spraying in a 5at?
done some searching and couldn't find all the answers to my questions so if these have been asked before... sorry I couldn't find them but i tired.
My questions are about how would you run Nitrous on a 5at Z.
Could you run down the track in Drive or do you have to shift with the +/-?
Do you have the same WOT problem other FI's have and does raising the rev limit solve this and allow you to spray while in drive?
When your driving an auto with Nitrous down the track would you just spray after 3000 rpm when your in 2nd or 3rd? How do you auto guys run it?
What kind of protection do you need to run? I have seen things that cut the spray at certain RPM's.
I was thinking if I went nitrous I would want to run a 50-75 shot, need two step colder plugs, some sort of timer that cuts it at high rpm's, ECU reflash to change rev limit and take timing back, etc.
Thanks.
My questions are about how would you run Nitrous on a 5at Z.
Could you run down the track in Drive or do you have to shift with the +/-?
Do you have the same WOT problem other FI's have and does raising the rev limit solve this and allow you to spray while in drive?
When your driving an auto with Nitrous down the track would you just spray after 3000 rpm when your in 2nd or 3rd? How do you auto guys run it?
What kind of protection do you need to run? I have seen things that cut the spray at certain RPM's.
I was thinking if I went nitrous I would want to run a 50-75 shot, need two step colder plugs, some sort of timer that cuts it at high rpm's, ECU reflash to change rev limit and take timing back, etc.
Thanks.
You can run a window switch that controls the rpms that the n20 comes on and goes off. This combined with a WOT or TPS switch should be pretty safe.
I have never sprayed in "D" mode.
You don't have to have a reflash and you only need 1 step colder plugs for a 50-75 shot. Your ecu in stock form can take up to 4 degrees of timing out on it's own which is enough for a 50-75 shot.
I have never sprayed in "D" mode.
You don't have to have a reflash and you only need 1 step colder plugs for a 50-75 shot. Your ecu in stock form can take up to 4 degrees of timing out on it's own which is enough for a 50-75 shot.
No problem....... If you get some mod.(converter + Valve Body) O.K + ECU cause REV.
Factory REV. is 6,500 rpm and 5AT shift on "D" mode is 6,400 rpm
Even now (Turbo + Nitrous) I'm using only " D " mode
Look at this ... what I did on my 5AT
80kpa Boost + 85 Nitrous shot
Factory REV. is 6,500 rpm and 5AT shift on "D" mode is 6,400 rpm
Even now (Turbo + Nitrous) I'm using only " D " mode
Look at this ... what I did on my 5AT
80kpa Boost + 85 Nitrous shot
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From: so cali 909-951-626
The only reason you need to cut nitrous flow, is when the throttle plate closes, and the fuel flow drops. However on an AT, you really don't need to worry about this too much, even during the shifting. you can drive it normally, just punch it and go, or shift up in the manu-matic mode. However, due to the way an auto tranny is designed, you will be putting more stress on the internals of the trans. such as the valve body, etc... In the long run, an auto trans will take quite a bit of abuse from runnig nos, no matte how you have it set up, and will start to wear and tear quicker than without running that type of mod.
Building up the trans is a good thing to do with higher hp notrous setups, since you will also be able to put the power to the ground better and quicker. the auto trans absorbs quite a bit of the extra power a kit creates, and thus putting stress on the valve bodies etc... more so.
you'll be fine basically untill you start getting more nitrous happy
Building up the trans is a good thing to do with higher hp notrous setups, since you will also be able to put the power to the ground better and quicker. the auto trans absorbs quite a bit of the extra power a kit creates, and thus putting stress on the valve bodies etc... more so.
you'll be fine basically untill you start getting more nitrous happy
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
The only reason you need to cut nitrous flow, is when the throttle plate closes, and the fuel flow drops. However on an AT, you really don't need to worry about this too much, even during the shifting. you can drive it normally, just punch it and go, or shift up in the manu-matic mode. However, due to the way an auto tranny is designed, you will be putting more stress on the internals of the trans. such as the valve body, etc... In the long run, an auto trans will take quite a bit of abuse from runnig nos, no matte how you have it set up, and will start to wear and tear quicker than without running that type of mod.
Building up the trans is a good thing to do with higher hp notrous setups, since you will also be able to put the power to the ground better and quicker. the auto trans absorbs quite a bit of the extra power a kit creates, and thus putting stress on the valve bodies etc... more so.
you'll be fine basically untill you start getting more nitrous happy
Building up the trans is a good thing to do with higher hp notrous setups, since you will also be able to put the power to the ground better and quicker. the auto trans absorbs quite a bit of the extra power a kit creates, and thus putting stress on the valve bodies etc... more so.
you'll be fine basically untill you start getting more nitrous happy
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This forum (NO2) sucks, noone ever posts in here. Can I spray off the line in a 5AT? My TC gives way at 2500; I want a window switch that sprays between 3000 and 6600, I'll manually shift it as soon as the spray lets off, which will take a lot of stress off the tranny.
yes, you can spray out of the hole. You'll light up the tires like mad though.
There isn't much load on the engien in 1st gear. the problem of sprating at low rpm only happens in the high gears, where the engine can't rev up as fast.
There isn't much load on the engien in 1st gear. the problem of sprating at low rpm only happens in the high gears, where the engine can't rev up as fast.
Originally Posted by DomZ
I kinda wish there was more conclusive evidence on this...I would definately do a 75hp dry shot if I could hide it well and yank it when I blew my engine up....
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