Is it a necessity to have EM when running NOS? I want to install my nitrous kit already, but all i have is a progressive controller and the Wet Kit itself. I am afraid that if i have it installed before the EM, i might just want to sample it and blow my engine.

So basically, Would it be safe to run a 75 shot without any Engine Management? Assuming that i have the bottle warmer, progressive controller, and only used when between 3000 and 6800 rpms at WOT. Does anyone in here run their nitrous without any EM? Will my ECU throw codes? I will eventually get UTEC and step up to 100shot, but i just want to install the kit since i just have it sitting here.

*I have read most of the threads in this section, and these are my only questions that i needed direct answers. Thanks in advance

06 base Z Engine mods:
intake, test pipes, y pipe, catback exhaust, STOCK CLUTCH.

 

Yes, you can run a 75-shot without any EM or timing adjust.
Some people claim to use as much as a 100-shot without anything.
But I think it all depends on if it is a 100bhp or 100rwp shot, and that depends on the kit you use.

I was running a ZEX 75rwp shot without anything but the window switch and it was fine.
I have a 2006 Touring, now with a UTEC, and it never threw codes due to the NOS, before or after the addition of the UTEC.

My opinion is for 100-shot and up, you must have some sort of EM and a professional tune to utilize it.

Hope that helps.

 

I'd say it's iffey.
At the very leastI'd set the progressive control for at least 1 second before reaching full flow (not pulsed) condition to soften the torque spike.

 

the instant torque will be hard on your stock clutch, if you raise the rpm to 3500 or 4000 it wont be as hard on it. as far as an ems goes i always think safety first and something like a utec is the safest way to go.

 

100 shot no safety bs installed, no problems no engine knock.
150 shot no safety bs installed, no problems no engine knock.

07 ent

 

im glad you have had good luck with your nos set up i hope it continues for you. besides safety the propper ems will also allow you to control the system through one unit and pull a little more power out of your system so its not all "bs"

 

 

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hahahah !! 150 wet kit ? thats what I called pushing it !

what are your mods ?

 

What kit do you have? What are your jet sizes? What is your bottle pressure when you spray? How do you know for sure that your timing shouldn't be retarded and that you aren't living extremely close to the edge?

BTW, because his Z has the HR motor, this may be the reason why he's able to spray up to his claimed 150 shot. They are supposed to be stronger than the DE engines.

 

thats what i was trying to say but you did a much better job then i did

 

75 is fine without an ems...a/f are pretty close and timing is fine. I wouldn't start messing with EMS until you step up to 100 shot. Plenty of ppl here run 100 shot without an EMS for a long time as well. It just depends on how careful you want to be. I think the best investment for a mild shot would be the window switch.

stock clutch lets loose around 350 ft/lbs of torque, so yours will be fine for a while. Have money set aside though, just in case you get trigger happy and go through 10-15 bottles in a couple weeks. lol.

 

Dynotune 350z 07/08 wet kit. Two spray jets so running 75 shot each side for 150 or 50 each side for 100 shot. Bottle pressure is pretty high i would assume since its been 103 past few days. I do not usually drive with A/C on. Bottle stays in the house till im ready to play with it, then it sits in in car for about 6 hours. As far as should the engine timing be retarded, probally, but i cant do it and have not seen colder plugs for sale. 2 previous cars i ran dry 75 shots on never did any of that and plugs always had normal wear on em.

In houston i can run my 150 shot since 93 octane is availible at most every gas station. Up here in texas panhandle where im working right now its only 90 octane and i dont play with the nitrous up here much at all. I leave the 150 shot fuel nozzles in when spraying 100 up here.

Only problem I have had to date with this dyno tune kit is the pretapped fuel line leaking around the fitting, tried teflone, black silicone high heat, permatex, still leaks.

Kit is hooked up as per directions with a few deviations, no throttle wide open safety switch, jets maybe 2 inches away from throttle bodies rather then six inches away. Dynotune doesnt send enough length in the braided hoses for 6 inches away(at least the way i found to hook it up) but the guy at dynotune said it would be alright. This kit is set up with just an arming switch and push button to activate solenoids.

Side note: I have noticed alot of the fear mongering on this site is done by people who have thier car tuned or parts installed by shops. So I will take a wild stab in the dark and guess these same people don't know **** about cars other then what they read on forums. I do all my installs and work myself so i can tell if something isn't right with the engine. For those of you who are not mechanically inclined go ahead and buy all the safety bs, do not be surprised though after all that money that you still find a way to blow your **** up though.

Best advice i can give is learn your car at least enough to get an idea of how it should run, sound, throttle response, ect. Once ya get the feel for the engine, try spraying a lower shot like 75 real fast ( like 2-3 Seconds) see how the car reacts during and after the shot. Pay attention the next day when driving it, does it feel ok? Is it sluggish? Is it making odd noises like pinging or knocking?

 

What are the jet sizes for each side? I know you said 75 shot, but that's not a size. And according to another thread regarding ZEX's new nitrous kit for the dual throttle bodied 350Zs, 75 shot x 2 (1 for each side) doesn't equate to 150, as it would mathematically. See the nitrous subforum if you want to read up more about it. With that in mind, you should be open to the idea of not actually spraying the theoretically-correct 150 shot. If you want to actually measure with accuracy, you should put your car on a dyno.

Also, you can leave your bottle in the car, as most likely it's not going to bring your bottle pressure high enough to cause an explosion, break the seal (for blowdown tubes), etc. There's no need to do the extra work of constantly moving the bottle, which also causes premature wear on the nitrous line fittings (aluminum ends).

Just because you use a much bigger fuel shot, it doesn't mean it's the best way of preventing damage to engine components. Overcompensating for the nitrous lean phenomena isn't a bad idea, but overdoing it only causes your car to run richer than it needs. In other words, you're fouling up the plugs, dumping extra fuel (combustion is affected), etc.

The Dynotune's standard nitrous solenoids are pretty bad, I think. They leak at the solenoids brand new. Apparently, according to a friend, it doesn't leak with the use of loc-tite, but I'm not exactly welcoming of the idea. Tape teflon works better than the liquid teflon (which is recommended for proper solenoid shut off), but does nothing to prevent the leak.

Apparently, the distance from the throttle body doesn't matter, according to the most reputable nitrous shops around DFW. So, I wouldn't worry about that (and you don't seem to be).

And before you go around accusing people of their lack of knowledge, I'd be a bit more careful. You may have experience, but many others here have much more than you, and more with less. No need to be condescending.

Lastly, spraying for 2-3 seconds isn't going to do anything. Unless you're ridiculously lean, for an example, it will have no readily detectible symptoms. And as far as how it reacts, you think you can figure how exactly how your car responds to the corresponding nitrous shot, and at varying engine speeds (answer is no).

 

Hmmm,
Lets see. I am currently and have been in automotive for over 20 years, including ASE certified.
I own a 10.5sec 1/4-mile, naturally aspirated, full bodied Chevelle that I built.
I'm working on a 1994 Twin Turbo Supra that my Bro and I are shooting for 800+rwp.
And I pit crew for a top fuel (nitro) dragster here in the Northwest.
I put nitrous on my 350Z because I wanted to toy with it for the first time, but I have consulted with professionals that deal with it all the time to be sure it is done correctly.
And I've posted questions in here to get others opinions.

Recommending the safest route for any type of engine build is not BS.
If someone takes your advice and puts a 150hp shot on with no precautions, then blows the motor at 100+ mph, they're not only loosing a motor, they're chancing loosing their lives.

Too much safety and precaution is never enough!!!

 

still using stock platinum plugs and stock timing? Not too smart with a 150 shot. Every car is not created equal with nitrous...dry kits on one car maybe good, but never on imports. I realize you are probably using a wet kit now, but had you done your research on the Z, you would have found out they make a fuel tap specificly for the Z so you dont have to use the sh*tty fuel tap that came with your kit. I figured since you are mechanically inclined and do all your own installs, you would know this. lol.