NOS Installed. Amazing.
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Hmmmm, I don't know what the deal is w/power reduction when on the brake in the auto. I get NO POWER REDUCTION when preloading all the way up to 5-6k. I have the 5AT and I can run up to 3k easily and way beyond to clean the tires while still on the brake before staging. Others have posted that they cannot do that at all unless disconnecting the brake actuation wire(s). I have been to the 1/4 twice in the last few weeks and I avoid the water box and power brake to simply clean the tires prior to launch and can drive them to 5-6k easily if I wanted to do so. I did it the first time and it revved so freely that it took me by surprise! Don't worry about trying to heat up the tires when on stock compound tires, it is a practice that accomplishes nothing. OTOH, clean em' off, impress the friends in the stands, but the pro's just shake their heads when you try to heat up oem tires.
Hurry up and get us some times as I am contemplating the Zex as well. Regards, Jim
Hurry up and get us some times as I am contemplating the Zex as well. Regards, Jim
Originally posted by MaxHax
My system is complete and it runs very well, no detonation or KR that I can sense. I have a date with the track set. I will post slips.
I have ran one bottle with 65 jets (wet) and really tempted to go 75 but it feels so solid and the jets are hard to get to (fuel and N20 dual.) Decisions... Zex says it may cause retard, so I may stay at 65 and get gains elsewhere, I'm leaning that way anyways.
What I need help with is some detailed instructions on how to disable the power reduction when brake is applied (the brake light wire mod?) So I can heat my tires a little before launching. I have an Auto at that.
Level of difficulty for this trick mod and any negatives to doing it?
TIA.
My system is complete and it runs very well, no detonation or KR that I can sense. I have a date with the track set. I will post slips.
I have ran one bottle with 65 jets (wet) and really tempted to go 75 but it feels so solid and the jets are hard to get to (fuel and N20 dual.) Decisions... Zex says it may cause retard, so I may stay at 65 and get gains elsewhere, I'm leaning that way anyways.
What I need help with is some detailed instructions on how to disable the power reduction when brake is applied (the brake light wire mod?) So I can heat my tires a little before launching. I have an Auto at that.
Level of difficulty for this trick mod and any negatives to doing it?
TIA.
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So you ZEX guys are getting CEL's huh? Did you scan the car to see what the DTC is? I would suspect it's a short to ground or voltage deviation in the TPS circuit. That's why I opted for a mechanically controlled system. I'm spraying 80, and no CEL's.
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voltage deviation in the TPS circuit
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That question is beyond my expertise. In laymens terms our beloved Z's have a total of eleven computers on board.
One of them deals with CES lights etc, and when you activate the N20 (or more specificly the ZEX Computer Controller) one of these computers notices the voltage change and sends a CES light to the dash.
My tech said if the light persisted you could rig a butt connector on the white (ZEX's) wire (the thicker one, not the Z's wire) and simply disconnect the white wire at the connector when not in use and the light would immediately go out. This was not an option for me because why pay all that money for a remote bottle opener to have to get out and fiddle with wires?
The white wire is what causes the CES light though if that helps.
Maybe I got lucky, I don't get the light anymore and spray on and off maybe twice a week and have remote opener and purge too. You can view the white wire I am talking about at my website where the ZEX Module (purple ) is.
For the record, I like this kit better than the Summit dry kit I had (5177 kit) with it's very thin fragile wires and exposed selenoids.
One of them deals with CES lights etc, and when you activate the N20 (or more specificly the ZEX Computer Controller) one of these computers notices the voltage change and sends a CES light to the dash.
My tech said if the light persisted you could rig a butt connector on the white (ZEX's) wire (the thicker one, not the Z's wire) and simply disconnect the white wire at the connector when not in use and the light would immediately go out. This was not an option for me because why pay all that money for a remote bottle opener to have to get out and fiddle with wires?
The white wire is what causes the CES light though if that helps.
Maybe I got lucky, I don't get the light anymore and spray on and off maybe twice a week and have remote opener and purge too. You can view the white wire I am talking about at my website where the ZEX Module (purple ) is.
For the record, I like this kit better than the Summit dry kit I had (5177 kit) with it's very thin fragile wires and exposed selenoids.
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