Nitrous Wiring Black Box...first picture
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I'm almost done with my "black box" it's all working already but I still have to connect the weather terminals. This will power my nitrous and whatever other gadgets I want without a single splice into the electrical system (only the needed splices into the ecu.
and here's an updated image of the whole wiring diagram which explains on what's happening here...
Hope this is helpful for anyone else doing their setup
and here's an updated image of the whole wiring diagram which explains on what's happening here...
Hope this is helpful for anyone else doing their setup
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it's really straight forward once you spend some time looking at it.
Basically you have one power line coming from the battery going into a fuse box. The power on that is controlled via a switch that is hooked into an ignition controlled circiut via a "Add A Circuit" plug. Now you can hook up all your gadgets into the fuse box, have proper voltage and don't need any splicing into the car's electrical system.
I have a nitrous arm switch, purge, heater, remote bottle opener, power for the maximizer and my under dash neons...I'll put weather connectors on the wires so that I can remove the box anytime I want to. If a fuse blows it's easy to replace and won't take out any car fuses with it. And if I ever want to sell the car the car wiring will be still intact.
Now all that needs to happen is routing the wires to their corresponding locations ie. solenoids under the hood bootle heater in the back and such.
It'll also be much easier to catch and fix voltage problems and I have a master switch to shut it all off.
Basically you have one power line coming from the battery going into a fuse box. The power on that is controlled via a switch that is hooked into an ignition controlled circiut via a "Add A Circuit" plug. Now you can hook up all your gadgets into the fuse box, have proper voltage and don't need any splicing into the car's electrical system.
I have a nitrous arm switch, purge, heater, remote bottle opener, power for the maximizer and my under dash neons...I'll put weather connectors on the wires so that I can remove the box anytime I want to. If a fuse blows it's easy to replace and won't take out any car fuses with it. And if I ever want to sell the car the car wiring will be still intact.
Now all that needs to happen is routing the wires to their corresponding locations ie. solenoids under the hood bootle heater in the back and such.
It'll also be much easier to catch and fix voltage problems and I have a master switch to shut it all off.
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I'm putting the box on the passenger side floor, I was actually playing with putting in the glove box behind the passenger seat but the harness to the maximizer solenoid controller is a set lenght due to possible interference in front of the passenger seat must do.
The fuse box is a Universal Race Car Fuse box from Painless here's a link prod id 50101:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/harness9.htm
The fuse box is a Universal Race Car Fuse box from Painless here's a link prod id 50101:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/harness9.htm
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Originally posted by zownz
word...what you doin w the bottle? where you mounting it?
word...what you doin w the bottle? where you mounting it?
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correct, I sold the setup to someone on this board however I don't have his username handy right now.
I decided to go APS TT and haven't had a single day of regret, even though I miss the spray
I decided to go APS TT and haven't had a single day of regret, even though I miss the spray
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