So I got this deal today and just could not turn it down. I got all of this for only $200!

This is the entire kit!



These are the NOS selonoids and the purge selonoid



Some fuel pressure regulator switch, that Im not entirely 100% on. I guess it will shut off the NOS selonoid if the pressure gets to high?!!


So it is a dry kit, which Im not very fond of, and am probably not going to keep that aspect of the kit. I figured though, I have a bottle, bottle heater, guage, blow-down tube so I can use it at the track, brackets to mount it, and if possible a fuel regualtor switch will be a safety device.

He also through in this amp, because he was in a giving mood I guess!


Needless to say Im pretty excited. Im gonna go with all NX accessories though. I will be shopping this week!

 

nice ~ were you able to check that the solenoids worked? The Z is not easily compatible with a dry kit, but it's not hard to pick up a fuel solenoid. (Why are there 3 solenoids...1 nitrous, 1 purge - is it a 2 stage dry kit, or a wet kit?)

*the fuel pressure cut-off switch is to stop N20 if the fuel pressure drop below a preset point...if you loose fuel pressure, you'll go lean, and that's when things go Boom!

-Peter

 

Im not even gonna use those solenoids, because I dont wasnt to go with a dry kit. I was going to use a full NX setup in that aspect of things.

I think I have a good idea of how that thing works then. I assume you send the power wire to the NOS solenoid to that fuel pressure switch first, then to the solenoid. Then split put the hoses in between the car's FPR and the fuel line. Does this sound correct?

 

you'll want to run the low current wire going to your solenoid relay through the fuel pressure safety switch (you'll want to check the power capbabailty of it if you want to run the main power wiring through it).

Pick up the AAM or PTP (or TPT??) fuel line adapter...it provides a clean way to pick up fuel - you'd use the same location to mount the fuel pressure safety switch as well.

-Peter

 

I was planning on getting the AAM fuel line adapter. Thats a good point too though, installing the Fuel pressure switch thing, wont be hard, as I can just put it right there. Everything is still kinda wired together, and from the looks of it, the power wire does go through the relay first. But do I just hook up the power wire directly to the battery? Seems like a lot of volts and all?

Im also not sure why I have two solenoids if its a dry kit. Is this some weird NOS thing, one activates it and the other is the actual NOS solenoid? Just curious really, because like I said, I hopefully wont even be using those.

 

sometimes people set up two solenoids in parrallel for safety in case one solenoid goes bad.


looks good man, hopefully you can use a lot of it and get it all running here really soon!!!

i have one fuel tap left here and i need to order more of them to keep in stock....

 

I dont mean to hate but that was prob worth about 100 bucks in the condition he gave u that nos kit.. also he threw in that amp because its garbage it wont even last ten mins if u look at the rms.. its a measly 4x50rms and 2x100rms= continuous wattage= no power.. .. he only gave you that because otherwise it was going in the garbage.. just my opinion.. I would never let that amp touch any 350z...

 

For the relay portion, relays has 4 wires:
-battery to relay (high current)
-relay to solenoid (high current)
-relay to ground (low current)
-12Vdc power source on switch (low current)

the switch is what is used to send the high current from the battery, through the relay, and to the solenoids...the reason you use a relay is that if you used just a switch to do this, high current would flow through the switch and could possible melt it (many switches cannot handle high currents). So any other electronic or saftey switchs (micro switch, fuel saftey switch,.window/TPS switches) will be run in series with the low current portion of the relay...that way, when all conditions are met (all switches closed), the relay will allow the high current to flow.

hope that makes sense.

-Peter

 

yep, blaupunkt = rubbish. i wouldn't even be excited if he through that in. I'd probably be insulted that anyone would think i wanted that crap.

 

That looks like a 5.0 EFI Mustang kit. The 2 solenoids are simply the way NOS kits work at bumping up the fuel pressure. You can get tthe instructions from NOS just look up 5.0 EFI Mustang, to help you figure stuff out. But you basically paid $200 for a bottle, a heater a purge, and a gauge. You got screwed. I have picked up NX kits for $300 cdn with that stuff. The solenoids I wouldnt touch them till you rebuild them. The main feed line look at that thing replace it. The relays why use them replace them so you dont have problems. It looks like you have a MSD switch why?? Will you even use the damn thing?? The other thing is the bottle good any more it has an expiry date you know. Only 5 yrs I think then you have to get it checked before they will fill it.. I dont know I think that guy gave it to you in the butt though.

LOL LOL

 

Wow, I dont really look at it like that at all.

I dont mind the fact that I paid $200 for only a bottle, heater, fuel pressure safety switch, blow down tube, guage, purge kit, brackets and a couple relays and switches. How anyone thinks this is a rip off Im not sure of. The bottle heater alone is $165 from dynotunenitrous.com. I guess you could get a used one for about $80 Im guessing.

This kit was on a VW golf, I guess it could be similar to one of the 5.0 Mustang kits. I did speak with my friend today. He said there are two solenoids for safety like Jeremy mentioned. That blue thing in the middle of the two solenoids is to increase fuel pressure like already mentioned also.

All in all, I figure I can put together the rest of the kit for about $200 or so more. I can then sell the MSD rpm activated unit, and the NOS solenoids to someone in town for a couple bucks and be around $350-$400 for my full NOS kit. How anyone thinks this is a bad deal Im not sure.

I know the amp is junk. I dont care. It is going to go in my $100 civic though and will fit the bill just nicely. How anyone thinks a free amp is stupid is beyond me.

Tell you what, whoever finds me a more complete kit, for this amount of money, SHOW ME! I will buy it! That is a guarentee!

 

Also, striker, I dont have the feed line, I think you are looking at the line for the guage. And if you can somehow tell that it is bad from that picture, you are a genious with some crazy good vision!

 

AHHH, You could be right I am a genious and do have phenomenal vision to go with it. I think it is due to the fact I am across the river from Detroit. But those kits dont go for very much at all around here. I forget that some people in other parts of the continent pay more for stuff. Hell UPS charges me $30 some odd bucks to clear parts that only cost $10 plus the damn dutty and taxes. Oh well. I still think you have some work cut out for you but it is an adventure any way so have fun with it. I have started redoing my kit today and will be finished in a bit except for a new fuel tap I had to butcher that for the T. Hopefully I will get one in a few weeks to make my kit complete.


But squirt it till it blows and then buy a new motor and well do the same on that one. Go smoke from Vipers or those Gt Porsches they are fun too.


LOL

 

I dont plan on blowing my motor with juice, but I will race some fun exotic cars. Not too sure about Vipers though!

Like I said though, if anyone is up to find me a more capable kit for cheap money, let me know. I have no problem putting this kit in my beater or just reselling it.

 

Yea, as soon as I find a good deal I'll make sure to call you. Sorry man, that does look like something I would have thrown out too. Getting $200 for it was probably a great deal - for him.

 

Im fine with that. If you find a better deal, let me know. It was only $200 too guys. If you think I took it up the A** on a deal that only cost $200, then maybe you guys should be considering new jobs. If this kit were going in my Honda or a Mustang, I would probably be hearing about what a good deal I got. I still cant understand why a bottle, heater, purge, blow down tube, full throttle switch, fuel pressure switch, guage and some switches and a relay isnt worth $200 to you. I think you are all looking at the solenoids a little too much, in which Ive already said Im going to replace about 5 times. Im pretty much done with this thread now. Just wait till I post dyno sheets and total cost of kit!