STLZ

It wil just melt the threads that are exposed for the longer plugs that should originally fit in the engine because the thread depth is shorter on the zex plugs. If you are running fine then don't worry about it.

12SecZ

At what temp do the ZEX plugs "melt"?

This too was addressed by ZEX but I want to hear your answer because I think you are the one that said they would ruin the head of my engine and the head would have to be rethreaded?

Trying to get this straight here, lots of disinformation floating around. Yesterday was 90 degrees and I made 5 passes at the track so at what temp will they "melt?"

STLZ

Not the plugs, I plugs won't melt. To clear this up it is the threads on the head. They are aluminum. When you put a shorter plug in the thread on the head is exposed because the plug is shorter. Now you are drawing up the spark into where the plug is where the heat is now melting the aluminum thread that is exposed. Now if you went back to a longer plug it will only go as deep as the shorter plug because the thread to get the plug all the way down is now gone. Melted. So you will have to tap it to get the original plug depth back.

12SecZ

So the block will melt and need to be rethreaded but I "shouldn't worry about it." The plugs won't melt but the block will now?

I'm confused and so is ZEX on this statement. I think they are reading this thread too and maybe this could help them.

At what temp does this occur? I could ask my brother he is a microbioligist in Vegas (yeah he is a rocket scientis lol.)
He took major chemistry classes and has a Masters.

STLZ

Now you got it.. It is the thread on the block that will melt... Not at what temp but when. I would say a 1,000 miles maybe more.. That is what my tech, well a couple of the techs told me. I had those zex plugs in and the car was sputtering when I shifted. So I asked them about it and I installed the plugs myself and told them that they were shorter. And thats when they told me to take them out. So I did the sputtering went away. I did order the NGK plugs that are the same length as the stock plugs just a degree colder. So I hope that wil help.

12SecZ

1 degree probably isn't enough and they probably cross threaded your block. Good luck!

I think the temp that aluminum melts is over 3000!

Why mileage and not temp doesn't jive heat melts not miles.

I will confirm.

STLZ

I don't know they said the longer i drive around on them the likely the threads will probably melt.

12SecZ

I think you may want to find out instead of just saying I don't know because maybe they cross threaded your head.

From ZEX in email (out of context slightly to protect the autor.)

STLZ

You are misunderstanding. I did not cross thread. The reason you would have to rethread the head is because the plug isnt long enough leaving the remainder of the block thread exposed. So it will melt the exosed thread on the block when the plug has to draw the spark up into the head beacuse it isn't long enough.
I don't have to rethread I took them out the next day so I wouldn't have to rethread the block down the road because of the exposed thread that was melted because the plug wasn't the right thread depth.

STLZ

In all the plugs that Zex sold you and me are to short!

12SecZ

I understand but according to ZEX it's a non issue so what proof do you have of this occuring; that is what I am getting at before I pull my plugs because there isn't any other plugs available that are two degrees off so you are out of spec on your plugs according to everything I have read and according to ZEX Specs.

So you avoided what you can't confirm is a problem yet (but may indeed be) and created another real one by using the wrong plug to spray?

So back to square one and question one.

At what temp does this "melting" occur?

This is a good thread that will benefit all!

Thanks,

Max

STLZ

I will talk to my tech and get better information. I will post back next weak.

STLZ

sorry, next week.

12SecZ

I guestimated at 3000 degrees.

Aluminum actualls boils at 2880,

dang that's one hot engine!

gotti

Are we still talkin nitrous....at all? lol

12SecZ

Yeah the plugs pay a major role in N20 applications and we need to get to the bottom of this because I want 2 degrees not one, they can't be found and ZEX says theirs (2 degrees are fine.)

I want to know for sure before I pull my plugs for nothing and so yes this is important to N20 apps and we need an answer it's just STLZ and I trying to find out to help others no one else is chiming in it seems.

McDan

Back to the big BAD nitrous kit post. Speaking of BAD nitrous kits, lets hear it for ZEX.... (insert cricket noises)... After speding 3 weeks troubleshooting on the phone with them and one week shipping the unit back to them for "bench testing", THE ****** F%CKER STILL ISN'T WORKING RIGHT!!!!!! I have spend well over the purchasing cost in time trying to get the defective POS to program correctly. ZEX now wants me to ship it back to them AGAIN for some more testing they have already done which doesn't fully simulate the unit. I've asked them to send me a new unit so I can rule out the possibility of a malfunctioning control box (and charge me for it until they recieve mine in return)and they have refused. Basic problem is the solenoids click open and won't stay open at WOT. I've tried programming it 10 different ways, monitoring the TPS voltage at every possible occurance. I've had it. I'm giving them two options, we'll all see how responsive their Customer Service truely is:

Option #1: Overnight me a brand new control box. By overnight I mean Saturday FedEx delivery. Charge me the full amount of the unit until my current unit has been received.

Option #2: I uninstall the kit and return the bastard for a full refund to Summit Racing and search daily for posts containing ZEX to pass along my experiences.

Any other options will be denied and defaulted to Option 2.


-One Very Pissed Off Dan

jl215

I've been looking around and didn't seem to find a dry-kit application specific to the Z. Does anyone know if any exist for our cars, or do we have to use wet-kit because of no return fuel line? My decision to use a dry-kit was based on ease of installation, price, and less risk of puddling. Thanks.

McDan

I too wanted a dry system. However, there is no good way to supply the extra fuel through the stock fuel system. There is no fuel return line and thus, no fuel pressure regulator (only two dampers). One possible option would be to go with larger injectors. However the Apexi SFC-II or whatever it's called fuel controller cannot support large enough injectors for nitrous. So you're out of luck in the near future for a dry kit.


Also, to continue my ranting above, ZEX said their is nothing wrong with their control box, but they'd retest it again if I sent it back to them. . . Wait till they see my next post below....

Dan

McDan

Ladies and Gentlemen of the Jury, I present to you EXHIBIT A. One solder-splatter short on the control circuit board of the ZEX control unit. That's right, the same damn control box they "bench tested" at their facilities. This short fried the unit and has cost me upwards of 24 hours in troubleshooting time. I've even had to call my credit card company to dispute the charges for this kit.