150 shot?
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150 shot?
i want to run 150 shot but i want to know whats the most important thing that i should upgrade. I have intake, exhaust, test pipes, plenum, one step colder plugs, zex nitrous kit and Utec. i want to know if i should work on the head or block? im thinking bottom is better to build if im going nitrous but what should i do first? thanks.
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The most important thing you need to upgrade is your knowledge and understanding of nitrous. Instead of asking questions that have been asked more than you can count, why not do a simple search and find the answer out yourself and in the process, learn a few other things?
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Fine. You don't NEED to build anything for a 150 shot, although it may behoove you in the future. There are many people with 150 shot (some even have tried 175, although it was progressive) who are doing fine. Just be sure to get a proper tune for the 150 shot and, of course, running race gas will always help with premature detonation. Just be smart, use common sense, and be careful.
#6
Most people will say 100shot is the safe limit for the stock internals. For 150shot it's a good idea to have an spare engine ready. Other than that, just get a Utec (or some other emu that can retard timing) and get it tuned professionally.
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well i just want to be well prepared. I have a little extra money and i might as well spend it right. I believe the pistons get worked more than the head with nitrous right? so i might just get forged pistons and rods.
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
well i just want to be well prepared. I have a little extra money and i might as well spend it right. I believe the pistons get worked more than the head with nitrous right? so i might just get forged pistons and rods.
It creates a lot of pressure and heat in the cylinder.
Plus it's important that you look into the kit you want to put on.
Is it a 150bhp or a 150whp shot?
If it's the 150whp, you're gonna have to do a lot more work then just pistons and rods.
You'll have to change head bolts, harder rings, better gaskets, exhaust, intake, and so on...
And if you did blow it on nitrous, any warranty you have would be void.
Even if you remove all the evidence, they can do a swab of the cylinder wall to look for a residue that would confirm that nitrous was involved.
Nitrous can be fun, but if you don't play right, you will be replacing a motor out of your pocket.
So remember that the "Little extra money" you have, can cost you a lot of money in the end.
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I just noticed you said you have a ZEX kit.
I use ZEX also, and mine works out at WHP.
My last years set-up with the 75 shot and a utec netted me 77hp at the wheels, so if you're planning on using the ZEX 150 shot, you may want to be careful.
I use ZEX also, and mine works out at WHP.
My last years set-up with the 75 shot and a utec netted me 77hp at the wheels, so if you're planning on using the ZEX 150 shot, you may want to be careful.
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yea i have been running 100 shot for the past 2 months. ive probably used it 10-12 times in 2 months, it just gets addicting and i want more. so now im planing on cp pistons, rings, eagle rods, crower cams, valve springs and retainers. i think it should be ok for 175 shot after that, correct me if im wrong or advice me, thanks for all your help.
#13
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There are lots of reasons for using nitrous over the other FI methods, including but not limited to:
- Gas mileage is normal when not on the spray
- Only spray when necessary
- Cheaper (unless you're constantly spraying for decades)
- Can install/uninstall with ease
- Instant torque (no weak SC or waiting for turbos to spool up)
- More of a sleeper look
Of course, there are always both pros and cons. It's all personal preference. If you're going to start the "Why didn't you do ____," then I might as well ask you guys the same thing. Why not get a faster car (ex. Z06) for the price you guys spend on FI + car? It'll be much more reliable and much faster when you beginning modding that. There's never going to be an end. So, let's just drop this and either contribute to the thread or move along.
- Gas mileage is normal when not on the spray
- Only spray when necessary
- Cheaper (unless you're constantly spraying for decades)
- Can install/uninstall with ease
- Instant torque (no weak SC or waiting for turbos to spool up)
- More of a sleeper look
Of course, there are always both pros and cons. It's all personal preference. If you're going to start the "Why didn't you do ____," then I might as well ask you guys the same thing. Why not get a faster car (ex. Z06) for the price you guys spend on FI + car? It'll be much more reliable and much faster when you beginning modding that. There's never going to be an end. So, let's just drop this and either contribute to the thread or move along.
Last edited by 3hree5ive0ero; 05-20-2008 at 09:50 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
yea i have been running 100 shot for the past 2 months. ive probably used it 10-12 times in 2 months, it just gets addicting and i want more. so now im planing on cp pistons, rings, eagle rods, crower cams, valve springs and retainers. i think it should be ok for 175 shot after that, correct me if im wrong or advice me, thanks for all your help.
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I've had great success with 150 shot and utec... I always ran race gas like a 109 unleaded.
Also, I don't think I ever used that size shot on the street... It was useless with the tires I had at the time.
Also, I don't think I ever used that size shot on the street... It was useless with the tires I had at the time.
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#17
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
i want to run 150 shot but i want to know whats the most important thing that i should upgrade. I have intake, exhaust, test pipes, plenum, one step colder plugs, zex nitrous kit and Utec. i want to know if i should work on the head or block? im thinking bottom is better to build if im going nitrous but what should i do first? thanks.
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jkstar what did you have done to your motor on 175? and why did you go back down to 150? and yes i was thinking about doing the block. 3hree5ive0ero thanks for your support, you saved me the time on typing. Ill be ordering pistons, rings, rods, and head studs within 2 weeks and ill have to wait another month if i want to buy cams and springs.
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The reason he backed it down was because it's too big a shot for a wet kit.
It doesn't mix properly so it can cause lean conditions in one cylinder while the others could be rich.
Anything over a 150 shot should be direct ported.
It doesn't mix properly so it can cause lean conditions in one cylinder while the others could be rich.
Anything over a 150 shot should be direct ported.