jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

I've been having some problems with my new nitrous setup, and think I have it narrowed down to the nitrous oxide itself. When I purge the system, I should be able to smell the sulfur it the nitrous, right? I purge for 2-5 seconds and I see the white cloud and smell nothing. I know your not supose to inhale the gas, but I don't get light headed or anything. When I run the car and turn the system on I get a sudden loss in power and the car will not accelerate. I've double and triple checked all my wiring and pluming and can't find the problem. I know that both solenoids are firing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Derek Dee

iTrader: (19)

Empty bottle and get it refilled at a different shop.

Pooner

I'm not so sure you would be able to smell it.

The amount of sulfur in consumer nitrous is very, very small. Chances are it's only enough to make your lungs burn if you did try to inhale it.

It sounds more like your nitrous solenoid isn't even opening, but your fuel is.

Thus, you're incredibly rich on the bottle, and thats why you're losing power.

jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice guys. The solenoids are defiantly working. I have manually activated the solenoids by taking the nozzle out of the intake tube and revving up the engine. I see the white cloud but only smell gasoline.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

You are not gonna smell the sulfer. Its to keep ppl from inhaling it. What system do you have? Wet or dry? NX, Zex, NOS, Venom, NS, Dynotune, Edlebrock???? Where's the bottle? Lines ran inside or outside the car? What fuel tap did you use if you're using a wet system? Do you have relays on the solenoids? Is there a tuner box that came with the system? We need specifics if you want us to help diagnose your problem. I've ran into a few hic-ups during installs and test/tune on a few cars...so I might be able to point you in the right direction, but I need specifics.

edit - to test the solenoids....rig a light bulb (automotive bulb) as a testing tool and wire it in the same as the solenoid with the solenoid disconnected. That will tell you if your solenoids are working without using all your nitrous.

jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

It was a new in the box NX Custom EFI stage 1 wet system with a regular "T" fuel tap, lines ran underneath the car, and a dynotune 2 in 1 switch. No leaks when the system is armed and solenoids were tested before I hooked up the lines and after. Bottle it behind the passenger seat in the cargo aera.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

hmmm....do you have management or stock ECU? Dynotune 2 in 1 switch?? Is that the TPS/Window switch? I would check the wiring on this item as the directions that come with it BLOW! Even the directions for setting the switch after install sucks. Sounds like you might have used both wires for the tach signal. You only need one if I'm not mistaken. Give me some more details on the power loss. I'm thinking the dynotune switch is yankin power (spark) from 1 of the 2 banks.

EDIT: only other thing I can think of is the fuel pressure dropping and the stock ECU picking it up...but since it happens when you arm the system (and not sprayin), I would think this wouldn't happen until you actually sprayed.

jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

Yes it's the dynotune TPS/Window switch. I have the ONE wire that goes to the coil installed correctly because it shows the tach when you push and hold the number 1 button on the unit. It also shows changes in the tach when you rev the engine.

The ECU is stock.

I have the other wire that goes to the tps wired correctly because it shows the voltage correctly when pressing the accelerator.

The power loss ONLY happens when I reach the set parameters on the switch (3500-6200 PRM and WOT). Not when I arm it.

The Jets are correct size, installed correctly and seem to be spraying fine.
.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

do you have relays on the solenoids and switches? These are HIGH current parts....it'll pull power from where ever it can...this could be the culprit.

The TPS wire is on pin 50 of the ECM...I tapped into the wire @ the Throttle body (green with a white stripe).

check your voltage....
-engine off, key turned to 'on' position, manual in 1st gear:
1) accelrator pedal up: ~.5V @ tps wire
2) accelrator pedal fully depressed: ~4.5V @ tps wire

EDIT: I would also check how you wired the dynotune switch from the solenoids, your activation switch, and purge button. Its easy to overlook things when you get excited about power. Anymore info you can provide would be good....sounds kinda weird, but I like helping solve problems like this. I wired my switch so that its completely OFF (without power) until I hit the activations switch....then the dynotune switch lights up and is ready to go.

jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I got the relay that came with the kit I think its 40 amps, its wired to both solenoids. I do have the TPS wire tapped in at the Throttle body on that green wire. Voltage is correct.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

You need a relay for the TPS/Window switch too. It doesn't come with one. I bet that's your problem.

jfptbird

iTrader: (2)

The TPS/WINDOW switch is wired to the relay. Thats how the relay knows when to close, and supply power to the solenoids. The signal wire comming off of the TPS/WINDOW switch is the wire the goes into the relay along with 12volts, switched 12volts, and the solenoids.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

ahhh...you just typed solenoids last time. Just checking. Not sure man. I'd have to look at it. Internet diagnostics is kinda hard without being able to see everything. PM Audible Mayhem....he might be able to figure it out.

I'd check all your grounds too. Sorry bro...good luck.

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

its funny cause i would think the negative -50 degrees or so would be enough to keep people from inhaleing it but nnnooooooo....



hey guys, i will let you all know a secret here in less than two weeks,


can you say NO turbos!!! hahaha im about to set the nitrous bar REALLY high...

so if anyone wants the title for a short time, better grab it now

jksstar

iTrader: (7)

can't wait to see what you come up with, knowing you it will be badass

Old School

iTrader: (28)

Right behind you Jeremy. Saving for the engine build and swaping the EFI kit for direct port with maximizer. 150 down low, 300 up top.

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

i was thinking 200/400 but we will see...

Old School

iTrader: (28)

You could pull that off with your compression. I'm going high compression build.

jksstar

iTrader: (7)

ok, from what I'm getting from all this is

1) your solenoids are working
2) its sounds like you got the window switch wired and working right
3) when the solenoids open you lose power
4) your useing the correct jet size


now
What size shot are you running or trying to run?

what size jets are you useing?

whats your bottle pressure?

Have you looked at you nozzle to make sure its not blocked up on the nitrous side?

so far it sounds to me like its not getting any or to little N2O or way to much fuel.

drap660

iTrader: (4)

Yup its eathier wrong jet sizes... Very low bottle pressure or the place thats filling your bottles sucks.... Have you tried getting the bottle filled somewhere else... What are your jet sizes????