Just a couple reason why turbo=headache & nitrous=fun
11-09-2006, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dTor
Awe damn, I guess that means I'm a stuck-up POS, too. Shucks. 
I bet I can humble some of the guys running turbo on here. Alot of stock block ST and some TT don't have the power I do. I see alot of guys running 360whp-430whp....some 450whp - most of which are still running 12s....see guys, nitrous ain't all that bad.
11-09-2006, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Old School
I bet I can humble some of the guys running turbo on here. Alot of stock block ST and some TT don't have the power I do. I see alot of guys running 360whp-430whp....some 450whp - most of which are still running 12s....see guys, nitrous ain't all that bad.
11-09-2006, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
And then theres others well into the 11s at that same WHP
When alberto had a ST, he was one of the few ST in the 11s.
I'll be there when I get to the track....can't wait.
you posted any times MIA?
Last edited by Old School; 11-09-2006 at 11:30 AM.
11-09-2006, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Old School
true (that's why I said "alot")...haven't seen any under 400 in the 11s.
When alberto had a ST, he was one of the few ST in the 11s.
I'll be there when I get to the track....can't wait.
you posted any times MIA?
When alberto had a ST, he was one of the few ST in the 11s.
I'll be there when I get to the track....can't wait.
you posted any times MIA?
I've only 1/4 miled the car once to be honest with you. It was 106 F outside and I was running on 19" wheels and street tires. 12.6 @ 114. Twice...thats the extent of my 1.4 mile runs in this car.
11-09-2006, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
I suck at drag racing you don't want to know my times I've only 1/4 miled the car once to be honest with you. It was 106 F outside and I was running on 19" wheels and street tires. 12.6 @ 114. Twice...thats the extent of my 1.4 mile runs in this car.
I've only 1/4 miled the car once to be honest with you. It was 106 F outside and I was running on 19" wheels and street tires. 12.6 @ 114. Twice...thats the extent of my 1.4 mile runs in this car.
11-09-2006, 12:25 PM
#68
i had nitrous before i installed my vortech, i had it installed but never filled the bottle, i decided to go with the vortech instead and yanked out the nitrous. i was a little apprehensive about having the bottle in the car, ie, flammable, compressed gas. i also didnt like the thought of having to fill the bottle all the time, im in boost 80% of the time, so a bottle was out of the question. another thing was the legality of it, if i get pulled over by a cop here in bama, a turbo is ok, while nitrous is not.
im not ragging nitrous, its fine for those that dont want to spend a lot, and want short bursts of power with everyday na drivability.
im not ragging nitrous, its fine for those that dont want to spend a lot, and want short bursts of power with everyday na drivability.
11-09-2006, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by one350zfan
I don't think thats bad at all! On a 125 shot with crazy timing taken out for safety I ran a 12.5 in 70 degree weather on DR's. I have a base so the open differential is limiting me big time. I had lower bottle pressure than whats recommended so I was probably around the same power output you have!
11-09-2006, 12:36 PM
#70
Originally Posted by tig488
i had nitrous before i installed my vortech, i had it installed but never filled the bottle, i decided to go with the vortech instead and yanked out the nitrous. i was a little apprehensive about having the bottle in the car, ie, flammable, compressed gas. i also didnt like the thought of having to fill the bottle all the time, im in boost 80% of the time, so a bottle was out of the question. another thing was the legality of it, if i get pulled over by a cop here in bama, a turbo is ok, while nitrous is not.
im not ragging nitrous, its fine for those that dont want to spend a lot, and want short bursts of power with everyday na drivability.
im not ragging nitrous, its fine for those that dont want to spend a lot, and want short bursts of power with everyday na drivability.
oxidizers accelerate combustion, but they cannot burn by themselves. they require some kind of fuel as well as a combustion or ignition source.
that said, compressed gas cylinders can explode if the valves are severely damaged, but the explosion is 100% pressure-based, nothing having to do with flammability.
even pure oxygen (a much better oxidizer than nitrous) is not flammable or combustible. but no one in their right mind uses pure oxygen in their car engine, it's just too risky since it has a rather explosive effect when it comes in contact with a combustion source
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 11-09-2006 at 12:46 PM.
11-09-2006, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Well, considering some of the exceptional drag racers we have on this board it doesn't seem all that good
Can you provide a link to some of these drivers?
Oh, and before you do, make sure they're pushing around 380whp and running 19" street tires.
I believe Tuarran ran a 12.3 with 19's but ain't he around 400whp.
11-09-2006, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Wow ok well lets see my car has NEVER been tuned. Thats not saying much for your first argument. AS for deviating from whats recommended its not hard to figure out what you can and can't do with an out of box turbo kit. I supposed if you are too proud to read the forums and find the answers then yes you won't have the "vast" knowledge necessary to determine what you should and should not do based on what you have. Its all been tried before and the info is here. But I guess thats not enough for you. When did I say blown motors with a thing to be happy about. My point is that earlier it was said that no one has blown motors with nitrous. Thats not true. If you were around in the early days of the boards there were a few people who lost rods from nitrous. Since then not many people run nitrous so of course there are less chances of seeing a blown motor from nitrous. Its not rocket science. If you have 300 people with a more complex power adder and only 30 or so people with a fairly simple power adder which group do you think is MORE likely to post about an issue? Of course a turbo kit is more difficult to install and longer to install than nitrous. You aren't just adding a bottle, two braided lines, two solenoids, and MAYBE a purge unit and heater. The hardware required for a turbo kit is of course to consist of more since its meant to run power levels higher then nitrous for more amounts of time. If you are not capable of reading the instructions of the turbo kit and installing it properly then you should probably go to a shop. I've helped/installed 4 turbo kits now not including other cars. Its not exactly rocket science. But hey not everyone is as capable of grasping concepts and following instructions as everyone else. As for additional wear ANY PART YOU PUT ON THE CAR that increases HP will increase wear on the motor. Does it increase it to the point its no longer reliable. Well it didn't for mine but since I must be biased according to you lets ask taurran, peking, gumpdriver, meatshackle, 12NV, or one of the other hundreds of boosted Z owners who ALSO have not had a single issue. In the end if you don't think a turbo kit is for you then don't buy it. Go pick up an intake, exhaust, and nitrous if thats all you feel comfortable installing. I never said EVERYONE had to buy a turbo. In fact I think I have stated no less then three times IN THIS THREAD that its up to the owner to decide whats best for them. Regardless of what it is. Oh yeah, bottles are for babies.
11-09-2006, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by iceburns288
Stop trying to talk down on me: I want a turbo kit. Badly. Very badly. I've spent dozens (literally) of hours on here and other sites searching for the setup I believed I could install safely. In the end, after MANY hours of searching, I did not believe I could afford to take the (high) risk of turbocharging my car. That is what led me here.
11-09-2006, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by one350zfan
Like who?
Can you provide a link to some of these drivers?
Oh, and before you do, make sure they're pushing around 380whp and running 19" street tires.
I believe Tuarran ran a 12.3 with 19's but ain't he around 400whp.
Can you provide a link to some of these drivers?
Oh, and before you do, make sure they're pushing around 380whp and running 19" street tires.
I believe Tuarran ran a 12.3 with 19's but ain't he around 400whp.
11-09-2006, 06:50 PM
#75
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
just FYI, and I'm sure it's been stated before, but nitrous is not flammable, it is an oxidizer.
oxidizers accelerate combustion, but they cannot burn by themselves. they require some kind of fuel as well as a combustion or ignition source.
that said, compressed gas cylinders can explode if the valves are severely damaged, but the explosion is 100% pressure-based, nothing having to do with flammability.
even pure oxygen (a much better oxidizer than nitrous) is not flammable or combustible. but no one in their right mind uses pure oxygen in their car engine, it's just too risky since it has a rather explosive effect when it comes in contact with a combustion source
oxidizers accelerate combustion, but they cannot burn by themselves. they require some kind of fuel as well as a combustion or ignition source.
that said, compressed gas cylinders can explode if the valves are severely damaged, but the explosion is 100% pressure-based, nothing having to do with flammability.
even pure oxygen (a much better oxidizer than nitrous) is not flammable or combustible. but no one in their right mind uses pure oxygen in their car engine, it's just too risky since it has a rather explosive effect when it comes in contact with a combustion source
youre right, you know what i mean. i know nitrous doesnt burn, but it does "react well with heat and pressure", lol, hows that?
11-09-2006, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by iceburns288
Stop trying to talk down on me: I want a turbo kit. Badly. Very badly. I've spent dozens (literally) of hours on here and other sites searching for the setup I believed I could install safely. In the end, after MANY hours of searching, I did not believe I could afford to take the (high) risk of turbocharging my car. That is what led me here.
So you installing Nitrous??
11-09-2006, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
i ran 11.9 at 115 on a 125 shot... hehehe
i love when people say that they arent good drag racers, that to me pretty much means you cant drive...
drag racing is basically taking off and driving your car....
i love when people say that they arent good drag racers, that to me pretty much means you cant drive...
drag racing is basically taking off and driving your car....
11-09-2006, 09:31 PM
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So, let's say i bought a nitrous bottle (whatever the average size is). How many minutes or seconds of increased power would I get, per bottle? And aren't the negative effects on the engine of the increase HP and TQ cumulative, so that each time i use it, i come that much closer to my engine breaking? Does it make sense to use NOS without engine modifications? Thanks in advance guys. Very curious about NOS now, but don't want to seriously endanger my daily driver.
11-09-2006, 10:22 PM
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Well it seems there is a lot of talk on nitrous from the import seen, but coming from the domestic side of things, nitrous is still a big player... I can't count the number of LSx cars out there running spray (Camaro's, TransAm's, C5's, C6's, Z06's, GTO's). Hell I've seen 5.0 stangs with 100k+ miles on the motor before getting hit with 100-150 shots more times than they probably should and still keep ticking. I did in my old coupe and shocked a lot of F-Body owners who thought there bolt on LS1 was quick
With the mustangs it was a little different since most people run a simple dry kit. That means only nitrous is sprayed and extra fuel is provided my the injectors. This is easy with a return style fuel system, you use nitrous pressure to adjust the fuel regulator, increasing fuel pressure to the injectors, which gives you more fuel...
Its simple, with FI or nitrous you are increasing cylinder pressures by adding more air with more fuel to increase power. The increase in cylinder pressure combined with an improper tune (read detonation) is what causes failures. Something common with the LS1's early was head lift under boost, something that FI Z people are having issues with currently. Now I haven't put the bottle on my Z, not because I would even be slightly fearful of it, but because I enjoy my car as it is for the moment.
Keys for safe nitrous fun...
(Some of these aren't necessary when using a controller which can monitor throttle position, rpm ect. ect.)
WOT switch: you only spray at full throttle. Running nitrous on a button is for the movies IMHO
Reduced timing and run Colder plugs: reduce potential detonation.
Window switch: This will only allow the system to spray between 3000rpms -rev limiter, or slightly before.
Maintain proper bottle pressure: Running low pressure reduces the amount of nitrous delivered.
Blow Down Tube: Very important, and a must at most tracks that do proper tech inspections. If pressure in the bottle becomes too high, there are disk that will burst before the bottle is at risk of failure. The pressure relief valve should be connected to a blow down tube which exits through the trunk/floorpan. This will send the nitrous outside of the vehicle so your not going down the track in a cloud of nitrous
Install the bottle with the valve angled up, facing the front of the vehicle, and the nipple the line connects to facing down: This keep the siphon tube submerged in the liquid nitrous oxide when the vehicle in accelerating.
Fuel pressure switch: cuts nitrous flow if fuel pressure drops.
Never use a blow torch ect. to heat a bottle
Darwin Award potential... use proper blankets, heaters to control and maintain bottle pressure.
Purge kits... honestly they aren't the most important thing. If your deciding between spending your hard earned $$$ on a bottle heater or a purge kit, go with the heater. Yes the purge kit gets rid of air (nitrous that has boiled off to gas form) but remember your talking about the amount of air that is contained in the line between the bottle and the solenoid (not much, about 15' of AN-3 or AN-4 line). Also unless you just like throwing money down the drain, don't sit there and do long *** purges... You are just wasting nitrous ($$$) and lowering your bottle pressure. A quick tap is all that is needed, remember you have 1000psi in the bottle, it will force the air out of the line very quickly
.
I'm tired of typing, feel free to audit anything I typed, but my point is; nitrous is a fun and safe power adder that when properly used and tuned will give great results for little $...
With the mustangs it was a little different since most people run a simple dry kit. That means only nitrous is sprayed and extra fuel is provided my the injectors. This is easy with a return style fuel system, you use nitrous pressure to adjust the fuel regulator, increasing fuel pressure to the injectors, which gives you more fuel...
Its simple, with FI or nitrous you are increasing cylinder pressures by adding more air with more fuel to increase power. The increase in cylinder pressure combined with an improper tune (read detonation) is what causes failures. Something common with the LS1's early was head lift under boost, something that FI Z people are having issues with currently. Now I haven't put the bottle on my Z, not because I would even be slightly fearful of it, but because I enjoy my car as it is for the moment.
Keys for safe nitrous fun...
(Some of these aren't necessary when using a controller which can monitor throttle position, rpm ect. ect.)
WOT switch: you only spray at full throttle. Running nitrous on a button is for the movies IMHO
Reduced timing and run Colder plugs: reduce potential detonation.
Window switch: This will only allow the system to spray between 3000rpms -rev limiter, or slightly before.
Maintain proper bottle pressure: Running low pressure reduces the amount of nitrous delivered.
Blow Down Tube: Very important, and a must at most tracks that do proper tech inspections. If pressure in the bottle becomes too high, there are disk that will burst before the bottle is at risk of failure. The pressure relief valve should be connected to a blow down tube which exits through the trunk/floorpan. This will send the nitrous outside of the vehicle so your not going down the track in a cloud of nitrous
Install the bottle with the valve angled up, facing the front of the vehicle, and the nipple the line connects to facing down: This keep the siphon tube submerged in the liquid nitrous oxide when the vehicle in accelerating.
Fuel pressure switch: cuts nitrous flow if fuel pressure drops.
Never use a blow torch ect. to heat a bottle
Darwin Award potential... use proper blankets, heaters to control and maintain bottle pressure.Purge kits... honestly they aren't the most important thing. If your deciding between spending your hard earned $$$ on a bottle heater or a purge kit, go with the heater. Yes the purge kit gets rid of air (nitrous that has boiled off to gas form) but remember your talking about the amount of air that is contained in the line between the bottle and the solenoid (not much, about 15' of AN-3 or AN-4 line). Also unless you just like throwing money down the drain, don't sit there and do long *** purges... You are just wasting nitrous ($$$) and lowering your bottle pressure. A quick tap is all that is needed, remember you have 1000psi in the bottle, it will force the air out of the line very quickly
.I'm tired of typing, feel free to audit anything I typed, but my point is; nitrous is a fun and safe power adder that when properly used and tuned will give great results for little $...
Last edited by jakesford; 11-09-2006 at 10:50 PM.