12SecZ

http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm

http://home.ican.net/~jsetter/nitrous.html

It's up to you.

XBS

iTrader: (29)

someone told me the n2o shot goes after the MAFS but im reading that in a dry shot it goes before the MAFS so it can know how much fuel to add, does anyone here actually have a dry kit on a z?

12SecZ

I think you are reading outdated data and fallacious logic to do your research. I have used both wet and dry. If you really want to do it right get the NOS Direct Port Fogger for 1300.00 bucks it is the best on the market!

I didn't want to personlize the issue, I prefer others form their own conclusions but both the ZEX, Nitrous Works, Venom and Nitroux Express (NX) TM's are only making wet kits for our 2003 Z's. They specialize in N20 induction so I defer to them. There MUST be a reason for this. The old days of "anything under 75HP should be dry" is outdated because this is the maximum jet for Zex's wet kit! Why?

My kit is wet from ZEX with 75HP jets. I have all NHRA safety devices implemented except for a DS Loop (which are a PITA.)

A known fact is that a Wet Kit is safer, controls your fuel pressure and puts down more horse power (comparison a 75HP dry VS. 75HP Wet on a Dyno.)

Some here may scream of "wet kit puddling" but I for one am not concerned about that. I like my Wet kit because it's safer, more accurate and the fuel injection is controlled.

Others may form their own conclusions these are just mine.

HTH's.

XBS

iTrader: (29)

thanks for your input, i wont be going with a direct port fogger system because its too much money for just a 75 shot also i didnt know that a wet gave more power, now i am definetaly going wet, BTW what other things did u buy for safety i want to do it right but with out going direct port, thanks

Importlife.com

Not saying you are wrong or trying to stir things up, but...

Nitrous isnt flammable and will not explode like in the movie fast and the furious. This is a common misconception, thanks to hollywood.

If someone shoots a machine gun at your car and only hits the nitrous, then it wont blow up your car. but if lots of bullets hit the nitrous bottle and the fuel in the car, then the oxygen in the Nitrous bottle will leak and accelerate the burning of the fuel.

If you blow up your car with a nitrous bottle you would probably be the 1st ever.

12SecZ

Safety pressure release valve, blow down tube, purge, spark plugs 2 degrees colder.

That's about it.

Yeah dry to me is yesterdays technology.

eskimo

Might help to read the original post before you repeat it.

Edit: Also, if you did shoot a full tank it most likely would do that damage ~750psi of force being released all at once like that would send the bottle into shrapnel, likely rupturing the fuel tank and causing a decent spark on the frame work. In the case of the photo the bottle was heated at 400F for over 5 hours creating a condition in excess of 3000psi, definatlly creating shrapnel.

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

I'm not totally sure about the Z, but almost all new cars today don't use return fuel lines which would be why you can only use wet or direct port kits on newer cars. On a dry kit, you would hook up a solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator to pump more fuel through the injectors... but since there isn't one in the engine comparment of cars with returnless fuel lines, then you would have to run one from the gas tank... which is kinda dumb since braided hoses aren't cheap. Anyway, that's my guess as to why there isn't anyone making a dry kit for the Z.

eskimo

I would agree with you, but dry kits are made for other cars with returnless fuel systems.

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

Eh? I don't know of any dry kits for returnless fuel systems...
I do know that some people put a dry kit's nossle in front of the MAF so the MAF can detect the extra oxygen and release more fuel. It's not a good idea to do this cuz you can damage the MAF after a while.

eskimo

Seeing as most kits are not designed specifically per car, nor do they need to be due to the simplicity of design, particularlly in a wet kit, I can't provide you with the part number of a dry kit for a returnless fuel system vehicle. However, feel free to check the websites of any car made since ~1998-2000 and after, you'll most likely find them running dry kits. One such website I know of is 7thgencivic.com, 2001-2003 civic's returnless fuel systems, many members running nitrous set ups, mostly dry applications.

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

Interesting... maybe I'll go see how they're doing this, but if they're legit and are able to make the computer give out more fuel without putting the nossle in front of the MAF, I'll definitely go this route cuz modern intake manifolds aren't meant for liquids going through them. Thanks for the heads up.

350zhawaii

Mr. B,
That was my problem with trying to install the dry kit on my car. No return line, I called NOS for help and waited 2 months for their answer. I got tired of waiting and install a wet kit instead. I'm using a 80 shot jets....I engine handle it with ease.

Bryan H

I too prefer wet kits, but there are a number of returnless fuel system cars running dry kits. All 99+ mustangs are returnless, and many people have dry kits. For this reason, a good tune is absolutely necessary so the computer can compensate for the nitrous and add more fuel through the injectors. Most people do not rely solely on the MAF to increase fuel flow.

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

I guess they tune the computer to run richer most of the time then, yeah? See, that's something I'm not sure I wanna do cuz then I'd just be wasting gas most of the time. Maybe I'll go see how much a direct port kit will set me back.

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

I'll never pay retail for that.
Btw, anyone have experience with Nos' Nozzle or Nossle system? I read about how some of the plastic hoses fly off if not cut right or something. But that's scary! If some of those hoses fly off (especially the fuel hoses), you can have a huge fire roaring!

McDan

What's the best way to tap into the fuel system? I have pulled off the fuel hose with damper and cannot find a suitable spt to T in. There is a quick disconnect, but I'd need some kind of connector. Can someone please please post pics of their fuel line tap, or else tell me how it was done? Doesn't anyone install things themselves anymore?

Thanks,

Dan

02trex

Purchase a fuel pressure adapter from SPX Kent-Moore, part number J44321-4. To install, you need to remove two screws holding the fuel damper in place, then remove the damper. Place the pressure adapter where the damper was originally located and place the damper "behind" the adapter. You will need longer screws to complete the installation; the original screws are not long enough.

The adapter comes with a fitting that can be removed and replaced with a fitting for the ZEX fuel line.

SPX Kent-Moore can be reached at 800 345-2233; the adapter costs about $30.00.

2003z33