TheGreatBear

Hey all,

I've been reading some of these nitrous threads and it looks like I'm in the right place. I have pretty much bought most of the bolt-ons you can get for the FX35, which shares the Vq35de with the 350z 03-05. Instead of looking at pricey (8000-10000) Turbo and supercharged setups, my attention was directed to Nitrous oxide.

I want to run a safe setup, maybe 50-75 shot. However, I know nothing about Nitrous besides it makes you go faster by introducing more oxygen into the combustion chambers (and fuel if you have a good kit) resulting in a good amount of power....which also makes it dangerous...
I know you can install an rpm window switch, and that 2500-6500 is a pretty safe window. Since the FX is an auto, though, I always use the Manumatic manual shifting mode, would this be a problem with a nitrous setup?
Would the best idea be to tap into my Throttle body (I already have a spacer installed there) and run a wet setup?
The only place I could hide the tank is where the spare is....

Can you nitrous heads held me out? In the meantime, I'll be searching around. looks like the ZEX and dynotune are popular vq35 seups....
Im looking to spend around $1000 for the setup, making it as safe as possible. My motor has 78000 miles on it, and last time I hit the dyno a few mods ago I got 240 AWHP on a dyno dynamics (reads low?) dyno, so I guess I'm shooting for just under 300AWHP with a 55 shot?

Current mods that may effect this nitrous:
STILLEN z-tube intake w/ k&n filter
Lightweight crank Pulley - Unorthodox Racing
5/16" plenum spacer - MOTORDYNE engineering
throttle Body spacer
TECHNOSQUARE tuned ECU
NISMOs-tune cat-back exhaust
Kinetix HFC
Kakumei ypipe


Help a fellow VQ driver out.,..thanks
Im using my bro's account to post because im too lazy to make my own account...he has a Z

BakaN20

iTrader: (26)

If you haven't already, read up on in these thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...irst-time.html

https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...rous-post.html

As for the manumatic, I am not sure how that is going to work out. For the dynotune, one way it shuts off the nitrous between shifts is based on WOT voltage, so when you let off the throttle, the voltage is no longer in the correct parameter, so it shuts off the nitrous in between shifts. With the manual mode, you can just keep flooring it while shifting gears correct? I am not sure how bad that is on the transmission or engine to continuously spray, so I won't say anything and let members more experienced answer that. What you can do though, if it is bad, is to lift off when you change gears to change that voltage to allow the nitrous to shut off.

As for the shot, it depends on the kit, some kits rate their shots at the crank, others at the wheels. I believe that dynotune rates theirs at the crank, I believe I read that from them in a post they made on ls1tech, so you will still need a 75 shot if you want to make your goal.

You definitely want to run a wet set up. As for tapping the throttle body spacer, its really up to you. If it is easier, then do it that way, if it is easier to mount in your intake tube, then do it that way.

As long as you respect the nitrous and be smart about it, it is a very safe alternative to other mods, especially considering you still have the drive-ability of NA whenever you want and the power of FI when you want.

hellsoldiers08

iTrader: (3)

if i remember correctly that technosquare isnt doing tuning no more. So you may need to get another tuning software after you get your Nos system.

TheGreatBear

Yeah I understand. I read on 350z tech that A/T was actually preferred by ZEX because with the window programming it is somehow betteR? or maybe I misinterpreted.... I'll have to see which kits are rated where and which use which WOT reader and window rpm reader, etc.... I'll check out those threads.


Yeah I just heard about that....it sucks because I was about to send it back to them to flash it......hopefully they didnt lock me out of it. Will I be okay using a standalone for the Nos in conjunction with the technosquare, or should I try and get a whole new piggyback that can incorporate the Nitrous?




Before I do the NoS I'm going to do an oil catch can and transgo shift kit, Because Im sure the NoS pressures on the tranny will call for a little build up on it..... hopefully some more people with A/t experience can chime in... in the meantime I'll do some more looking aroundd
Ill deff respect the NoS and be using it sparingly...mostly those nights where you need to shut someone up, or when i actually get to Etown one of these days....

hellsoldiers08

iTrader: (3)

just go with uprev tuner. no need for a piggy back i think.

TheGreatBear

"I think" doesnt cut it hahah hopefully super experienced guys will chime in..... enough NAWSSS research for one night......2 am and class at 8......

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

I'll be terse..

-Which kit you choose is dependent on your preference and budget
-Spray above 3500, not 2500
-No problem using nitrous with manual gear changes on A/T; just make sure you set the window right
-You can tap at the TB spacer, but it's too close to the neck/bend in the plenum so I personally wouldn't
-Wet kit only on the Z
-Hide the bottle where you want, but be mindful of the length of the lines
-TechnoSquare is no longer tuning; look for alternatives
----N/A tunes and nitrous don't mix anyway (you advance timing with N/A, retard timing with nitrous)
-Shot sizes differ from brand to brand; consult dyno for actual power increase

SSNOS

iTrader: (9)

I concur with everything that 3hree5ive0ero said.

I'm not a big fan of shifting it manually as you never want to hit your rev limiter while spraying. But if the window switch is set correctly then you should be fine. The AT shifts pretty dang fast anyways.

Get a drive by wire kit and use a window switch. I just like the redundancy. That way you have to be in the right rpm range and you have to be wot.

Get a GMR tach pickup from autometer. It's about the easiest way to get a tach signal for the window switch.

I highly reccomend transgo. Especially for when you start playing with higher shots or the rpm window.

NO2 is safe if you play it smart.

TheGreatBear

Mhy budget depends on whats better for the setup as a whole. A TT/SC will cost me 8-10k either way, so even if this setup costs me 2k for ultimate safety and reliability, then I dont mind. realistically, I want to spend around 1k.
Okay, So 3500-6k, is that a better window? Theres no rev limiter so nothing to hit and its AT so no gears to miss technically. Would you recommend tapping in the Ztube after the MAF instead of the Plenum spacer then? I know some kits actually come with a plenum spacer as the tap-in. I'm planning wet kit on my FX either way, Ive just read they are safer and better. Unfortunately, My bottle will probably end up being in the spare tire cubby in the trunk I really have nowhere else to Hide it, hopefully the lines arent too long and cause an issue.
Which tuning software would you guys recommend? would it be a bad idea to have the tuned technosquare ECU AND a separate tuner for this application? Should I get my ECU reflashed and Just use a haltech or another piggyback system for all my ECU tuning? Thanks guys, I have a limited knowledge of this stuff....

Also, you and I have pretty much spot on NA WHP numbers (250ish), so should I expect a similar if not the same HP gain that you got? Do you have a thread describing your build? Thanks!
Yeah, I have no rev limiter from the Technosquare tune, so there's nothing to hit, and its set to actually be WOT when you want it to be, none of that 90% nonsense. Transgo is deff a must either way.

SSNOS

iTrader: (9)

My system was around 1300 for everything, not counting the uprev tune. I reccomend uprev for a tune, they have always done me well.

NX Express drive by wire kit
Zex window switch
zex fuel rail adapter
GMR tack pickup
NOS intimidator dual purge

BTW, you dont have any rev limiter? So if you manually shift and keep it past redline, will it just shift up anyways?

3 k is a good start on the window. I've gone down to 2500 and NX express says you can go that low. Some guys shoot from the line via a manual pushbutton. When I went as low as 2500, I definitely felt alot of strain on the drivetrain.

NissanZ03

iTrader: (12)

I have a 5at 350z and I have alot of the same questions as you. From what I see, the dynotune kit seems very reasonably priced. I'm just not sure about the quality. I'm suprised more 5at guys haven't chimed in with some nitrous knowledge

TheGreatBear

That list looks good. In Manumatic, there is literally no limiter, If I leave it in first (hypothetically) and keep revving, it will keep going. i think the new limiter is like 8.75 maybe but obviously I would never go that high; they just told me they took the limiter off (which they did) but others say they just move it to the latest possible point....I dont want to sit there and rev out first to find out haha...
Ill probably do 32-3500 because Im AWD and dont want to stress it out. The transgo shift kit will help but Still want to be on the safe side..When I'm i WOT and really getting on it, I shift it a little after 7 (Spoke with technosquare and they said it is OK to do so, that they did high rev hold testing or something idk) But usually reserve to 5.5 on normal driving, 4ish around town, nothing stupid. I do love the sound when it revs up though
Does Uprev have a location for tuning or is it just a thing you order and get tuned? Im used to FX "rules" for tuning which are "theres nothing" haha
Where did you go for a tune? I know Vinny at VTR but they really dont like nitrous so im not sure if they have much experience with it..... I would do some of the install myself but deff not the wiring and tuning (obviously)

Yeah Theyll chime in eventually, so far these guys have been a great help






Also, noob question, when you purge, what exactly are you purging? does it need to be mounted closer to the solenoids or closer to the tank? Is it incredibly visible with a 50 or 75 shot? thanks. I'll look of vids online to see if I can find a 50-75 shot purge is this accurate :"A purge kit's job is to get liquid nitrous oxide up to the front of the nitrous line in the engine bay and to rid (purge) the line of any gas or air. Remember, the nitrous feed line is 16 feet long... and you want nitrous oxide at the end of it.
Nitrous Purge kits use an additional solenoid up front and a 'purge' push button on the dashboard to energise it.

When you push the button the purge solenoid opens allowing nitrous oxide to rush down the line and flush it out.

This 'purge' then exits through a purge nozzle (or two in my case) mounted outside the car. As it leaves the nozzle it creates a plume of nitrous oxide and makes a loud whoosh!" (taken from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1_CADUS91c)

and do you need to use two....and is it always that visible? I think its a little much, but it may be sinister to put them sticking out of the front grill, so it looks like an angry bull's breath or something:
Like this:

Like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhyv2OWO_sM
But my lower Grille.......
Thats getting ahead of myself though.....haha I need the kit before I can think of purging...so back to that

zaperroni

iTrader: (17)

you don't necessarily need a dual purge system. and did you want it for looks or performance benefits?
I would put the purge somewhere you could see it, to make sure it is purging.

SSNOS

iTrader: (9)

Purging helps get nitrous up to the motor from the tank so that your spraying 100% nitrous right away. A dual is not necessary. Mount the purge solenoid right before the NO2 solenoid. The purge outlet should not vent anywhere directly in front of the driver.

Uprev is in TX, but most just purchase the laptop software and then do E-tunes. You would record a log while driving and email them the data. They in turn create custom maps for you.

I checked their website and dont see anything for FXs, so IDK if you can use the 350z product or not. Give them a call.

TheGreatBear

for performance, So it makes sense it it somewhere I can see it...I guess I can use one of the vent by the wipers that would make more sense.

Hmm i should call them then. If they have z's and g35 AWDs, they should be able to do FX's...its the same motor haha

SSNOS

iTrader: (9)

Yeah maybe you can be a test pilot and they might give you a break on the purchase.

I would imagine the logging part is not the problem as it's just an obdII based software.

TheGreatBear

haha maybe...but wouldnt that mean I need to be near them?
I dotn see why the engine management on the same motor would be that much different....but Im no tuner.

hellsoldiers08

iTrader: (3)

If you getting no2 i would do a dyno tune and not a e-tune(which i think they will not do sense you need more feel for tuning turbo/sc/no2). yes they do FX. when i first got my car tune at uprev(home location, austin) they had a fx with a turbo. Also see uprev tune :0) i think, was i think im right lol.

TheGreatBear

yeah I just spoke to Vinny Ten racing, who I am "friends" with, and they said thye can do something for me....

Theyll also be doing my tranny stuff and what not, I like the guys there.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Start a 3.5K; there's no need to go lower and it only increases the chance of you breaking things.

Plenum spacer is different than a throttle body spacer. You tap between your MAF and TB, usually less than 12" away from the TB.

Tune with whatever you can afford and whatever your tuner is comfortable with. UTEC, UpRev, Cobb, E-Manage are all within your budget.

Again, N/A tunes and nitrous don't mix, so ditch the TS reflash and get something else for N/A and nitrous tunes. If I have to explain this any further, then you shouldn't be messing with nitrous.

Dyno numbers don't mean jack. Dynos are tools for tuning and getting a relatively percentage increase/decrease. They're not accurate measuring tools. My nitrous numbers are all messed up for multiple reasons, so ignore them.

If you want to see my nitrous thread, here it is:
https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...-play-too.html

^This. You purge to clear the line of non-nitrous oxide gasses.