Bwen

I was going to go STS turbo but due to the economy I decided it was a little excessive.

A friend has a Holly Nitrous kit that I bought off him for 200 with a full 10 lb bottle! Basic kit with the gas pedal WOT switch!


I have a pretty heavy foot so I am thinking that I would like to get the 4.08 final drive instead of the utec since I'm going to only be spraying a 100 shot!

-Going to get window switch 3800-6200 non-revup 6700 max rev
-Air/fuel guage Jet for 11.4/1
-1 Step colder plugs

Would you guys recomend this or should I just do the gears and wait till I get money for utec to spray? Also with utec on non revup do you guys spray to 6800 or so when you up the max rpm?

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

I hope your going to be running slicks all the time becasue your never going to get traction ever again on street tires with 4.08 gears and a 100shot. Leave the gears alone and invest in more nitrous gear. Your going to need some sort of tune to get your AF right, Uprev/Osiris or Utec.

JK_HRZ

iTrader: (1)

Oh man when I saw the thread title, I thought you had already got the final drive gear installed with nitrous, that would have been catastrophic.

I'm spraying a 125 crank shot on my HR and second gear is almost as close as useless, you will only get traction on a very hot day out. Leave the gear's, their fine. You'll pull nasty on other cars in your 3rd gear, and once you shift 4th your gone.

Do NOT get the 4.08 final drive gear if you plan on spraying nitrous, you are going to be going through your gear's very fast, your also going to be hitting redline alot more as well since the gears are so short.

You should definately get the UTEC first so you can tune / retard timing off of that and if you HAVE to get a final drive, then I'd recommend a 3.7, but that's not much of a difference vs. stock.

You should buy the UTEC and more nitrous applications

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

You should consider staying with the 3.5 FD if you're planning on spraying.

When you're on the juice, your RPMs will shoot up much faster than you'd think and a shorter FD will only make things shorter. Basically, you'll accelerate faster, but you'll also get out of the optimum rev range. That pretty much renders your nitrous useless (as you'll be wasting them on short gears and you don't want/can't spray in upper gears), not to mention a slightly more difficult time in getting traction with street tires.


My recommendation:
-Stay N/A and go with 4.08 (or similar) FD
-Get nitrous, stay with stock FD, get a tune for up to a 150 shot.

Bwen

Ok thanks everyone.

I am currently looking for a used utec now! Will just get all the safety features!


Thanks

Bwen

Just bought a Utec! Thanks for the advice guys!

JK_HRZ

iTrader: (1)

Good luck

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

I'm glad you took my (and others') advice. You'll thank us in the long run.

With such short gearing like the 4.08FD provides you, the 1st gear is already too short and the others will go by quickly. If you add nitrous on top of that, you can wave goodbye to your lower gears and traction. Plus, as a rule of thumb, you don't want to spray nitrous in the upper gears (5th, 6th) as you'll be putting a lot of strain on your motor in those gears.

Anyway, once you receive all the parts, be sure to get a tune ASAP. No reason to put off tuning whatsoever if you have it. It's much safer and will provide more power. I suggest you find a good nitrous tuning shop that will retard timing properly and make sure you get good power and solid AFR.

As for your jets, that's a horrible idea. I guarantee you that with such strict (read: pre-set) jet sizes, you won't get the "advertised" power or AFR. You ALWAYS want a wide variety of shot sizes so that you can adjust AFR (1st) and power (2nd) with those, then fine tune with a good tune. If I were you, get a few jets both up and down from your selected jets before you even think about spraying or getting a tune. Trust me. For me, I have pretty much dead-on AFR without a tune, and that was all done through spraying a small shot, seeing the car reacted to it. Then I over-compensated for any lean-outs and added more fuel when I went to a 75 whp shot. When I got that dyno'd I saw that my AFR was actually dead on with the bigger-than-recommended fuel shot. I did the same with the 100 whp shot. I didn't get to play with any jet sizes since I luckily guessed all jet sizes with some logic and safety in mind. However, don't expect that to happen to you, which is why tuning is crucial. Plus, you can go up to a 150 whp shot with a good tune.

For your spark plugs, NGK LFR6A-11 is what you want. They're 1 step colder plugs in copper. Copper will not last as long, but you'll benefit from this metal than the others like iridium or platinum tips with nitrous.

Your AFR should be in the 11s, not 12s. Because you have the ability to adjust timing with more accuracy, you want to shoot for 11 flat for safety. I think you make a bit more power if you lean it out, but as you should know by now, lean conditions with nitrous is a big no-no.

Your spray window is pretty good. I wouldn't go under 3500 as a safety precaution. However, you can (well, I do) go a bit higher on the top end to maybe 6300 or 6400. However, keep in mind that with UTEC you can bump up your rev limiter so technically you can rev and also spray into your redline. I won't go into further details on this, as that'll be too long, but use common sense and do at least a few hours of reading on just this topic alone to find what you need.

Let me know (open to everybody) if you have any more questions.

Chris

Bwen

I found some spark plugs but the gapping isnt correct... Anyone have a website with the correct gapping?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=NGK-3672


So lets say if I was going to do the 100 shot I want
47N
24-25-26-27-28 Fuel


That should be somewhat good for fine tuning the Air/fuel?
Then the tuner can do the rest on the dyno

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

If you get the NGK LFR6A-11, which you linked, they should already be pre-gapped. If not, then just get a gap measuring thing (I don't know the name) from your local auto part store and gap them yourself. They're real cheap ($1 USD) and requires like 3 seconds to do.

My 75 whp fuel shot was a 32 and 100 whp fuel shot was a 42. See what I mean when I say that the recommended shot sizes don't really mean much?

Bwen

Yes Sir! Will buy a wide range of jets!

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention. Back when I was looking into getting a UTEC, I read that the latest version will not function properly with nitrous solenoids or something. You need a version before that one to make things work. I forgot all the details so you'll have to research this on your own (and hopefully share for others to see). Just forewarning you.

Bwen

I read that also somewhere on these forums! I cannot find the thread again. I emailed Jermaine from TurboXS with my concerns and he emailed me "version 2.7" I will try 2.8 first and if it doesnt work I will try 2.7 and let you guys know! Still waiting for utec to get here

Bwen

Found the thread! Seems like you need to use version 2.6 here is the link

https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...rous-help.html

chefrey

iTrader: (20)

you can actually use the newest version of the utec but you have to buy a map sensor in order for the spare solenoid to fire because manifold pressure is on of the required fail safes and without the sensor you can not get a propper reading to the utec. i know because im the one that figured this whole set up out with not much help from turbo xs i might add.

jeff

Bwen

Sweet! I actually have a map sensor! I will give that a try when I go to shop!

Bwen

Should have Kit this week! Will post pics when I get kit installed! Also dyno numbers next week if kit gets here soon!

CTZ860

iTrader: (2)

Kind resurrecting dead thread here but if one were running 4.08 FD would it be ok to spray in 5th or 6th or say "safer" than sprayin in those gears compared to the 3.5 FD?

John1006

iTrader: (1)

I believe the reason you don't want to spray in 5th or 6th is because it puts way more stress on the motor. It shouldn't matter what the FD is. Same stress on the motor. If I'm wrong someone correct me.

juicinjake

iTrader: (6)

im also rehashing this, but on a different basis. now that micket thompson has a 305/30/19 et street radial 2... would anyone reconsider running this combination (4.083 and 100 shot)? i had a 4.10 rear and 150 shot in my 98 cobra and it was a blast. this was on a 315 DR. i thought about going the same route on the g, however i totally agree with everyone that said you would be tractionless... with normal street tires. the tire i listed above is definately not a normal street tire and has a solid 10.5" tread. i think it could hook it and make this combo worthwhile... what are your thoughts my350z?