Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

i searched..................................nuttin

So, i have the zex setup. I have the zex window switch. It has a power, ground, tach signal and two white wires. No where can i find in the directions does it say how to connect it to the zex control unit. The white wires are only good for .5 amps or so, not enough to run the zex units. So how do i hook it up? Is a relay required (thatd suck, seems like it should work with no extra parts.

I want the safety of a window switch and tps, but it doesnt seem easy.

So, anybody know?

man this install is tough!!

thanks

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

im sure it goes to the relay that controls the solenoids (fuel and nitrous)


that didnt come with the kit??

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

nope, just a module with output wires.

how does the msd digital window switch do it?

I figured if i bought zex itd work 100% out of the box with my setup

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

window switch picks up an rpm signal then feeds the relay power to turn on the solenoids

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

ok, well here is one way it will work, you can put it before the zex box, then when it is in the correct rpm range it will feed the zex box power



let me go do some searches online and see if i can find a picture

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

hmm, the zex has the two white wires that can control a circuit but are only rated for .5 amps (not enough to run a solenoid). the wires activate when the window switch is active. Im guessing thats how its supposed to active the solenoids but thats not how the zex unit works. It has a tps wire, power and ground.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

audbile, while i have your attention, let me ask ya where i should tap the tps and tach wires. Ive heard that the tps should be done from the TB with a white wire with possible green stripe. I hear the tach signal is either pin 52/60, should i just tap it from the ecu?

got any pics?

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions...nstructions%22


it says that those wires are rated for 10 amps each on here... might be talking about different wires

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

yeah, i am thinking that you will need a relay. this relay will need to feed power to the zex box, i would put the zex window switch before it, when its in that window, it would feed the relay power, then the relay will feed the zex box power....


does sound like a lot of work... but all worth it soon!!!

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

wrong swicth, see

http://www.zex.com/Products/NitrousA...rolSwitch.asp?

part number 82805

can you find the instructions for them online?

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

the wiring is enough as is!!! a nitrous install aint cake if you do it right and clean. Im using crimp connecters for simplicity. Im going to feed one 12v source to the rear area and then split into 3 fused lines for the system, bottle heater and purge. I then have to run a line back for ground, purge, tp line, tach line, activate line and so on................its crazy. Now to throw a relay in is just one more thing. i really would have thought zex would make it work without a relay........

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

the more i think about it the less easy this thing is to use.

SO, i bought a realy thatll be my cotrol for turning my zex unit on. the only problem is the window switch will are the control unit btween the intervals, and i guess the arm switch can detect wot immediatley and send the nitrous?

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

bump...anybody got another way?

first350

iTrader: (24)

That's what you got?? It's exactly the same as Dynotune's TPS/Window switch...wonder who actually developed it?

I just installed this, here's the wires that come with the dynotune unit:
-power (+12V)
-ground
-TPS sensor (I tapped into the solid green wire @ the TB)
-RPM/tach signal (I tapped into pin 50 or 62...see my install post for which one...I forget)
-Ch1 (less than 1A)
-Ch2 (less than 1A)

**Ch1&2 should be connected in series with the signal line to your relay...when all of the conditions are met (correct RPM, WOT), the unit closes CH1/2 to ground.

The reason they have 2 channels is that you can control 2 stages of nitrous...I just connected both channels to the same wire.


Here's one of the diagrams I made regarding this unit.....the wire colors are probably different, but it's the same idea:


I have a 'main power switch that supplies power to all of my N2O stuff, then I have a 2nd 'solenoid switch' that's bascially the ARM switch...hope this helps.

first350

iTrader: (24)

this file should be bigger...


BTW: I'm heading out right now and won't be back until evening...

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

thanks for the help........i was hoping to do it without a relay (shouldnt need the extra parts anyway!!!!!!)

first350

iTrader: (24)

I thought most Zex kits come with a TPS sensor within their solenoid box...

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

they do, this is a window switch so it only sprays between preset rpms. It one more safety feature.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

bump............I cant seem to get the relay to trip! The window switch is setup right and even show that its armed. I hooked the two white wires up to the relay switch terminal but it doesnt power out. I checked pwr and gnd on the relay and they worked fine, i couldnt get anything from the white wires.

anybody ever done that setup? window switch->relay-> zex nmu

first350

iTrader: (24)

I used a small 12 Vdc light bulb to check that each component within my system was working properly...I would bypass the other components until I new they were working. (I did all of this with the soleoids bypassed...if the light came on at the right times, then I new whatever components were hooked up were working)

things to check:
-does the relay work and is it hooked up properly (I have a 12 V camping battery that I used to check all my stuff with prior to installing them...it'll make sure that you're conecting the correct wires to each portion of the relay and that the relay actually works.)
-window/TPS switch (Connect the light between power and Ch1/2 and go for a drive to make sure it's working...while the 'X.X.X' display might show it's working properly, the switch inside might be broken)
-check the Zex unit's operation.
-lastly, after you've verified that everything is working, connect everything and check resistance values from terminals that are connected to make sure you don't have a bad connection or broken/pinched wire. (If you don't have a multimeter, get one.)

good luck!! - I probably spend 5-10 hours just searching for 2 electrical problems (1 was a bad switch that I bought new, 2nd was a connector that I somehow let the plastic protective shell wedge between the leads and prevented contact)

-Peter