12SecZ

And complete!

N74DV

NO NO NO..... everyone on this list uses the word "powdercoat" too loosely.... sometimes I wonder if anyone knows what powdercoating is.....

if you want your rims black.... ANODIZE, not powdercoat.

Anodizing does not add thickness to the wheel and essentailly "stains" the aluminum.

While powdercoating will work, it adds about 20 thousands to the wheel and the finish is not as smooth as anodizing.... it looks like a thick coat of glossy paint.... anodizing looks like natural aluminum stained black... like the bluing of a gun.

D'oh

Just in case anyone cares:

Powerder coat is basically a baked-on paint. Instead of a liquid that is applied and then cured, it is a dry powder that is statically attached to the metal wheel and then baked to cure. Because the poweder is statically applied, the base material must be electrically conductive. The final coating can be made to be relatively smooth or textured depending on the specifics of the process. Because of the thickness of the coating, it will hide most imperfections in the base material.

Anodizing does not apply a coating to a part, but actually changes the chemical composition of the outermost layer of the base metal. Anodizing only works on aluminum, so if you have any other material, you will need a different coloring process. The anodizing process consists of dipping a part in an acid solution, which over time changes the Aluminum to Aluminum Oxide - a ceramic. Depending on the process, the anodized coating can be anywhere from .0002" think to .005" thick, and will impregnate the material to 1/2 that thickness and build up 1/2 that thickness. Because the anodize is so thin, it will show any imperfection in the base material, and can also be chipped or scratched fairly easily - remember, it is a ceramic material - very hard, but also very brittle. The anodize can be made many different colors, like green, blue, red, purple, and black. Take a look at aftermarket moutain bike parts and you'll get the idea. Pretty much all of those are anodized. Anodize can also have other material, such as teflon, impregnated into the finish (like most aluminum cookware). This can make the surface slippery and easy to clean (maybe a good reason to get the wheels anodized with a Teflon impregnate - makes it easier to get rid of that brake dust... ).

In both processes you can mask any surface you would like to stay the original color or material, so really you should make your process choice depending on the look you are going for. I think one good reason to powder coat the wheels is because it is tougher than anodize, and may be less likely to chip or scratch. Not sure on that one, though.

-D'oh!

alex30327

How much does NOS damamge your engine each time you use it? I have heard of people blowing up theri engines with this stuff.

2003z33

Can you hook me up wth the part number and brand for the cooler plugs you would recommend?

12SecZ

Personally I am using these,

link

But they also make the kit I have bought so it was easier for ordering purposes.

I am also looking into one of these now

"SAFC-II"

Eric1h

Alex, N02 doesnt hurt your engine, its the improper tuning that can damage your engine. Nitrous basically adds for O2 to the combustion chamber whinc allows for more fuel, more fuel and 02 = morepower, if you dont have enough Fuel your combustion chambers get VERY HOT, which can melt pistons, rings, valves, etc.

Nitrous is like a turbo,if not properly tuned it can easily blow an engine. the downsid to Nitrous is its cheap, so every 16 year old kid can pay 500 bucks and get a 100hp without any kind knowledge and install it in a weekend, where as a turbo at least takes more money and knowledge to get installed and if you go through that much efffort you will most likely have it tuned properly.

Nitrous can actually be GOOD for your engine, the higher engine internals temps help clean deposits from your enigine and valves, much like the the "clean cycle" on your oven.

Zaphod 350z

Eric1h is dead on. A properly set up and tuned nitrous system can be run forever without damaging the engine. Extra wear and tear, yes but that's to be expecting with any power increasing modification. They key is to run a wet shot (that is supply intake with nitrous and fuel) and to not run a ridiculous shot. If you try to run a 200hp shot on a regular basis then yes, chances are you will damage something. but 100 and under, installed properly, should be fine.

Anyone in the NY / NJ area who would like to check out my install and go for a ride, let me know. Someone should put together a NJ or LI meet.

brad1972

Another thing about nitrous, in many situations it's actually BETTER than a turbo or supercharger. Turbo's and superchargers compress outside air and stuff it into the cylinders - this compression causes the air to heat up quite a bit. Intercoolers were developed to negate this, but most setups still produce air temperatures noticably above ambient air temps (especially if it is a hot day outside). Nitrous on the other hand uses compressed n2o as the oxidant - when released from the bottle, the expansion of the n20 actually *cools* the cylinders a bit, which reduces the chance of detonation and lets you produce more power. That being said, the two main problems with n20:

1) flow control and reliability of both n20 and fuel, if your mixture is short on n20, not a big deal, you'll just run rich. if you're short on fuel, you'll have lean mixture detonation which melts pistons, breaks rings, damages valves, etc etc.

2) another big problem is that n2o is instant on and is capable of producing tremendous amounts of torque. If you have a big n20 system (say...200hp shot) and swtich it on at a lower rpm, clutches tend to slip (best case) and drivetrain components tend to snap (worst case).

Brad

Apexi350z

iTrader: (3)

very well explained. thanks!

If I go with Nitrous, I would probably use the ZEX system. It is suppose to be computer controll and always maintain constant fuel and nitrous ratio.

2003z33

Ive got the same setup w/ heater, Purge and Gauge. We are selling the NOS system so if anyone is interested give us a ring. We have planned for turbo install starting in Mid April. Looking at twin T3's. More info soon to come.

Eric1h

I think one of the best kits around is the Venom kits, they add fuel at the injector and they will disarm if you get a lean condition, but zex is a good kit too

was wesman

iTrader: (7)

Agreed...that would look pretty sweet

--wes

2003z33

In ref. to plugs.Were you guys able to get the zex plugs for our cars. I actually have the NGK Numbers for our cars from the stealership:

plfr4a-11 Cold
plfr5a-11 Normal
plfr6a-11 Hot

Zaphod 350z

The place that installed my kit, Turbo People, highly recommend irridium plugs. I will be doing that very very soon. If anyone thinks my guy doesn't know what he's talking about, do a web search for the name Job Spetter. These guys build race cars.

2003z33

got the part #? Someone told me not to use Platniums..

Thanks
Mike

vova151

Are there any issues using NOS on an Automatic?

2003z33

Heres some pics in my car. I still havent recved the Purge, Bottle Jacket or Gauge. Hope to see that Saturday. We put the bottle to the far left becuase we wanted to keep it out of site and I needed room for junk..We were gonna put it where zaphod put his but I had plans for that area in the future.. Intake will go in when the turbos go in, but for now a K&N will do. THe solenoids were mounted in the brake compartment, the switches are in the ashtray. We used different switches then the one that came with the kit. Oh by the way, this car and all of our other cars will be in a import car show sometime in June. We will start the turbo install and fabrication in April..:-)

was wesman

iTrader: (7)

Hmmmm...most people think that the Venom products are crap. Everything from their NOS kits to their fuel products....quite a few 300 guys had problems with their fuel injectors craping out and toasting engines.

--wes

Zaphod 350z

2003z33, great looking install. I put the bottle in my car where it is because I plan on adding a second bottle right next to it and building a nice enclosure for it. I turned the NAV console into the MOD console. I'll post some pics of that this weekend. I'm sucker for asthetics so I did some lighting in there as well.

No part numbers for the plugs, but I'm making phone calls this weekend, I'll definitely keep you posted.

VOVA151 - The only issue I can foresee with doing NOS on an auto is at the high rpm when the car is shifting. The typical method of nitrous delivery in these kinds of kits is a WOT switch. You want the nitrous to only be delivered when running wide open throttle because that's when the fuel delivery is at it most abundant. You don't want to run lean, that's when things detonate. With a manual transmission, you are (in theory) coming off the gas, at least coming off WOT when shifting. With an auto you can leave your foot firmly planted. During the shift is when the auto tranny is most suseptable to damage. High hp output during the shift puts an incredible strain on the clutch bands. I don't know how much power the auto tranny can hold. This is why the bottom of the gear has less power and it increases as the rpm's increase. but with the NOS shot you are delivering that extra power immediately. The options are, be aware of your driving and lift off when it shifts, or run a push button system and only use it when running WOT.

WAS WESMAN - people in the tuning world do not like the Venom kits because as they all say... NO2 is designed for bursts, not constant delivery. NOS is safe and can actually be beneficial to your motor so long as it is run with good gas and used smartly. A system like venom's computer controlled, linear delivery system while being a great idea means that nitrous is constantly being introduce to the motor greatly increasing your chances of damage due to excessive wear and tear. Nitrous was never intended to replace the turbo or the super charger for constant power creation and no one here should install an NOS kit in their car with that philosophy.