Hey everyone, I did a dyno this past weds. on before and after with a 125 shot of nitrous and to make sure a/f readings were ok.

Base pull was 250 hp 225 tq
Mods;
headers, test pipes, y-pipe, spacer, UD pullies.

125 shot of zex, bottle only at 870 psi... ( couldn't warm it up more in time)
370 TQ and 350 hp A/f 12.1 - 12.3

Graph was smooth all the way through. What you guys think? I'll show some pics later dyno of the install and setup looks great!

Oh BTW this was done on a MUSTANG Dyno. Numbers are typically lower and also are SAE corrected. So for the numbers I got I think thats pretty impressive no? on a dyno jet they said I'd probally see 260-265 STD. Now I cant wait to go to the track!

 

I think your way to lean there buddy, surprised you didnt make more torque with the 125shot

 

I'm actually on the rich side. Still alot of room for play. Safe too. bottle was only at 870 my bottle warmer was acting up. I'm sure I couldve pushed another 50 on both sides if psi was at 950-1000, what part of chicago u in? what shot u pushing?

 

You are lean. You should be around very high 10's to mid 11's to be safe. 12's is alittle lean the higher the number the leaner you are. I am running a 100 shot now but with a 75 shot I dyno'd at 341rwhp and just over 400Rwtq.

 

what where ur mods with 75 shot dyno? also how far is ur jet from the throttle body? (inches) what kit are you using and what jets? I'd like a comparison. Thanks

 

i made 340 hp and 410 tq on a 100 shot, that was with high 11 AFRs

 

Hey audible could you take pics of your front bumper/intake duct? Also did you notice any significant difference in temp when you did the mod? Also i'm looking to piece together my own n20 setup and you seem to be one of the foremost expert in nitrous for z's. So if you could PM what parts you used for your setup, that would help me greatly.

 

I wouldnt want to run anything leaner than 11.5:1. Numbers arent bad though.

 

12ish is fine run race gas. when your going high 13s worry...

 

everyone has this mantality to run rich now for being safe yes its safe but you can get away with those AF numbers just run some fuel first

 

Yeah but he likely isnt running race gas so I dont think its smart to tell him hes fine...just yet. Race gas isnt practical Id just make it a tad richer and not worry.

 

I'm gonna get dynoed again on a different dyno, like i said it was a mustang dyno so #'s were lower then most dynos. and bottle was at 860-870 psi ;( didnt have the time to wait for it to heat, the shop did though, shouldve waited. I'm on 93 octane. daily driver, nitrous about 1 or twice a week. gonna bump it to a 150 shot sometime this week though.

 

Perhaps you should make it a bit richer first to prevent detonation..

 

I would richen it up a bit also, but if he's comfortable with it, and its not blowing up, then so be it. Honestly, the ecu may just pull more timing before anything bad were to happen anyway.

 

i dont have a lot of time to work on my car, so when i get a day off i usually do about 50 things to it. as far as the air duct goes, theoretically it had to bring the temps down, it is a straight shot right into the air duct to the intake. i think i might try to mount and air intake sensor in the lower runners right next to the head so when i do things i can tell if something is actually working or helping. as far as my setup, nothing special , just a utec, a NX kit, pulled some timing, slicks and big *****!!!

 

thats the thing his ecu is never the same with this setup. It will switch between its 3 maps and constently change. he needs it a bit richer or run on some good fuel along with some NGKs, and a 150shot shocker is pretty much a high boarder line b4 scraping the motor. be carefull that much of a shock on the engine is kinda hard use a progressive controler

 

i think ur right about the 3 map thing. on my first pull on the dyno it was just a base run, (heres where it comes in i think the 2nd run was the 125 shot spray. i made 370 tq and only 300 hp... 3rd run was the 370 tq and 350 hp. so something mustve happened in the 2nd run for it to show 50 hp less. i do think a piggymap is needed now after u saying that lol.. any opiniions now?

 

get tadashi at Techosquare to take care of the flash so the ecu doesnt keep changing and or get a utec or unichip q

 

FYI:As your N2O temps increase you'll become more lean (higher bottle temp = higher bottle pressure = more N2O flow)