stock z with zex kit
stock z with zex kit
i just bought a zex wet kit and was wondering would it be fine to run a 65 shot, the car is stock accept for the evo 2 exhaust. i would be screwed if i blew my motor, oh just say i missed a gear while spraying what can it do? thanks guys
Pooling... IMPROPER Install the biggest culprit. There was a Honda guy on one of the nitrous forums about a month ago that installed a kit and he said he blew his while testing it. There has been a couple of threads here about ppl blowing there engines the shot size was all over the place. 65 is no safe then 75, nor is 50. If you believe otherwise thats good for you, but dont give others the false sense of security you have. Im running the maximizer w/ the O2 sensor and all the other safety features money can buy. I dont feel any safer w/ my 75 shot program then my 150+ ones, BUT I still run them. I understand the consequences and enjoy the power wisely.
Show you? Are you the FACT police???
Call any of the Nitrous companies; none of them will garantee you are safe at any shot. If they did that will make them liable.
When I first started using thats all I wanted to not be in the range of POSSIBLE explosion. This Guy needs to understand that there is no SAFE zone w/ nitrous. (or any non-NISSAN part in the dealers eye)
There are only precautions to help avoid detonation by only allowing the injection of nitrous happen at the most optimal time.
Show you? Are you the FACT police???
Call any of the Nitrous companies; none of them will garantee you are safe at any shot. If they did that will make them liable.
When I first started using thats all I wanted to not be in the range of POSSIBLE explosion. This Guy needs to understand that there is no SAFE zone w/ nitrous. (or any non-NISSAN part in the dealers eye)
There are only precautions to help avoid detonation by only allowing the injection of nitrous happen at the most optimal time.
First, I didnt mean to offend, if I came off that way I apoligize...
Ok, not trying to give anyone a false sense of security or scare them away from nitrous either. I assume anyone who is seriously considering nos would do his homework and find out about the risks and rewards.
My 2 cents:
The main thing that can go wrong is adding nitrous into your engine without compensating fuel. This extreme lean condition is disaster for the engine, and you're not likely to get a second chance - at least with the same engine.
Why you should use a window switch?
At low RPM, think about what's going on: you're spraying nitrous into the intake at a constant flow. That is, the nitrous bottle and solenoids have no idea what RPM you're at, and they're just pushing it into the intake at a constant volume. Inside the engine, though, the nitrous and fuel combination is being sucked into the cylinders during every stroke. The net result is that at low RPM, you're getting far more of the mixture into the cylinders. At 3000 RPM, for example, you're getting twice the amount as at 6000 RPM. So, you can imagine that running nitrous at, say 1000 RPM, is far more stressful on the motor as at 3000 RPM, and typically causes a "nitrous backfire" - meaning that the nitrous/fuel combination can explode in the intake manifold (rather than the cylinders) - a bad thing.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch is also a good idea
This is a device that's plumbed into the fuel system, and provides an open or closed circuit based on availability of fuel pressure. It can be used in the triggering circuit to make sure the system isn't on when you've got a fuel problem. There is a very slight chance you will ever need it, but why not?
High Octane Gas
High octane gas (100 or more, unleaded) will slow the burn rate in the cylinder. This will provide a way, similar to retarding timing, to avoid knock. I only recommend using nitrous on a 50/50 mix of 91 octane pump gas and 100 octane racing gas. Make sure it's unleaded, of course, or you'll destroy your O2 sensors.
Nitrous Filter
A simple part, but should be in any nitrous system. This filter is added in-line to your nitrous line, between the tank and the solenoid. Install it as close to the solenoid end as is convenient. It will trap any small particles that may come through the line, much like a fuel filter. A common solenoid failure is due to some particle jamming it open.
Obviously, you run the risk of damaging you engine and of course you will increase wear on your clutch and drivetrain using nitrous or any other power adders.
It is my opinion that a 75-100 shot, with all the safety features is safer for your stock internals than any turbo on the market, for 1/4 the price. There are plenty of threads on this and other forums to read, just do your own due diligence.
Ok, not trying to give anyone a false sense of security or scare them away from nitrous either. I assume anyone who is seriously considering nos would do his homework and find out about the risks and rewards.
My 2 cents:
The main thing that can go wrong is adding nitrous into your engine without compensating fuel. This extreme lean condition is disaster for the engine, and you're not likely to get a second chance - at least with the same engine.
Why you should use a window switch?
At low RPM, think about what's going on: you're spraying nitrous into the intake at a constant flow. That is, the nitrous bottle and solenoids have no idea what RPM you're at, and they're just pushing it into the intake at a constant volume. Inside the engine, though, the nitrous and fuel combination is being sucked into the cylinders during every stroke. The net result is that at low RPM, you're getting far more of the mixture into the cylinders. At 3000 RPM, for example, you're getting twice the amount as at 6000 RPM. So, you can imagine that running nitrous at, say 1000 RPM, is far more stressful on the motor as at 3000 RPM, and typically causes a "nitrous backfire" - meaning that the nitrous/fuel combination can explode in the intake manifold (rather than the cylinders) - a bad thing.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch is also a good idea
This is a device that's plumbed into the fuel system, and provides an open or closed circuit based on availability of fuel pressure. It can be used in the triggering circuit to make sure the system isn't on when you've got a fuel problem. There is a very slight chance you will ever need it, but why not?
High Octane Gas
High octane gas (100 or more, unleaded) will slow the burn rate in the cylinder. This will provide a way, similar to retarding timing, to avoid knock. I only recommend using nitrous on a 50/50 mix of 91 octane pump gas and 100 octane racing gas. Make sure it's unleaded, of course, or you'll destroy your O2 sensors.
Nitrous Filter
A simple part, but should be in any nitrous system. This filter is added in-line to your nitrous line, between the tank and the solenoid. Install it as close to the solenoid end as is convenient. It will trap any small particles that may come through the line, much like a fuel filter. A common solenoid failure is due to some particle jamming it open.
Obviously, you run the risk of damaging you engine and of course you will increase wear on your clutch and drivetrain using nitrous or any other power adders.
It is my opinion that a 75-100 shot, with all the safety features is safer for your stock internals than any turbo on the market, for 1/4 the price. There are plenty of threads on this and other forums to read, just do your own due diligence.
Those are good items to get, but you forgot a couple. This is What i have in my set-up...
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
Originally Posted by TIGHT-Z
Those are good items to get, but you forgot a couple. This is What i have in my set-up...
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
Well said...
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Originally Posted by TIGHT-Z
Those are good items to get, but you forgot a couple. This is What i have in my set-up...
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
1: A TPS switch (Throttle Position Sensor). This is so the nitrous will only spray when you are flooring the gas pedal and as soon as you release, it stops.
2: MSD window switch which controls what RPMS im spraying at. I have mine set right now at a 75 shot for 3500-6300 rpms
3: I have bottle pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge along with an upgraded fuel pump.
4: A purge kit to clean out the lines before and after use.
It is true that nitrous is can detonate ur engine at anytime. But the more safety precautions you install decreases the chances of that.
I have not heard of many blown engines on the 350Z using nitrous, but just in my area, i have already seen 3 engines blow that had turbos on them
Tell me about the fuel pump please, I hadnt heard of anyone doing that...
I believe the upgraded fuel pump was said to be a good idea at a 150 or higher shot.
As far as VQ's blowing there are 3 ppl in the S. Florida area alone that I know of. 2 of them are forum members that probably never entered the nitrous section since then. The other works at a local shop, he was running a 75 shot on the highway when his detonated. And there are those that say the highway is the safest place to squeeze the juice.
As far as VQ's blowing there are 3 ppl in the S. Florida area alone that I know of. 2 of them are forum members that probably never entered the nitrous section since then. The other works at a local shop, he was running a 75 shot on the highway when his detonated. And there are those that say the highway is the safest place to squeeze the juice.
Most detentation can be heard... most guys are dumb and dont pay attention.. also there is silent detenation that is very unoticeable but this is small amount... throw a wideband and your set. People are dumb when they dont even know what the sound of detenation is they just keep their foot to the wood and pop their motors
Originally Posted by nissansource
Most detentation can be heard... most guys are dumb and dont pay attention.. also there is silent detenation that is very unoticeable but this is small amount... throw a wideband and your set. People are dumb when they dont even know what the sound of detenation is they just keep their foot to the wood and pop their motors
Depending on the severity, once you hear it, it can be too late. Extemely mild detonation occurs quite a bit in both modded and unmodded motors. It's the big time detonation or pre-ignition that will get you.
I can tell you that from my experience with the VQ35 on 100 shots and greater, without pulling timing or similar things such as racing fuel or colder plugs, you will detonate. Not necessarily enough to cause instant failure of components, but enough to cause damage over time.
One of the biggest offenders here in Texas is the extreme heat. On a nice hot sunny day here, I can go out to my car and open the bottle to find 2000+ lbs of pressure. Needless to say, that can be a big probem if not allowed to cool down so that pressure drops. I plan on installing a fire and ice heater/cooler in order to help control this.
yes alot of factors can play. but you can detontate a car and still be ok its just idiots out there that continue to run the car hard while under the detonation load
Originally Posted by done12many2
Depending on the severity, once you hear it, it can be too late. Extemely mild detonation occurs quite a bit in both modded and unmodded motors. It's the big time detonation or pre-ignition that will get you.
I can tell you that from my experience with the VQ35 on 100 shots and greater, without pulling timing or similar things such as racing fuel or colder plugs, you will detonate. Not necessarily enough to cause instant failure of components, but enough to cause damage over time.
One of the biggest offenders here in Texas is the extreme heat. On a nice hot sunny day here, I can go out to my car and open the bottle to find 2000+ lbs of pressure. Needless to say, that can be a big probem if not allowed to cool down so that pressure drops. I plan on installing a fire and ice heater/cooler in order to help control this.
I can tell you that from my experience with the VQ35 on 100 shots and greater, without pulling timing or similar things such as racing fuel or colder plugs, you will detonate. Not necessarily enough to cause instant failure of components, but enough to cause damage over time.
One of the biggest offenders here in Texas is the extreme heat. On a nice hot sunny day here, I can go out to my car and open the bottle to find 2000+ lbs of pressure. Needless to say, that can be a big probem if not allowed to cool down so that pressure drops. I plan on installing a fire and ice heater/cooler in order to help control this.
i should probably get the fuel pump, i got my timing retarded with an ecu relfash, it runs kind of weird now but it still seems normal under WOT. WIth these high gas prices race fuel is only 1 dollar more than premium, so i say why not just upgrade to race fuel if you think your gonna use a high shot on your car. I also have the NGK colder plugs. One thing i do need is the fire and ice bottle covers and bottle pressure gauges.
Also anyone know how to disconnect a zex bottle with a remote bottle opener on it?
Also anyone know how to disconnect a zex bottle with a remote bottle opener on it?
