach?
yes you need to at least 1 step colder plugs that are either irridium or copper, no platinum (which is stock ) it would melt.
NX suggest 2 steps colder but most people here are doing just fine with 1 step colder.
In terms of t-ing for 2 bottles, I believe the NX dual stage kit has something like that, you might want to check their site for suggestions but of the top of my head I don't see why t-ng the bottles wouldn't work
NX suggest 2 steps colder but most people here are doing just fine with 1 step colder.
In terms of t-ing for 2 bottles, I believe the NX dual stage kit has something like that, you might want to check their site for suggestions but of the top of my head I don't see why t-ng the bottles wouldn't work
Originally posted by done12many2
I know that the gears are longer for the auto, but do you think you will actually be in 1st gear for 4 seconds while spaying nitrous?
I know that the gears are longer for the auto, but do you think you will actually be in 1st gear for 4 seconds while spaying nitrous?
First gear doesn't last 4 seconds without nitrous. ON the bottle you will have to shift almost IMMEDIATELY. A little over one second.
Time it so you get a 25 shot or so in first, then bump to 50-75 in second... second can easily take the 75. BUT do this only on dry roads with good traction.
-Eric
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What is even better than ramping based on time, is ramping based on RPM, which the lastest software for the Maximizer is capable of. This is how I do it and it is way more accurate than time. There are too many variables that can occur when you are driving and doing it by time does not account for these things.
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