don't forget your fuel system. Advice on octane levels is great but nobody mentioned to him about possibly swapping injectors or his fuel pump. Especially if he is planning on building the motor. I think Dsport ran a great article on spray a cpl years ago and how to calculate roughly what injector size you needed (if stock would work) and fuel pump. Very good article try and dig it out from under the ****.

 

Search function is your friend. We have several people with a 150 shot on stock block with stock injectors and fuel pump (granted everything is controlled with at least a UTEC). You're getting closer to its limits, but you don't need to replace them just yet. Plus, it's not like one will constantly be spraying 150 shot at all times anyway.

 

true. the utec will do just about everything. and no i wont be spraying all the time. two times a month maybe 3.

 

because its fun to play with $1500 (before you throw down for the build) and make this.....

(150 shot, utec, i/h/e/tp/spacer)

 

insane torque man!!

 

I'm sorry, but can you clarify that dyno chart? is the comparison numbers reflecting nitrous and motor pulls?

Which would read as:

Motor: 313.5hp/304.2tq
150 Shot: 431.4hp/364.6tq

Gain on shot: 117.9hp/60.4tq

If thats right, what is wrong with your car? Cause you should be picking up ALOT more torque on a shot like that...

I also thought SGP had chassis dyno's, further supported by the print out, so why is it being rated in flywheel horsepower?

 

hone in your reading skillz...lol. You have torque and hp reversed.

first line is all motor pull, no nitrous. second is 75 shot map, 3rd line is 150 shot map.

SGP has a dynapack. they take your wheels off and connect it to your hub. Their dyno reads low. All motor with all my bolt ons I made 233/240 (most stock Z's makes this on a dynojet). 75 shot made 304/314. 150 shot made 366/438. Mark did a couple runs with 150 shot...the last one (364/431) stuck on this dyno...first 150 shot pull made more. Add up the numbers there bub. That's over 200 ft/lbs of torque gained in less than 300rpms. Whip lash is an understatement. This dyno is two years old....alot more goodies on the car now.

don't pay attention to "flywheel" on the dynosheet...everything is rated to the wheels. Good friends with the guys at SGP. I know the shop and dyno pretty well.

 

I have never had to beef up a block for nitrous as of yet but if your wanting to for the added insurance that you dont have a problem i would go from the bottom up.

I built a higher compression 4 banger once. This car had no nitrous it was an all motor project. Well i built the top up up first, shaved the head, thinner head gasket, reworked the valves, ect. I got more power but it was a high mileage motor so once i started it about 2 minutes into the idle it spun a main bearing. So i ended up dropping the block again to have to hone the cylinders again, new crankshaft and rods, new main bearings.

So if your car is gettin up thier in miles it probally wouldnt hurt to at least build the bottom up first, maybe lap the valves as well. Again though this is if your just dead set on building up the motor and if its gettin up thier in miles.

 

Our fuel pump produces more PSI then most kits are designed for... Most shot charts go off 43 psi fuel pressure.

Remember, we use wet kits so fuel is adjusted through the nozzle!